The pandemic is devastating the restaurant industry, so why does Michelin still seem fixated on awarding stars?

In nearly every upscale kitchen, chefs will tell you that the ultimate goal in their career is to earn a Michelin star.

Since its inception in 1926 in France and its expansion worldwide, the Michelin star has come to symbolize the highest achievement in culinary arts, while also boosting the reputation of the Michelin tire company.

While not every chef is driven to earn Michelin stars – some have even returned their awards – it remains the most powerful symbol of success in the industry.

However, the global hospitality sector is facing a massive crisis, with thousands of restaurants closing, countless jobs lost, and many dreams destroyed in the process.

This year, as always, Michelin continues to grant and revoke stars, while publishing its meticulous reviews of top-tier restaurants.

Some industry insiders believe Michelin's actions are misguided, arguing that continuing to award stars in an era when many restaurant workers are speaking out about the intense pressures of meeting such exacting standards is misguided.

As the pandemic persists, Michelin’s unwavering commitment to publishing its guides may soon collide with the harsh realities brought on by the coronavirus crisis.

As always, the issue sparks intense debate, with strong opinions on both sides.

‘An uphill battle’

Other renowned awards have already decided to pause their activities, given the exceptional challenges posed by this year's circumstances.

Covid-19 played a key role in the cancellation of The James Beard Awards this year, particularly affecting the Restaurant and Chefs categories, which are seen as the gold standard of American culinary recognition.

Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the foundation, pointed to the severe impact of Covid-19 and explained that handing out awards in such times would not help the industry facing such a tough battle.

According to some, the struggles facing the restaurant industry go beyond the pandemic, touching on other pressing global issues.

David Kinch, the chef-owner of Manresa in California, publicly announced on Instagram that he would withdraw from consideration for the James Beard Outstanding Chef award.

He highlighted the rampant gender and racial disparities within the hospitality industry, as well as the numerous barriers preventing restaurateurs from paying living wages, prioritizing sustainability, and creating positive work cultures.

Given the dire state of the restaurant sector, why does Michelin continue to visit restaurants, inspect them, and grant stars? And in these uncertain times, do the stars still hold the same level of prestige they once did?

Michelin's international director, Gwendal Poullennec, maintains that the role of Michelin’s inspectors is more important than ever. He believes their critical perspective is a force for good that can help lift the struggling industry.

The guide’s upcoming selections, according to Poullennec, aim to highlight the industry and restaurants still grappling with the ongoing effects of the crisis in various parts of the world.

It also serves as an invitation for food enthusiasts to return to dining out.

Culinary heartbeat

Whether food lovers will still be eager to dine out is uncertain. Many Michelin-starred restaurants, especially those with two or three stars, rely heavily on international guests who are now missing due to global travel restrictions.

In London, two-starred restaurants The Ledbury and The Greenhouse have permanently closed their doors. In New York, Gotham Bar & Grill, Jewel Bako, and Nix, all Michelin-starred, have shut down as well, alongside Trois Mecs and Somni from Chef José Andrés in Los Angeles.

There are numerous other closures, especially in the United States, where strict lockdowns in cities like New York, Chicago, Washington D.C., and California hit key areas known for Michelin awards.

As a result, the release of the 2021 Michelin Guides in the U.S. has been postponed. The organization recently informed Food & Wine magazine that the timing will depend on the recovery from the pandemic.

Michelin’s California Guide has reportedly paused its 2020 edition, citing the challenges posed by Covid-19 and the recent wildfires.

In response, the dining guide has introduced what it calls an 'international barometer' to monitor which restaurants are still operating.

'Our goal was to gauge the state of global gastronomy to raise awareness about our ecosystem,' says Poullennec. He notes that as of now, the barometer indicates that 85% of Michelin-starred restaurants are open.

While this marks a significant improvement compared to the peak of the crisis – when only 13% of Michelin-starred restaurants worldwide were still in business – it doesn’t capture the full scope of permanent closures.

'At this point, the number of permanent closures is hard to quantify as the situation is fluid and changes daily,' adds Poullennec.

Michelin also highlights initiatives like 'Le Bon Menu' in France, which uses social media to support chefs assisting those in need and to spotlight restaurants that have adapted by offering takeaway, delivery, and other new business models.

Despite this, many chefs are calling for Michelin to do more to support businesses during these challenging times.

Under immense pressure to stay afloat

Shane Osborn, the Australian chef behind Hong Kong’s one Michelin-starred Arcane, is one of the city’s most respected culinary figures, with a history of Michelin success, including at London’s Pied à Terre.

