This European City is Known as “Paris Without the Crowds”

When planning a trip to Switzerland, Geneva often isn’t the first city that comes to mind. Its roughly 10-mile proximity to France contributes to its unique character, evident in the local language and the residents' love for cheese. What sets Geneva apart from other Swiss cities is its rich diversity, stemming from its status as an international diplomacy hub, alongside its historical depth. The result is a cultural tapestry as delightful as its fondue.

The steep, winding streets of Old Town encourage visitors to take their time and appreciate the blend of medieval, gothic, and Renaissance architecture, along with over 140 places of worship. An efficient public transport system transports travelers from an 18th-century neighborhood established by a Sardinian king to a riverfront restaurant that serves the city’s first omakase, reflecting the same appealing mix of history and modernity found in other European gems. A fellow traveler perfectly captured the essence of my walk through its quiet medieval lanes, declaring that Geneva is “Paris without the crowds.”

Now is the perfect time to visit before the secret gets out. Here are six activities to enjoy in Europe’s most underrated city.

1. Step Back in Time in Old Town

While Geneva’s bustling international business scene gives it a contemporary feel, its Old Town boasts a rich history that stretches from Roman times to its emergence as “Protestant Rome” during the Calvinist Reformation in the 16th century. The most significant remnant from this era is St. Pierre’s Cathedral. Constructed in the 12th century, the original tower offers a rewarding 157-step ascent for stunning views of the city. However, the most intriguing aspect of the church is its basement, featuring an archaeological site with former monk cells and remains of 4th-century churches.

Just a short walk from the Cathedral, the International Museum of the Reformation awaits, detailing how Geneva earned its title as “Protestant Rome.” The museum comprises nine rooms filled with paintings, manuscripts, books, and pop culture artifacts that trace the history of the Protestant movement from the 16th century to today. Within a 15-minute stroll, uncover the outdoor Passage des Templiers and the indoor Passage des Lions, two of several hidden pathways that have served both military and civilian purposes since the Middle Ages. Conclude your historical journey at Place Bourg-de-Four, the oldest square in the city, bustling with lively patios ideal for people-watching while enjoying a glass of Swiss wine.

2. Relax at the Beach

After a leisurely walk along Quai Wilson—a picturesque 3-mile waterfront path adorned with public art—treat yourself at Bains des Paquis. This jetty on Lake Geneva is a favorite for sunbathing in summer and warming up in the sauna during winter. With facilities including a hammam (steam room) and sauna, plus a snack bar serving cheese fondue and a rotating lunch menu featuring international dishes like Indian salads and Vietnamese pork buns, you can easily spend your afternoon here. It’s also the perfect spot for swimming while admiring the towering 460-foot Jet d’Eau fountain across the lake.

Tip: If you prefer a quieter setting, discover the secluded beach along the Arve river. Head south on Quai Charles-Page and watch for a staircase on the right side of Rue des Battoirs that leads down to the water.

3. Savor Swiss Delicacies and Global Cuisine

No visit to Geneva would be complete without sampling Switzerland’s two culinary treasures: cheese and chocolate. Cheese fondue is readily available throughout the city, but for an authentic medieval experience, dine at Restaurant Les Armures, known for its unchanged menu since the 17th century. Chocolate enthusiasts can create their own treats at La Bonbonniere, a historic chocolate factory in Old Town, or skip to the indulgence of the chocolate fondue fountain at Kiosque Des Bastions during their Sunday brunch.

Geneva excels not only in Swiss classics but also in diverse cuisine. With nearly half of its population hailing from abroad, the city features 140 international restaurants. Experience exquisite omakase crafted by Nobu-trained chef Mitsuru Tsukada at SACHI, or enjoy vibrant Italian dishes such as tagliolini with gambero rosso (red prawns) and refreshing grapefruit semifreddo at the Michelin-starred Il Lago.

