‘We're entering the major leagues in the champagne world’: How artisanal labels are reshaping Dubai’s nightlife scene

On the 30th floor of The Lana, Dubai’s first Dorchester Collection hotel, stylish patrons sip champagne from flutes, with views of the City of Gold’s stunning skyline framed by the dark desert sands beyond.

This newly opened bar, named High Society, pays homage to its upscale clientele who are known to favor its signature drink: champagne.

Nicolas Caupain, the hotel’s director of food and beverage, is an enthusiastic champagne connoisseur. He designed the bar to offer guests the experience of enjoying champagne 'not just as a celebratory drink, but as a fine wine to savor every day,' he explains.

Dubai’s alcohol scene is unique. The UAE’s official religion, Islam, prohibits alcohol consumption. Yet, the city’s growing expat community and tourism industry have led to relaxed regulations in recent years, such as the decriminalization of alcohol in 2020 and the removal of the 30% alcohol sales tax last year. However, Muslims are still forbidden from purchasing alcohol.

Despite the city boasting over 13,000 restaurants, Dubai's bar scene has mostly been dominated by Michelin-starred dining, nightclubs, and boozy brunches. Bars that focus on unique drink designs and diverse menus are a rarity.

However, Caupain believes there is a niche market in Dubai eager for this level of sophistication and exploration, positioning High Society as part of a trend towards more laid-back drinking spaces.

Unlike most wines, champagne undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle, which gives it its signature sparkle, making each bottle unique, Caupain explains. Champagne is allowed to mature for at least 15 months, with some vintages aging up to 10 years. This process results in a wide variety of flavor profiles, as demonstrated by High Society’s 118 labels and expansive 'by the glass' offerings—one of the largest selections in the UAE, according to Caupain.

Rising demand

High Society’s collection features renowned champagne houses like Pol Roger, favored by both Queen Elizabeth II and Winston Churchill, as well as artisanal 'grower champagnes' such as Egly Ouriet, Larmandier Bernier, and Ulysse Collin.

As the name implies, these lesser-known labels are small-scale champagne makers who cultivate their own grapes—and their popularity is soaring worldwide, according to Samuel Lacroix, wine director at Al Muntaha, a Michelin-starred European restaurant at the iconic Burj Al Arab hotel.

Lacroix shares, 'Smaller champagne producers often craft unique, exclusive, and exceptionally delicious bottles.'

Al Muntaha, recently awarded by Star Wine List for having the best sparkling wine list in the UAE, boasts 166 champagne labels, including around 60 new grower champagnes, Lacroix reveals. Dubai's evolving demographic, with a surge in high-level professionals and business elites drawn by the city's golden visa, is pushing the local F&B scene to rival global culinary capitals. 'The clientele is becoming more discerning,' he adds.

The UAE has long been a leader in wine selection in a region known for its strict alcohol regulations. In 2022, it was the largest importer of champagne in the Middle East and Africa, according to data from the Comité Champagne trade association. The country imported nearly three times as much champagne as the rest of the Arabian Peninsula combined. However, suppliers tend to focus on the larger champagne houses, which are easier to buy in bulk, explains Lacroix. As world-class sommeliers and chefs continue to flock to Dubai, they bring with them a growing demand for more distinctive products and dining experiences.

'With so many prestigious champagne names now available, I believe we’re entering the major leagues of the champagne world,' says Lacroix.

'Casual wine culture'

An increasing number of restaurants in Dubai are offering unique wines and champagnes. For instance, Josette, a French eatery that opened in 2023, serves its own private-label champagne, while BOCA, a recipient of the 2023 Green Michelin Star, features a selection of organic, biodynamic, and eco-conscious sparkling wines.

Even Dubai’s flagship airline, Emirates, has embraced the city’s love for champagne. In December 2022, it became the first airline in the world to serve Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Dom Pérignon onboard, claiming to purchase more champagne than any other airline globally.

Award organizations are starting to recognize the region's growing influence: Gault&Millau, a prestigious French dining guide, opened its UAE office in Dubai in 2022 and launched the UAE Champagne Index the same year. Additionally, Star Wine List, a Swedish publication, held its inaugural UAE awards just last month. The majority of the winners and nominees for both awards were based in Dubai.

While the bar scene in Dubai is rapidly evolving, it still faces challenges, many rooted in the country’s past alcohol restrictions. The city has only two wine suppliers, and a 50% customs duty is levied on alcohol. Furthermore, many venues lack the proper storage systems required for fine wines and champagnes—a significant concern for smaller, independent restaurants, as improper storage in Dubai's constant heat can damage the wine stock, says Lacroix.

The culture around drinking in Dubai is largely centered on dining or special occasions, with little room for casual drinking in between, says Krister Bengtsson, founder of Star Wine List.

'A more relaxed approach to sharing wine just doesn’t exist yet here — whereas in places like Paris, London, and New York, wine bars are truly the heart of the scene,' says Bengtsson, adding that venues like High Society could help foster a 'casual wine culture' that focuses more on the drinks than the food.

'It’s fascinating to see so many great wines and champagnes available by the glass at surprisingly affordable prices in Dubai, making it easier for people to explore new wines,' says Bengtsson.

The rising popularity of artisanal labels is 'bringing a fresh perspective for both wine enthusiasts and restaurants,' and 'putting pressure on importers to diversify their offerings and include more small-scale producers,' says Bengtsson — all factors driving the evolution of the city’s drinks scene.

At High Society, Caupain envisions a relaxed vibe, pairing luxurious finger foods (created by French chef Jean Imbert specifically to complement champagne) with a vinyl DJ. The goal is to offer a versatile space for guests to enjoy champagne on any occasion and usher in a new era for Dubai’s bar culture.

'Our pricing model is designed to encourage repeat visits — whether you’re coming with friends on a Tuesday, with a partner on a Thursday, or with a business associate over the weekend,' says Caupain, adding, 'We want to establish High Society as a lifestyle destination.'