Given the difficult realities facing many in the industry, he believes there should be a pause on restaurant reviews.

'It’s a tough situation, but I don’t think it’s the right time for Michelin to be evaluating restaurants while businesses are struggling to survive,' he says.

'With limited staff due to layoffs, employees stretched thin, and the supply chain for ingredients disrupted – especially here in Asia – we’ve seen a drastic reduction in deliveries. Normally, we get two shipments from Japan daily; now it's just three a week.'

'Businesses are under extreme pressure just to keep going, but I also understand that for most chefs, Michelin is a dream. It’s the ultimate validation for all the long hours and hard work they put in, often 16-hour days.'

'But is this really the time to celebrate? Awarding stars to restaurants where meals can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars, while people around the world are losing their jobs?'

Some chefs firmly believe that recognition is more crucial than ever in these challenging times.

Gal Ben-Moshe, the chef-owner of Prism in Berlin, recalls how his restaurant faced a severe booking slump when Germany entered lockdown earlier this year.

However, he says Michelin’s decision to award Prism a star quickly turned his situation around.

'When the star was announced, the restaurant filled up in just minutes, securing bookings for the next month,' he says. 'It was unbelievable.'

Yet, the impact was arguably more significant on a personal and professional level than it was financially:

'It gave us the recognition and motivation we had long been seeking, something we had yearned for over the years,' he adds. 'On a personal level, it has made us feel that all the sacrifices we’ve made in our personal lives have been worthwhile.'

A much-needed boost

When asked whether Michelin should continue awarding stars this year, Ben-Moshe supports the guide’s decision, asserting that it can still be a force for good. He believes Michelin’s critics are professional enough to consider the adaptations restaurants are making to navigate the current crisis.

'I can tell you that the impact it had on me as a chef and on the restaurant as a business has been extraordinary,' he says. 'I can only imagine how receiving a star during such uncertain times could truly save businesses and give the entire industry a much-needed boost and renewed relevance.'

Steve Zagor, an adjunct professor at Columbia Business School specializing in restaurants and food businesses, acknowledges that while the Michelin guide is still relevant in normal times, it may face challenges now.

'Michelin is like a religion; people follow it religiously,' he says. 'It’s trusted. In today’s world, we need credible opinions, not just reviews from platforms like Yelp. Michelin offers a knowledgeable, reliable resource for those deciding where to dine.'

'From that standpoint, it holds value. It has a rich history and serves as a respected authority on what’s worth experiencing.'

However, he notes that the exceptional circumstances of 2020 make this far from a typical environment for Michelin.

'Right now, it’s like trying to review restaurants on a ship caught in a hurricane. It’s an exceptional situation. I don’t believe you’re getting a true reflection of what the restaurant owner is attempting to accomplish.'

He points out that the dining experience today is so drastically different from what it used to be, raising doubts about whether Michelin can still apply the same inspection standards as before.

'You can’t compare it year-to-year; this is nothing like 2017 or 2018. Social distancing has changed menus, preparation methods, and restaurant capacities.'

'The dining experience is different, and with so much else going on, most restaurant owners are just focused on staying afloat and doing the best they can. I believe this is diluting the whole Michelin experience.'

History and Tradition

Vicky Lau, the chef at Tate Dining Room in Hong Kong, a Michelin-starred restaurant since 2012 known for its fusion of Chinese and French cuisine, believes Michelin provides a crucial sense of stability in these uncertain times.

'I think Michelin’s role is more important than ever, to support restaurants, sustain tourism, and ultimately help revive the industry when things return to normal,' she says.

'It still holds a significant place in chefs’ hearts, helping preserve a culinary language that represents history and culture.'

Dinogo contacted several renowned chefs from countries like France and the United States to share their views on the Michelin debate, but they chose not to respond.

Michelin’s decision to continue rigorously assessing the fine dining scene is likely driven, at least in part, by commercial considerations, particularly the partnerships it holds with tourism boards and private companies for its guides.

When asked about this, Michelin emphasized that its core purpose remains rooted in independence, with its anonymous inspectors focused on recommending the best culinary experiences for 'international food lovers.'

'Undoubtedly, this exceptional year has required our inspectors to adjust their approach and editorial work,' Michelin explained.

'In some locations, the release of their selections had to be postponed to allow for thorough and fair evaluations, but in every destination, they have done their utmost to ensure consistent and relevant restaurant recommendations.'

Some Michelin guides for this year, such as those for Taiwan and Slovenia, have already been released. When the others are unveiled, one thing is certain: Just like when the star ratings were first introduced in 1926, they will continue to spark conversation and controversy.