The ultimate journey through northern Alberta, Canada

When it comes to Canadian road trips, few rival Alberta’s Icefields Parkway that winds from Banff to Jasper amidst the majestic Rocky Mountains. However, it’s not the only adventure worth experiencing in Alberta.

This prairie province features a remarkable variety of landscapes – from badlands teeming with dinosaur fossils to lush boreal forests – along with a rich cultural history. Nowhere is this better exemplified than on a road trip through Alberta’s Ukrainian Bloc, just northeast of Edmonton. It’s the region where I grew up and a favorite destination for visitors, which inspired me to write about it for Dinogo Planet’s Offbeat North America.

Between 1891 and around 1930, the Ukrainian Bloc was home to the largest colony of Ukrainian settlers in Canada. Long before that, it was where Indigenous peoples (including the Cree and Métis) gathered, lived, and hunted. Today, this blend of cultures is reflected in the region’s communities, culinary delights, and quirky roadside attractions.

What is the location of the Ukrainian Bloc?

While the Ukrainian Bloc doesn't have strictly defined borders, its attractions and historic communities can be discovered along Hwys 16 and 28, to the east and northeast of Edmonton.

How much time should you allocate for a road trip in northeastern Alberta?

You can explore some of the top attractions in the Ukrainian Bloc on a day trip from Edmonton, but this unique area truly deserves a full weekend or more.

We’ve crafted this loop road trip (with minimal backtracking!) to be completed over an extended weekend, covering 660 km (410 miles) over four days. However, it can easily be accomplished in three days as well.

When is the ideal time to visit?

Northeastern Alberta is best explored during the summer months (June to August), when it stays light until after 10 PM. The long summer days are perfect for road trips, providing ample time for adventure. Just be cautious of deer on the roads at dusk.

Alternatively, consider visiting before the snow arrives. The fall months of September and October offer a great balance of good road conditions and a higher likelihood of witnessing the northern lights.

Where can you start and rent a car?

Edmonton International Airport (YEG) is located 31.5 km (19.5 miles) south of downtown Edmonton, with daily direct flights from numerous major Canadian and American airports, including Toronto, Vancouver, and Los Angeles.

All major car rental companies, such as Budget and Enterprise, have locations at the airport. Be sure to have insurance, as this road trip primarily takes place on paved roads, but windshield chips are common in rural Alberta.

Day 1: Kick off your road trip in Edmonton.

The atmosphere: Some view Edmonton as the underdog in its ongoing rivalry with Calgary. Yet, if there's any truth to that, Edmonton is rising to the challenge with a newly revitalized downtown, outstanding restaurants, and a vibrant performing arts scene. This is particularly evident along Old Strathcona’s Whyte Ave, where alternative culture meets boutique shopping. Theaters thrive here throughout the year (notably, actor Nathan Fillion honed his skills at many local venues), and in August, Whyte Ave transforms into one of the largest Fringe Festivals in the world.

Do: To set the stage for your upcoming adventures, visit Fort Edmonton Park for an introduction to Alberta’s history. Upon arrival, board the 1919 steam train to the Indigenous Peoples’ Experience. This immersive, multi-sensory journey offers insights into the Métis, an Indigenous nation formed through the unions of European fur traders and First Nations people in the 18th century. Then, leisurely stroll back to the park’s entrance, moving through time from the 1846 fur trading post to the 1920s midway.

Eat: Enjoy dinner at Bernadette’s, which opened in downtown Edmonton in May 2024. With two First Nations chefs at the helm (Cree chef Berrty Stoney and Mushkego chef Scott Iserhoff), anticipate dishes like bison cheek slow-cooked in red wine and bannock bites. Afterward, take an evening stroll north on 104th St. Just a short walk from Bernadette’s, discover the Neon Sign Museum, which illuminates the street with iconic signage from Edmonton’s past.

Stay: To stay in line with the theme (this is a historical tour of Alberta, after all), check into the Fairmont Hotel Macdonald. Welcoming guests since 1915, it offers stunning views of the River Valley, reputed to be the largest urban park in North America.

Day 2: Step back in time at the Ukrainian Heritage Village

The atmosphere: While the Ukrainian Bloc lacks distinct borders, your first sign of arrival will be the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village. This living museum features interpreters in character (some exclusively speaking Ukrainian) and explores the contributions of early Ukrainian immigrants to Alberta’s cultural landscape.

Do: If you enjoyed heritage parks yesterday at Fort Edmonton Park, cross the highway to Elk Island National Park instead. As you drive through, look out for the free-roaming Plains and Woods bison. You can also rent a canoe from the stand by Astotin Lake and explore its many islands.

Stay: Located in a tranquil woodland setting just west of Astotin Lake, Elk Island Retreat is known for its geodome, yurts, and cabins, as well as RV and van sites.

