This site has been inhabited for centuries, though it has only recently become a popular destination for tourists.

In one of the world’s fastest-growing nations, a monument carved into sandstone rises amidst date farms and dusty two-lane roads.

This is Hegra.

Also known as al-Hijr or Mada’in Saleh, Hegra stands as the crown jewel of Saudi Arabia's ancient landmarks, and it was the first site in the country to be added to the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Built between the first century BCE and the first century CE, this ancient city features an impressive necropolis, with tombs carved into the sandstone, set against the vast desert landscape of northwestern Saudi Arabia.

Petra, the renowned archaeological site in Jordan, was the capital of the Nabatean people, while Hegra served as the southern frontier of the kingdom until its abandonment in the 12th century.

While Petra is one of the modern Seven Wonders and attracted over a million visitors annually before the pandemic, Hegra only became accessible to most international tourists in 2019, when Saudi Arabia started issuing tourist visas.

Although Hegra isn't as widely recognized yet, this is changing with the rise of AlUla, a nearby oasis town that has transformed into a vibrant hub for arts, culture, and tourism. It now has a small, well-connected airport with regular flights from Jeddah, Riyadh, and Dubai.

Emerging from the shadows of history

The Nabateans are thought to have traded in aromatics such as incense and spices, many of which played key roles in religious rituals.

Two of the most famous of these were frankincense and myrrh, which many people in the West associate with the gifts brought to the infant Jesus in the Christian Bible.

Much of their culture has been lost to time. However, thanks to growing investment in archaeology by the Saudi government, more and more discoveries are being made at Hegra and other Nabatean sites.

"We’re all familiar with the Assyrians and the Mesopotamians," says Wayne Bowen, history professor at the University of Central Florida. "But the Nabateans resisted both the Romans and the Hellenistic Greeks. They built an advanced system of cisterns in the desert, controlled crucial trade routes, and often get overshadowed by the rise of the Roman Empire."

Although the Nabateans left little in terms of written records, one of their lasting contributions to the region remains significant – the Nabatean alphabet, which served as the foundation for the modern Arabic script.

Recently, historians have managed to bring the Nabateans to life in a very tangible way.

In early 2023, researchers unveiled "Hinat," a reconstructed face of a Nabatean woman whose remains were discovered in the desert. Now, visitors can view her likeness at the Hegra visitor center.

In the heart of the desert

Upon arrival at the visitor center, guests are greeted with a serving of dates and cups of lightly brewed Saudi coffee, often spiced with cardamom. The coffee is poured from a traditional silver urn with a curved spout.

From there, visitors can hop into a vintage Land Rover, styled in midcentury fashion (with or without a roof, depending on the weather), and embark on an adventure with a guide.

As with many destinations in this sun-drenched region, the best times to visit AlUla and its surroundings are early in the morning or in the evening. This is especially true at Hegra, where there are no trees or structures to shield visitors from the intense midday heat.

The Nabateans, a nomadic people, left little behind in terms of everyday life. What remains are their awe-inspiring tombs and burial sites.

There are approximately 115 tombs that have been identified and cataloged.

The most iconic of these is Qasr al-Farid, which translates to 'the lonely castle.' Standing alone in the desert, this 72-foot tall tomb creates a striking contrast with the surrounding sand, especially at sunset when the desert hues are illuminated by a soft pink-orange glow, making it a perfect photo opportunity.

At any given time, only one tomb is open to visitors, allowing them a glimpse inside. These tombs are rotated periodically to prevent overcrowding and to give each one a break from heavy foot traffic.

However, it's the intricate and fascinating designs on the exterior that truly capture attention.

The door frames often feature inscriptions of the names of those buried inside. Decorative details offer insights into the places the residents may have come from, with symbols of phoenixes, eagles, and snakes suggesting influences from far-flung cultures such as Greece and Egypt.

Broaden your exploration

Many tourists choose to enhance their visit to Hegra by exploring nearby historical gems like Dadan and Jabal Ikmah.

In the Jabal Ikmah valley, often called an 'open-air library' by locals, you'll discover a wealth of inscriptions carved into rock. These range from Aramaic and Dadanitic to Thamudic, Minaic, and Nabataean, offering fascinating glimpses into the area's ancient history. Translations are provided in Arabic, English, and occasionally French, as French monks were among the early explorers of the region.

Dadan was once a thriving pre-Islamic trade hub, where merchants peddling spices rubbed shoulders with pilgrims on their religious journeys.

The most striking feature of Dadan is the 'Lion Tombs,' a collection of mausoleums adorned with intricate carvings of lions, which gives the site its name.

Visiting all three of these sites in one day is straightforward. Booking is easiest through the official tourism portal, Experience AlUla. For those short on time, a two-hour tour is available, with afternoon and full-day options as well.

Be sure to stop by the covered outdoor station close to the Hegra visitor center, where you can try your hand at carving your name or initials into stone with a small chisel.

The effort required to carve will help you truly appreciate the craftsmanship the Nabateans put into their monumental works. You can also purchase miniature replicas of Hegra’s most impressive structures, crafted by the women who manage this workshop.

Looking ahead

Currently, Petra is focused on preserving its heritage and managing the effects of mass tourism, giving Hegra the chance to flourish and draw in more visitors.

David Graf, Professor Emeritus of Middle Eastern History at the University of Miami, notes that many archaeologists who once worked at Petra are now moving to Saudi Arabia, likely leading to exciting new discoveries in the future.

This shift will also raise global awareness of the Nabateans and their significant role in history.

"The Nabateans were a highly cosmopolitan and refined civilization, and I have been dedicated to highlighting that fact," says Graf, who continues to write and give lectures in his retirement.

"We knew very little about the Nabataeans. My mission has been to ensure we uncover more about them – to show they weren’t backward or primitive, but instead a vibrant and engaged people who interacted with Rome, the Greek world, and many other cultures."