Ways to discover Guatemala via bus, boat, motorcycle, and more

Home to stunning pyramids, ancient ruins, lush jungles, volcanoes, and a vibrant Mayan culture, Guatemala showcases the highlights of Central America.

Venturing through this captivating region of the Americas is a delight, though traveling from one place to another may take longer than expected.

In a country where the average monthly income is around US$400, car ownership is beyond the reach of most Guatemalans, leading the majority to depend on public transport. Consequently, buses are typically crowded, but there’s almost always one heading to your desired destination.

Travelers will be glad to know that Guatemala's public transport network is wide-ranging and affordable, though it may not always be the most efficient. Buses will get you to your destination reliably, but be prepared for long journeys, bumpy roads, and a bit of discomfort along the way.

Traveling short distances in this compact country can be deceptive: due to poorly maintained, winding roads, slow traffic, and frequent road closures, your travel time will likely be longer than expected. There are options for adventurers of every budget, and in such a vibrant country, the journey itself enhances the experience.

Here are our recommendations for navigating Guatemala.

Buses provide a budget-friendly and convenient way to travel around Guatemala.

At present, Guatemala’s limited rail network offers no passenger services, making the bus the primary mode of mass transportation. Buses in Guatemala are divided into two categories: comfortable first-class coaches and second-class “chicken buses”—renovated US school buses that serve nearly all destinations.

First-class buses, often referred to as “express buses,” operate on popular routes between major locations, with regular services connecting Guatemala City to Quetzaltenango, Huehuetenango, Flores (for Tikal), and Panajachel (for Lago de Atitlán). These buses also link major cities to beach destinations and international borders with Honduras, Mexico, El Salvador, and Belize.

However, not all bus services are equal. Some buses come equipped with toilets, while others do not. Some feature a TV at the front showing music videos or action films dubbed in Spanish, while others provide a quieter atmosphere for you to enjoy the views or take a nap. First-class buses are approximately double the fare of second-class ones, but they offer greater speed, safety, and comfort.

Locally known as camionetas, chicken buses run more frequently than first-class coaches and connect virtually every city, town, and village across the country. These retired US school buses have been repurposed with vibrant colors and eye-catching chrome details. While you might not see many chickens on board these days, they transport just about everything else.

Buses make frequent stops to pick up and drop off passengers. Additionally, shopkeepers in smaller towns often utilize chicken buses to transport their goods, resulting in limited aisle space. Although they are slow, these buses provide one of the best opportunities to interact with locals.

Having a basic understanding of Spanish can be beneficial when traveling on chicken buses. Since stops aren’t clearly labeled, simply inform the driver of your destination, and they’ll notify you when it’s time to get off. Basic Spanish also helps you ask other passengers about the fare, ensuring you don’t pay significantly more than everyone else.

Chicken buses are generally more suitable for short distances rather than lengthy, all-day trips. They can be cramped and uncomfortable, particularly for taller passengers (as they were designed for American schoolchildren). Large backpacks will be stored on the roof, so it's wise to travel with a smaller day pack to protect your belongings from the elements and curious hands.

Theft can be an issue on these buses, so stay vigilant and keep an eye on your belongings. If someone engages you in conversation and moves closer, cover your bag’s zipper with your hand. While most interactions are sincere, thieves sometimes use conversation as a distraction to steal your wallet, phone, or camera.

Guatemala's microbuses provide a bit more comfort for a higher price.

In certain regions of Guatemala, you'll encounter minibuses, locally known as microbuses, which travel on paved roads connecting major towns or operate on local routes in larger cities. While they cost more than chicken buses, they also offer enhanced comfort.

You'll find more legroom and functioning shock absorbers, resulting in a much smoother ride compared to the bumpy chicken buses. Some microbuses even feature air-conditioning, a welcome relief in the tropical heat, especially for lowland routes. Like chicken buses, larger luggage will be stored on the roof, but there's a lower risk of theft.

Tourist shuttles provide fast transfers but lack a local atmosphere.

Tourist shuttles, which are small vans or minibuses, run between all the key tourist spots in Guatemala. They also connect to cross-border destinations like San Cristóbal de las Casas in Mexico, Playa El Tunco in El Salvador, and the ruins of Copán in Honduras.

Shuttle services typically cost twice as much as chicken buses, and you'll find yourself in a bit of a tourist bubble, with fewer locals around. However, their comfort, convenience—many shuttles will drop you off at your hotel or hostel—and the opportunity to exchange tips with fellow travelers make them an excellent choice for longer trips.

You can reserve seats on shuttles at any local travel agency, though the departure point may differ. For instance, if you book a shuttle from San Pedro La Laguna on Lago de Atitlán to San Cristóbal de las Casas in Mexico, you'll first need to take an early boat to Panajachel, where the shuttle ride begins. (Be sure to check with the agency if the ticket price includes your boat fare.)

Driving in Guatemala offers the freedom to explore wherever you desire.

If you prefer the flexibility of traveling on your own timetable, driving is a viable choice. An international driver’s license is required for those from countries with non-Roman alphabets; however, other travelers can use a valid home country driver’s license for the first 30 days.