The journey: Today's drive is a breeze. From Edmonton, it’s a direct route east (approximately 50km or 31 miles) along Hwy 16 to the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village. Allow about 45 minutes for the trip.

Alternative itinerary: Short on time? You can skip the overnight stay in Elk Island National Park and head north, following our Day 3 directions below.

Day 3: Embrace the adventure on your drive to Cold Lake

The atmosphere: As farmland transitions into mixed woodlands and then boreal forests, traces of Ukrainian heritage become apparent throughout the landscape. Some signs are subtle, like the gleaming silver domes of Ukrainian churches set against vibrant yellow canola fields, while others—such as Glendon's towering 8-meter (26ft) pierogi—are hard to overlook.

Activities: Queue up your favorite playlist. Today is dedicated to a scenic drive, featuring stops at some of Alberta’s most unusual attractions along the way.

Departing from the entrance of Elk Island National Park, drive about 55km (34 miles) east on Hwy 16 to reach Vegreville. Take a moment in Elk's Park to admire what was once the world's largest pysanka (Ukrainian Easter egg), tipping the scales at an impressive 2.5 tons.

Next, it’s time to bid farewell to the Trans-Canada Highway. Start weaving your way northeast on secondary roads until you reach St. Paul, approximately 105km (65 miles) away. Take a break at the town’s UFO Landing Pad. While it's not connected to the region's Eastern European heritage, when in northeastern Alberta, why not embrace the alien theme?

Finally, enter the village of Glendon into your GPS. Located about 40km (25 miles) further northeast, it features the ultimate giant Ukrainian food item: a massive pierogi, complete with a fork stuck right through its center.

After that, take Hwy 660 heading east until it transforms into Hwy 28. Continue on this road for 80km (50 miles) until you reach its end in Cold Lake. This is the largest lake in Alberta's Lakeland Region, offering swimming, fishing, and sailing, along with the best accommodation options in the area.

Accommodation: Check into Waterfront Harbour Bed and Breakfast, located right on the shores of Cold Lake. Your stay includes a delicious homemade breakfast crafted by Métis owner Isabel Myshaniuk. Before sleeping, make sure to check the aurora forecast, as the northern lights are often visible dancing above the lake.

Day 4: Engage with the Métis community at Métis Crossing

The vibe: Complete your journey through Alberta’s history by heading back southwest towards Edmonton on Hwy 28, but make sure to stop at Métis Crossing. Nestled in a peaceful spot along the North Saskatchewan River, this cultural center offers a variety of Indigenous-led programs, including archery, canoeing, and wildlife park tours where you can see rare white bison (known as bufloo in Michif, the Métis language) and elk.

Do: The programs at Métis Crossing change with the seasons, but if you plan to stay overnight, we suggest the Whispers from the Stars experience. This isn’t just about astronomy; it explores how the Métis utilized the night sky as a clock and calendar. If possible, consider extending your stay to two nights to enhance your chances of witnessing the northern lights and enjoying multiple programs.

Before you leave, be sure to visit nearby Smoky Lake. The local bakery offers a delightful array of Ukrainian treats to enjoy. Additionally, the town features its own quirky attractions, including five enormous concrete pumpkins lined along Railway Drive.

Stay: Métis Crossing boasts a 40-room boutique lodge and campground, but we highly recommend the new stargazing domes with transparent roofs for a unique experience. For a budget-friendly alternative, return to Smoky Lake to find Nekinan, a hostel operated by the Métis Nation of Alberta that features private rooms and a vast display of regional Métis memorabilia.

Day 5: Head back to Edmonton while discovering more giant attractions along the way.

Do: It’s time to return to Edmonton, but not before checking off two more giant attractions. Cross the river south of Métis Crossing, then make a brief detour east to Andrew, where you can find the world’s largest mallard duck, boasting a wingspan of 7 meters (23ft).

From Andrew, continue your journey south on Hwy 855 for 32km (20 miles) until you reach Mundare. In the center, you’ll see a giant ring of kovbasa (Ukrainian sausage) funded by the town’s own sausage producer, Stawnichy’s. Don’t forget to grab some final treats at Stawnichy’s retail location, where they offer sausages, borscht (beet soup), pierogi (dumplings typically filled with potato and cheese), and baked perishke (cottage cheese buns).

Tips for EV drivers

Northeastern Alberta is largely rural, with significant distances between towns. However, you can find charging stations in major centers and essential stops along the way, including Cold Lake, Elk Island National Park (located at the main Astotin Beach Parking Lot), and Métis Crossing. For a map of EV charging stations, visit PlugShare.

Jessica Lockhart visited Métis Crossing at the invitation of Travel Alberta. Dinogo Planet does not accept freebies for positive coverage.