They acquired a dilapidated Italian castle and transformed it into an opulent getaway

Nearly three decades ago, South African couple Max and Joy Ulfane embarked on a search for their ideal Italian home — never anticipating that they would purchase a decaying Tuscan castle.

However, the couple, based in the UK, quickly fell in love with Castello di Fighine, a forgotten medieval fortress with an adjoining village, when they first discovered it in 1995.

Since then, the Ulfanes have transformed the castle, which sits 650 meters (2,130 feet) above sea level in San Casciano dei Bagni, near the Umbria border, into a luxurious second home.

“We've invested an immense amount of effort and resources to restore this place, overcoming many obstacles along the way,” Joy Ulfane tells Dinogo. “And to think, we never even wanted to own a castle in the first place!”

Castle Residence

The couple had considered dozens of properties across Italy before the hilltop castle, nestled among olive groves and forests, came to their attention.

“One day, the realtor said, ‘There’s a place in Tuscany, but it’s not for you, you won’t like it,’ – and that’s when we knew we had to see it,” recalls Joy.

Curious about the prospect, they made their way to the small hamlet of Fighine to inspect the castle, where they found a heavily neglected, ivy-clad structure with soaring vaulted ceilings and several rooms, including an old wine cellar.

Despite its run-down condition, filled with debris, the Ulfanes saw immense promise in Castello di Fighine and instantly felt it was the perfect place for them.

The Ulfanes were also drawn to the castle's timeless charm, surrounded by 1.5-meter-thick defensive walls, octagonal towers, and small round turrets, all of which added to its historic allure.

“When we visited Fighine, it felt so romantic, even though the castle was in ruins, draped in ivy and moss,” says Joy Ulfane. “It was nearly impossible to navigate through.”

They bought the fortress, which had once been owned by an aristocratic family, for an undisclosed amount that same year, and embarked on what would become a four-year renovation journey.

As they began clearing away the overgrowth surrounding the castle, they uncovered a tower that had previously been hidden from view.

Extensive restoration

After finishing the bulk of the work on Castello di Fighine, the Ulfanes decided to acquire several dilapidated houses in the nearby hamlet, embarking on renovations that would take an additional eight to ten years to complete.

The Ulfanes take immense pride in the entire endeavor, considering it a major achievement, especially given the constant coordination required with both the local San Casciano dei Bagno town hall and the Soprintendenza delle Belle Arti, Italy's heritage preservation authority, throughout the restoration.

"The castle is classified as a historic monument, so without the proper permits from the Belle Arti, we couldn’t even move a single stone," explains Joy Ulfane.

Under Italian law, any structural modifications that could impact the original design or function of a historic property must be approved and monitored by the relevant authorities, creating significant limitations on the type of changes that can be made during such renovations.

Rather than making drastic changes to the structure, the couple concentrated on redesigning the interiors and making the property livable again.

Although the renovation was challenging, the Ulfanes' determination ultimately paid off, and they are thrilled with the results. The castle's interiors have been completely transformed, with breathtaking outcomes.

The old barn has been converted into an elegant reception hall, and the castle’s gardens are adorned with neatly manicured box hedges, towering cypress trees, fragrant lemon trees, lush grapevines, and blooming roses.

The Ulfanes make it a point to visit their private retreat as frequently as possible, always feeling right at home in the charming village of Fighine.

A luxurious getaway

"We make it a point to visit once a month from London to unwind. We truly cherish the peace, serenity, and total privacy of our castle," shares Joy Ulfane.

"The gardens, the olive trees, and the breathtaking view from this hilltop, 650 meters above sea level, were exactly what I wanted," she adds.

The Ulfanes, who keep their castle as a personal retreat, renovated the nearby homes into five luxurious villas with pools and two apartments, which they now rent out to holidaymakers.

They also acquired the old village school in the hamlet, transforming it into a top-tier restaurant called Ristorante Castello di Fighine.

World-renowned German chef Heinz Beck manages the Michelin-starred restaurant, which boasts a lovely terrace shaded by wisteria.

While the majority of Fighine is now owned by the Ulfanes, a few long-time residents have chosen to stay, holding on to their homes and preserving the spirit of this ancient village.

Nestled near iconic towns such as Siena, Orvieto, Montepulciano, and Pienza, Fighine offers breathtaking views over the rolling hills of southern Tuscany.

Guests can wander through the village's charming narrow streets, explore the quaint piazza, and admire the centuries-old stone walls draped in vibrant flowers.

Fighine also boasts a private theater and a beautifully restored 16th-century chapel, which hosts weddings and other special occasions.

Originally built in the 11th century as a military lookout, Castello di Fighine is accessed by a solitary unpaved public road that connects it to the main route.

Over the centuries, powerful families like the Visconti, Medici, Orsini, and even the Pope, vied for control of the castle and its surrounding lands.

Historic landmark

According to Paolo Morelli, former mayor of San Casciano dei Bagni, Fighine began to lose its importance in the 1700s when its military significance diminished.

As life in the town became increasingly difficult, many local families abandoned the hamlet, seeking better opportunities elsewhere.

Historical records from 1746, uncovered by Morelli, show that the hamlet was home to only 17 families, with a population of just 60. Though the castle endured, it fell into disrepair for many years.

Morelli explains, 'In 1606, the castle passed to a Roman nobleman, who became the marquis of Fighine, and his family occupied the fortress for almost four centuries, until it was sold to the Ulfanes.'

By the time Italy experienced its post-World War II economic boom, the population of Fighine had dwindled to a mere dozen residents.

'There was no electricity, no running water, and no toilets, just a cold, fresh water spring that fed the village's historical stone wash house, where women would gather,' says Gloria Lucchesi, an artist and local history enthusiast who has interviewed several villagers about life in the past.

One local, Angelica, an elderly woman who recently passed away, had lived in Fighine since the 1950s. She shared that she never once thought of leaving the village.

'Fighine has always had a unique place in the hearts of everyone in the valley,' says Lucchesi. 'Schoolchildren are regularly brought here for tours, and tourists can't help but visit.'

'Its former splendor is still felt today. It's the largest and most stunning castle in the region,' Lucchesi continues.

'The restoration has brought it back to life. Fighine offers a rare opportunity to experience medieval village life, as though stepping back in time,' says Lucchesi.