Renting a car is straightforward at airports, major cities, and popular tourist areas, provided you are at least 25 years old. Always review the insurance terms: coverage for loss or theft may not be included, so it's advisable to park securely. Gas prices in Guatemala are higher than in the U.S., but lower than in Canada, Australia, and Europe.

You can bring your vehicle into the country, although it involves significant bureaucracy. Alternatively, you can hire a private car with a driver, which can be easily arranged through travel agencies in most tourist areas, alleviating the stress of navigating unfamiliar roads.

Keep in mind that driving in Guatemala requires a strong stomach: aggressive driving is commonplace. While major roads are generally well-maintained, visibility can drastically decrease at night or during rain or fog. Smaller towns feature narrow streets, and finding safe parking can be challenging. It's best to avoid driving at night due to low visibility, the risk of animals on the road, and the presence of intoxicated drivers or potential robberies.

Taxis and rideshare services are convenient options for short local trips.

In Guatemala City, Antigua, and Quetzaltenango, metered taxis are prevalent, but they're nearly absent in smaller towns and around Lago de Atitlán. Regardless of whether there's a meter, it's wise to negotiate the fare before you begin your ride.

Is Uber available in Guatemala? Yes, but it operates only in Guatemala City and Antigua. This is a great choice for navigating these cities: it’s safe, fares are fixed, and if you don’t speak Spanish, the app handles everything for you.

In smaller towns, tuk-tuks also function as taxis.

Commonly referred to as tuk-tuks, moto-taxis are available in nearly every town in Guatemala, although they are less frequent in Guatemala City and Quetzaltenango. These small vehicles are often the most practical means of public transport within towns due to their affordability and speed.

In certain regions, tuk-tuks may also connect to nearby towns and villages. Alternatively, they can take you to the town's edges, where you'll need to switch to another tuk-tuk for further travel. It's important to learn how to identify officially licensed tuk-tuks in each town, as regulations vary by location.

To hail a tuk-tuk, simply extend your hand and make a gentle up-and-down motion, as if you’re patting an imaginary child on the head. Usually, if you stand by the roadside, tuk-tuks will stop to see if you need a ride.

In some rural regions, pickup trucks serve as transport for passengers.

Tuk-tuks have largely taken over from pickup trucks, known locally as picops, as the go-to option for affordable local transport. Nevertheless, you'll still encounter pickup trucks acting as local buses in less touristy and more rural areas, as they are better equipped to handle rough dirt roads.

With their open tops, pickup trucks are ideal for sunny weather. Just remember to hold on tight! Inform the driver where you’d like to disembark, or if you're familiar with the stop, simply tap on the side of the truck to signal that you're ready to get off.

Bicycles and motorcycles are for the adventurous at heart.

Cycling in Guatemala isn't for the faint-hearted, but it's definitely doable. The views are breathtaking, yet be prepared for scorching heat in low areas or challenging ascents in the highlands. And as for bike paths? Don't count on them! If you’re up for the challenge, you can rent bikes, including mountain bikes, in most tourist hubs, making it easy to ride around towns or along the scenic routes of Lago de Atitlán and Antigua.

Motorbikes are becoming more popular in Guatemala; it's common to see entire families, including kids, riding on one bike without helmets. If you're covering longer distances between towns, wearing a helmet is a must. For both motorcycling and cycling, it's best to steer clear of busy main roads, where speeding trucks and buses pose a real threat. You can rent motorcycles in Antigua and near Lago de Atitlán.

Air travel can save you from lengthy road trips.

Given that Guatemala is roughly the size of Tennessee and smaller than England, domestic flights aren’t widely used. However, flying is particularly convenient for skipping the long bus journey to Flores and Tikal in the north or for traveling from Flores to Belize.

TAG Airlines provides regular flights from Guatemala City to Flores and Puerto Barrios, while Tropic Air operates flights from Flores to Belize City.

For those with a reasonable budget, ARM Aviación offers charter flights to various locations across the country, departing from La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City.

Boats glide along jungle rivers, making their way to the coast.

Some locations in Guatemala, such as Livingston on the Caribbean coast and Jaibalito by Lake Atitlán, are accessible primarily by boat. When available, boats are often favored for their speed and direct routes. For instance, traveling from Panajachel to San Pedro La Laguna across Lake Atitlán takes about half an hour by lancha (public motorboat), compared to a two-hour road journey.

Although few locals use them, it’s advisable to wear the life jackets provided when boarding a boat, as lanchas can occasionally capsize, particularly on windy days. Sitting at the front allows you to enjoy the breeze, but be prepared to get splashed with water; sitting toward the back generally offers a drier, smoother ride.

When planning a day that includes a boat trip, be sure to allocate ample time for the journey. Lanchas do not follow a strict schedule and will only depart when full, which might take just minutes early in the morning or an hour or more later in the day.

Accessible travel in Guatemala

Traveling in Guatemala can be challenging for individuals with mobility issues. Although there are laws in place to protect the rights of disabled people and prohibit discrimination, enforcement is minimal and improvements are scarce in practice.

Accessible accommodations for wheelchair users are limited, and options for accessible transport are almost nonexistent. However, you'll find that most Guatemalans are eager to assist in any way they can. Traveling with your own vehicle and driver is typically the most convenient choice.