The Ultimate Fried Dough Delight: Sopaipilla from New Mexico

Almost every culinary tradition features some form of flatbread or fried dough, but the sopaipilla stands out as a fluffy treasure of New Mexican cuisine. I was born in Grand Junction, Colorado, located in the Western Slope area, where both Colorado and New Mexico share a rich tapestry of Spanish, Hispano, and Native American culinary influences. Sopaipillas (or sopapillas) were a staple for me, often served with honey next to meals at local New Mexican Mytouries, until we moved to Phoenix, where Mexican cuisine took precedence.

Sopaipas, pieces of dough fried in olive oil, trace their origins to southern Spain, particularly within Moorish communities. The New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs notes that Moorish settlers escaping persecution were among the Spanish who settled in New Mexico in the late 16th century. In the 1860s, during the forced relocation of Navajos and Mescalero Apaches to the Bosque Redondo reservation in eastern New Mexico, these tribes adopted sopaipas as a means to stretch their limited food supplies; the basic mixture of flour, baking soda, salt, and fat could be fried conveniently. This process is akin to the creation of Navajo frybread, which also originated from the hardships of the Long Walk and can be found in New Mexico. While it’s unclear when the two recipes diverged, the preparation of sopaipillas today, resulting in large, puffed pieces, distinguishes them as unique.

Sopaipillas, with their delightful simplicity and versatility, are enjoyed in various forms in New Mexican cuisine today, ranging from those filled with carne adovada to sliders that use sopaipillas as buns. After relocating to Arizona, I eagerly anticipated our annual road trips to Colorado, just for the chance to tear a corner off a soft, plain sopaipilla, drizzle honey inside to cover the airy center with sweetness, and indulge. It remains one of the best reasons to visit.

Defining what a sopaipilla is

Sopaipilla-style fried dough can be found throughout the Americas in countries with Spanish influences, such as Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay, but these usually end up flat, resembling tortillas; in contrast, New Mexican sopaipillas puff up like little clouds. Texas also lays claim to the sopaipilla, naming it the official state pastry from 2003 to 2005 to honor its significance in Tex-Mex cuisine, where they are often served as dessert, commonly coated in cinnamon and sugar, though honey or powdered sugar toppings are also popular.

Every sopaipilla recipe contains some leavening agent, but the frying method is vital; the water in the dough rapidly transforms into steam, causing the characteristic puff. Just like tortillas or biscuits, there’s no single way to prepare sopaipillas, and recipes can vary widely. “It’s always a bit of a guess; we don’t measure, we just know what to do,” explains David Sandoval of El Patio de Albuquerque, who has crafted sopaipillas for 47 years.

Typically, sopaipilla recipes do not include yeast, but Sandoval’s version adds it for a unique twist. “Our restaurant is the only one that makes sopaipillas our way — round, fluffy, and sweet,” he explains. “The secret is using vegetable oil, which gives them a light, puffy texture. Our recipe includes flour, yeast, and a hint of sugar; after mixing, they need to rise for at least an hour. We fry them at around 350 degrees and ensure they are golden brown before flipping.”

Chef Janet Malcom has dedicated 32 years to working at Rancho de Chimayó, where they use a straightforward mixed recipe that fries in two to three minutes. “To ensure the sopaipillas rise and cook perfectly, we find that 375 degrees isn’t sufficient for this area; we must increase it to 425,” Malcolm notes. “When we prepare a batch, we maintain about 400 on a tray; sometimes we produce five or six trays daily, as we often receive orders for 20 or even 60 for takeout.”

Dining customs and recommendations

In northern New Mexico, sopaipillas may be filled with savory ingredients and served as a main dish. Restaurants often stuff them with meats, typically ground beef, or sometimes New Mexican pork or carne adovada, along with refried beans or traditional pintos. These are then topped with a generous amount of melted cheese beneath a rich layer of red or green chile, or both (known as Christmas style).

In other regions, they often accompany other New Mexican dishes, frequently presented in baskets. Traditionally, sopaipillas serve as a substitute for tortillas, ideal for soaking up red or green chile or scooping up food. They are commonly paired with honey, which balances the chile's heat. However, don’t reserve them for dessert; as noted by Tomasita’s, one of the oldest restaurants in Santa Fe, only visitors from out of state tend to use sopaipillas to conclude a meal.

A point of contention among diners is how to enjoy sopaipillas with honey. The ongoing debate revolves around whether to drizzle honey on top or to tear off a corner and pour it inside. I grew up pouring honey inside, but according to Malcom, there’s no definitive method. 'It really comes down to personal preference,' she shares. 'Sometimes, the best approach is to melt butter, mix it with honey, and dip pieces of sopaipilla in it. That’s absolutely delightful.'

Where to find them

El Patio de Albuquerque

A beloved establishment since 1977, El Patio de Albuquerque features two locations that offer breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Their signature sopaipillas are served alongside a diverse menu of Southwestern and New Mexican delights. 142 Harvard Drive SE, Albuquerque, NM, 87106

Rancho de Chimayó

Situated about 30 minutes from Santa Fe, this renowned restaurant in northern New Mexico has been delighting guests with award-winning dishes for over 50 years. The venue also offers a hacienda with seven guest rooms for visitors, who can savor bite-sized sopaipillas rolled in cinnamon and sugar for breakfast. 300 Juan Medina Road, Chimayo, NM, 87522

Jerry’s Cafe

This cozy, unpretentious diner located off the historic Route 66 in Gallup is a favorite among locals and travelers alike, known for serving some of the finest New Mexican cuisine in the state. Most meals include sopaipillas, but for a true treat, try the stuffed sopaipilla drenched in green chile for an amazing flavor combination. 406 W Coal Avenue, Gallup, NM, 87301

Tomasita’s

For 40 years, this family-run restaurant has been delighting patrons with expertly prepared northern New Mexican dishes. Tomasita’s has also opened a location in Albuquerque, yet the quality of food and the accompanying sopaipillas remain unchanged. The menu prominently features the stuffed sopaipilla, a must-try for every diner. 500 S Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe, NM, 87501

Sadie’s of New Mexico

A beloved establishment in Albuquerque, Sadie’s has been delighting diners with New Mexican cuisine for over 60 years. Frequently recognized as a “Best Of” winner by the Albuquerque Journal, its locations serve a variety of regional classics. Don’t miss the sliders featuring sopaipillas as buns. 6230 Fourth Street NW Lot, Los Ranchos De Albuquerque, NM, 87107

Asonta Benetti is a freelance writer focusing on food, travel, and beverages, currently based in Phoenix, Arizona. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, AFAR, and VinePair.

Eric Burnside is an editorial photographer located in Los Alamos, New Mexico.