This designer is reinventing the age-old art of henna with a contemporary touch

Henna, with its roots in the Middle East, North Africa, and South Asia, carries a deep cultural significance and has been used for centuries in religious rituals and celebrations. The natural dye is applied to create intricate, temporary body art, often for weddings and festive occasions.

Dubai-based Azra Khamissa is now leading the charge to modernize this traditional practice.

A trailblazer in minimalist henna designs, Khamissa has garnered a devoted following of over 100,000 Instagram fans, and her creative work has caught the attention of major fashion brands such as Gucci and Fendi.

Her goal is to merge henna with current fashion trends and to develop henna-based products for sale in mainstream beauty stores. Khamissa envisions henna becoming a daily fashion statement, not just reserved for special events.

A timeless craft

Henna, derived from plant leaves, has been used for centuries for cosmetic purposes. While its exact origins as a beauty product remain unclear, it has long been used to color hair, nails, and to create decorative patterns on the skin, according to Ade Solihat, an expert in Arab Studies at Universitas Indonesia.

As a child, Khamissa recalls henna being a common part of family celebrations like Eid. However, as she grew older and developed her own style, she began to 'dread' the floral designs traditionally associated with these occasions.

Khamissa's perspective on henna began to shift at a friend's wedding in 2017. While preparing for the event, she experimented with a bold design on her palm—a disc pattern (rubeya) and colored her fingertips (rawayeb). Traditionally, this design was worn only by grandmothers, but its minimalist simplicity resonated with Khamissa.

A week later, at a photoshoot for her handbag brand, Khamissa's henna-adorned hands were captured by the photographer. When she saw the photos, it sparked a new appreciation for henna. This moment marked the beginning of her journey as a henna artist.

‘I kept experimenting with traditional designs and started adding my own unique flair to them,’ she says.

Khamissa tries out new henna designs on her own hands first. When she runs out of room, her sister and grandmother step in to volunteer. While her grandmother doesn't always agree with her contemporary takes on tradition, Khamissa knows she’s found a winning design when her grandmother responds positively: 'If she likes it, I know it’s a success because that’s where the true traditional meets something new.'

Minimalist and contemporary

In her creations, Khamissa transforms elaborate floral patterns into minimalist line art of single flowers and substitutes intricate mandalas with basic geometric designs. Some of her work draws inspiration from North African and Arabic traditions, while others—such as topographical maps, abstract desert scenes, and politically charged symbols—reflect her personal vision.

Khamissa believes the temporary nature of henna, which lasts about two weeks, encourages bolder and more experimental designs, like all-over leopard print. For those who shy away from permanent tattoos, henna offers a less committed alternative and 'makes tattoo culture more accessible,' Khamissa says.

Khamissa isn’t alone in reimagining henna for modern times. Fellow UAE-based henna artist Amreen Wahid creates delicate floral patterns with a contemporary touch, while beauty influencers have even used henna to draw faux freckles and beauty spots.

According to Solihat, an Arab Studies expert, henna is no longer tied to 'symbolic or sacred meanings.' She notes that modern interpretations have allowed henna to 'cross boundaries, ethnicities, and identities,' and that it’s become increasingly popular among young urban populations without traditional henna heritage.

Henna in beauty stores

Khamissa’s vision goes beyond just modernizing henna designs – she aims to revolutionize how henna is sold as well.

Fresh henna paste, or the raw ingredients to prepare it, is typically only available at specialized stores.

‘There’s a significant gap in the market,’ says Khamissa. ‘Henna isn’t sold in major beauty retailers like Sephora or Boots, or in pharmacies. I want to change that and make henna more accessible to everyone.’

However, there’s a significant challenge – henna paste typically has a short shelf-life of just a few days. Many store-bought henna pastes include preservatives, and some contain PPD (paraphenylenediamine), a synthetic dye known to trigger severe allergic reactions.

Khamissa suggests that mini-freezers could solve the shelf-life issue, keeping henna paste fresh for up to six months. She’s considering creating her own freezers to help scale her business and make henna available in cosmetics stores.

In May 2020, Khamissa launched a non-toxic henna kit for sale. Other henna artists, like Dubai Henna, have also built online platforms, highlighting the rising demand for henna products.

Khamissa hopes that by making high-quality henna more accessible, it will inspire women to incorporate body art into their daily style. 'Henna should be as routine as getting your nails, hair, or makeup done – it’s the perfect finishing touch,' she says.