Often overlooked, Geneva’s vineyards thrive thanks to a unique microclimate influenced by Lake Geneva and the Rhone River, producing exceptional gamay (red) and chasselas (white) wines. Explore these and other local varieties, including pinot noir and chardonnay, on a 20-minute tuk-tuk ride from the city—yes, there are tuk-tuk tours in Switzerland!

4. Spend Time in the Charming Plainpalais Neighborhood

Switzerland is renowned for its masterful craftsmanship, particularly in watches. A prime example is the impressive collection of 2,500 watches, enamel miniatures, and musical automata at the Patek Philippe Museum. Spanning five centuries of Genevan, Swiss, and European watchmaking artistry, the museum features a library with over 8,000 time-related publications, making it easy to lose oneself in time here. Their ‘Rare Handcrafts’ exhibit highlights the intricate art of hand engraving, allowing visitors to appreciate the detailed work of jewelry and watch artisans.

Just a short stroll from the museum, you’ll find a vibrant 50-year-old flea market operating every Wednesday, Saturday, and the first Sunday of the month. It’s brimming with antiques, jewelry, clothing, and food trucks offering delights ranging from regional Thai cuisine to Colombian empanadas. If you miss the market, the neighborhood is full of shops to explore: Visit Les Recyclables for second-hand books paired with coffee, and Les Enfants Terribles, a unique blend of design workshop, vintage store, and café. Don’t forget to stop by Pourquoi Pas for stylish clothing and Grain de Sel for compact home décor items perfect for travel.

5. Explore the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum

Geneva’s pivotal role in promoting humanitarianism on a global scale has solidified its status as a center for international diplomacy. Discover the evolution of humanitarian aid at the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum, where you can easily spend over an hour engaging with both permanent and temporary exhibits themed annually (this year's theme is “digital dilemmas”). A highlight of the permanent collection is the Geneva Conventions, a critical framework of treaties that dictate humanitarian laws in times of war.

Just downhill from the museum, you’ll find the Broken Chair, a monumental wooden structure weighing over 10,000 pounds, dedicated to those affected by armed conflict. From the Broken Chair, follow the impressive row of flags leading to the European headquarters of the United Nations—the Palais des Nations. As one of the largest diplomatic conference venues worldwide, this grand building showcases stunning 20th-century architecture.

6. Discover an 18th-century village nestled in the city

In the 1760s, the King of Sardinia established Carouge with the aim of creating a rival city to Geneva. Though it is still a separate municipality today, locals often view it as a suburb of Geneva, conveniently located just a 20-minute tram ride from downtown. With its charming cobblestone streets adorned with stucco buildings, elaborate doorways, and decorative moldings—hallmarks of Sardinian architecture—Carouge is rightfully designated as a Swiss National Heritage Site.

Key attractions include the historic Eglise Saint-Croix Church and Cinema Bio, an art-house cinema that opened in 1912. The queues at Gelatomania and MANU Gelato are definitely worth the wait. For a taste of refined French-Swiss cuisine with a Mediterranean twist, visit one of Carouge’s oldest bistros, Bistrot du Lion d’Or, which serves dishes like red mullet stuffed with fregola and Iberian chorizo. Alternatively, enjoy a fun meal at EnVie Vegan Food, offering plant-based options like the ‘Dark Knight Cheeseburger’ made with an activated charcoal bun.

Your accommodation options in Geneva

Overlooking the Rhone River, the Mandarin Oriental, Geneva boasts 178 guest rooms, many featuring private terraces that showcase stunning views of the snow-capped Alps. The luxurious ‘Royal Penthouse’ even includes its own private hammam.

The hotel embodies Geneva’s commitment to sustainability by eliminating single-use plastics, utilizing energy-efficient electricity and heating, and donating its soaps for recycling and distribution to those in need.

Correction: An earlier version of this article mistakenly noted Geneva’s distance from France as 200 miles, when it is actually 10 miles.

This article was initially published in 2023 and last updated on June 24, 2024, to reflect the most current information.