The Tale of a 'Tail: The Pisco Sour

Chile and Peru were once allies, both sharing the long stretch of South America's western coastline. In fact, Chile played a role in helping its northern neighbor secure independence from Spain in the early 1800s.

However, since the bitter War of the Pacific in 1879, tensions between the two nations have escalated, from border disputes to soccer rivalries, and, most passionately of all, the question of who truly invented pisco and its signature cocktail, the pisco sour.

Many historians argue that pisco, an unaged brandy made from grapes, was first produced in Peru, a claim strengthened by the European Commission's 2013 ruling that granted Peru the exclusive geographical rights to the spirit.

But that ruling has done little to end the ongoing debate between the two countries.

Last year, Pablo Lacoste, a professor at the University of Santiago de Chile, along with a team of colleagues, released a report claiming that Chile was the first to establish commercial trademarks and legal recognition for pisco. He also contends that the evidence presented by Peru is either flawed or misinterpreted.

Taking sides in this ongoing dispute can lead to heated arguments between the two nations.

At the heart of this passionate disagreement is more than just the economic advantages enjoyed by the country that can claim pisco's origin—something the Champagne producers of France know well—but also a matter of national pride and identity.

Pisco, according to Lacoste, is 'like a treasure map that reveals the depths of history,' a link that runs deep through generations.

For both Peruvians and Chileans, pisco is often tied to some of their earliest family and cultural memories. Lacoste’s own connection to the spirit began at 18 when he visited Chile from Argentina and enjoyed piscolas – a popular cocktail at the time – on the sun-drenched beaches of Viña del Mar.

For Peruvian chef and pisco aficionado Nico Vera, the first taste of the spirit came at an unusually young age. At around 12 years old, he mistakenly grabbed a glass of pisco sour his father had mixed on a hot summer day, thinking it was lemonade.

'I poured myself a big glass and gulped it down,' Vera recalls. 'It was unforgettable: full of flavor, bold, with a real punch. It's been a nostalgic favorite ever since.'

The history of the cocktail

It’s hardly a surprise that the origins of the pisco sour – a simple mix of pisco, citrus, and sweetener – have sparked debate between Peru and Chile.

For a time, a theory circulated claiming the pisco sour was first created in Iquique, Chile, in 1872 by a British man named Elliot Stubb. This theory has since been largely debunked, most notably by author Guillermo Toro-Lira.

Lacoste, however, points to a book from 1822, which he argues makes mention of a Chilean version of the pisco sour.

Most versions of the pisco sour's story trace back to American expat Victor V. Morris, whose popular bar in Lima, Morris Bar (opened in 1916), was the first place to publicly reference the cocktail in the 1920s.

The drink was further perfected by employees who later moved on to other bars in the city. Over time, it evolved into the classic version we know today: perfectly balanced, frothy with egg whites, and topped with bitters.

However, even this narrative has been challenged with the recent discovery of a 1903 Peruvian cookbook containing a recipe for a cocktail that closely resembles what we now know as an egg-white pisco sour. It's uncertain whether Morris might have come across this recipe or if he created the drink himself as a twist on the whiskey sour.

With all the ongoing disputes over both the spirit and the cocktail, it’s easy to forget that the pisco and pisco sour take on different forms in Peru and Chile.

The two nations have distinct regulations governing the distillation of grapes for pisco, leading to sometimes drastically different flavor profiles between the two.

In Peru, the traditional pisco sour is made with lime juice, egg whites, and bitters, whereas the Chilean version typically omits the egg whites and bitters, opting instead for lemon juice.

Katherine Hidalgo, owner of Chipe Libre, the most respected pisco bar in Santiago, Chile, believes the debate is ultimately unproductive. She offers a selection of pisco brands from both countries on her menu.

“People keep expending time, energy, and resources debating the ‘true origin’ of pisco, yet the world still doesn’t fully understand it. In the end, no one benefits from this. Everyone loses.”

Her advice? Let go of the arguments and focus on helping people fall in love with pisco, no matter where it comes from.”

A classic pisco sour is often an instant favorite. It’s smooth and rich yet light, with the sharp zing of lime enhancing the pisco’s deep, fruity notes. It’s the perfect pre-meal drink and pairs especially well with ceviche.

Follow this traditional recipe and use it to fuel the never-ending debates that might unfold at your next family gathering.

Pisco sour recipe

3 oz of pisco

1 oz of simple syrup

1 oz of freshly squeezed lime juice

1 egg white for frothiness

A dash of Angostura bitters

Ice cubes

Add pisco, syrup, lime juice, and egg white to a shaker, then shake it hard for 10 seconds. Open the shaker, add ice, and shake again for 8-10 seconds. Strain the mixture into a coupe or rocks glass, then garnish with a few dashes or drops of bitters on top.