This Indigenous-owned destination in Canada features a boutique lodge, cultural events, sustainability initiatives, and new glamping sites perfect for stargazing.

In Smoky Lake, Alberta, the sky is vast, allowing you to witness retreating storms and rays of sunlight all at once. An old prairie saying came to mind as I sat in Len Hrehorets’s truck at the Visions, Hopes and Dreams event at Métis Crossing Wildlife Park. With the windows rolled down, we observed bison grazing nearby. The calm rancher turned on some country music, saying, “Keeps ’em calm.” The bison ambled past, showing mild curiosity, while playful spring calves dashed between their mothers and aunties, whose sturdy frames seemed unsteady on their thin legs. Though I can’t speak bison, they appeared to enjoy the cowboy tunes drifting through the air.

I journeyed from my home in Vancouver to Alberta to spend a few days at Métis Crossing, a sprawling 688-acre Indigenous-owned land encompassing a wildlife park along the North Saskatchewan River. Throughout much of the 20th century, this area was divided into narrow lots for Métis families to access essential resources like water, fields, and forests. Today, it features a cultural center, a 40-room lodge, campgrounds, and Sky Watching Domes, which are glamping accommodations that launched this summer. There are also exciting sustainability projects underway, including a solar farm and a permaculture garden.

The Métis people are one of the three recognized Indigenous groups in Canada, alongside First Nations and Inuit. This community originated in the 1700s from the descendants of unions between European fur traders and First Nations individuals, developing into a distinct ethnic group. After enduring over a century of oppression, the Métis are now on the brink of new opportunities: Indigenous tourism in Canada is booming, with projections indicating it could inject over $125 million into Alberta's economy by 2024.

Métis Crossing is among the pioneering locations globally to celebrate Métis cultural pride. Led by dynamic CEO Juanita Marois, its mission is to honor and educate both Indigenous and non-Indigenous guests about Métis heritage and modern culture—while also serving as a hub for innovative ideas.

In 2020, Marois collaborated with Hrehorets, who is non-Indigenous, to introduce bison to this region of Alberta and support their thriving population. In the Métis Michif language, these animals are called li bufloo, a term that blends primarily French and Cree influences in Alberta. Bison played a crucial role in the Métis economy and political landscape, as well as being a vital source of sustenance. Within the 320-acre wildlife park, located just a five-minute drive from the lodge, they serve as a keystone species, positively impacting all other life forms in their ecosystem. As they dig with their hooves and clear spaces for vegetation, “they’re naturally sharing and spreading seeds across the plains,” Marois explained as we wandered the lodge grounds. Birds utilize bison fur to line their nests, while prairie dogs benefit from the shorter grass in grazing areas to construct their burrows.

As a city-dwelling Métis girl, encountering li bufloo was a highlight of my experience, but there were plenty of activities to enjoy as well. Métis knowledge-holder and instructor Lilyrose Meyers introduced me to the art of tufting, a traditional craft where moose or caribou hair is collected, dyed, and stitched to create three-dimensional artwork or embellish clothing. As my inexperienced fingers struggled to keep pace, she casually inquired, “Where are you from?” This seemingly simple question is an invitation to share our family histories, as Métis people cherish discussing their lineage. While I recounted family names, she pulled out her phone to share historical photographs. The sense of belonging was profound—more than compensating for my lack of tufting skills. Laughter is also a hallmark of Métis culture, and Meyers and I shared many jokes. By the time we wrapped up, the sun hung low in the sky, and I bid her farewell to seek my overnight accommodations.

The Lodge at Métis Crossing, crafted by Métis architect Tiffany Shaw-Collinge, harmonizes sophisticated design with cozy comfort. The lobby features soaring ceilings and panoramic views of the grounds and expansive Alberta sky, highlighted by a grand stone fireplace. My room was adorned with a handmade quilt and boasted a private patio overlooking the river.

Every morning, breakfast was served in a quaint café on the ground floor, where staff member Beth Braucht treated me to cappuccinos. The meals were simple yet delightful, featuring local ingredients like saskatoon-berry coulis, bison sausage, and bannock, a type of bread introduced by European fur traders in the 18th century and embraced by Métis culture.

While guests can easily relax in their rooms, the property is clearly designed for group gatherings, complete with an outdoor performance stage and ample space for dancing both inside and outside. The Cultural Gathering Center offers areas for craft demonstrations and discussions; the dining hall can accommodate hundreds. In summer, guests can enjoy guided canoe tours or picnics on the lawn, while winter brings opportunities for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. During my visit, crews were busy preparing for Métis Fest, a June celebration that usually draws around 2,000 attendees — both Indigenous and non-Indigenous — from all over Canada.

On my final day, I strolled a short distance down a peaceful path to capture images of the new Sky Watching Domes. Nestled in a clearing, the shiny green-and-white structures resembled a welcoming Mars colony: six domes featuring king beds and two family suites, all spaced generously apart.

Although the domes are built for year-round enjoyment, their igloo-inspired design provides a cozy atmosphere perfect for cold weather, featuring high-set windows on the ceilings for optimal privacy. Located 75 miles from Edmonton’s city lights, this region is ideal for stargazing, and during certain times of the year, guests may even witness the aurora borealis. "Our nights are lengthy and our days are brief," Marois remarked about Alberta's winters. "We aimed to create these domes so that people can truly connect with the land and the sky."

As temperatures plummet and the prairie winds sweep down the North Saskatchewan, spending a night under the stars in this ancestral land may evoke tales of trappers, hunters, traders, and farmers, or it might simply lull you into a peaceful slumber.

This story first appeared in the October 2023 issue of Dinogo under the title "A Long Look Forward."