Your comprehensive guide to traveling around Jordan

You can explore a significant part of Jordan on your initial trip, considering its compact size (it's less than 75% the area of New York State).

However, the distinct driving regulations, absence of dependable public transport, and the expansive desert roads linking popular destinations like Amman and Petra necessitate some advance planning for travel in Jordan.

Choosing a car, bus, or even walking depends on your preferences, budget, itinerary, and travel style. Here’s some guidance to help you determine the best way to get around.

Driving offers flexibility, but it can also be quite stressful.

Renting a car in Jordan offers both benefits and challenges; it's crucial to weigh the pros and cons to determine if it's the right choice for you. Driving in Jordan can be intense, with vehicles passing on either side and parking often occurring anywhere, including the middle of the road. Traffic signals and lines seem to be more like suggestions, horns are frequently honked, and turn signals are rarely used.

This makes driving here not ideal for the timid. However, if you're a confident driver who can adapt to local customs, renting a car allows you the flexibility to explore major attractions at your leisure. You can also reach lesser-known sites like the pre-Roman ruins near Iraq Al Amir, avoiding the expense of hiring a driver or joining a guided tour.

How to rent a vehicle in Jordan

You'll find plenty of rental-car agencies in larger cities like Amman and Aqaba, including international brands such as Hertz and Thrifty, along with local companies. You might be able to negotiate a better price with local firms, but booking online ahead of time can secure a set rate and give you peace of mind. Keep in mind that many businesses close on Fridays, so if you need a car over the weekend, check their hours or plan to collect it on Thursday.

To rent a car in Jordan, the minimum age is 21, with an additional fee for drivers under 25. You'll need to present your driving license. While the law requires an international driving permit, car rental agencies may not always request it. It's wise to bring it just in case, even if it's not requested.

The type of car you choose will depend on your travel plans.

Select a vehicle that matches your itinerary: an economy car for navigating main roads and tight parking in cities, or a 4x4 if you plan to explore off-road or tackle desert dunes (which is not advisable unless you are highly skilled at driving in soft sand).

Before leaving the rental lot, inspect the vehicle thoroughly and document any existing damage to avoid charges upon return. Be sure to check the heating and air conditioning as well; Jordan's weather can be extreme, and you don't want to face a road trip without climate control.

If you enjoy road trips and prefer to drive yourself, keep in mind that you might miss the cultural and historical insights a driver or tour guide can offer. Consider hiring a guide for attractions like Jerash, Petra, and Wadi Rum, where local expertise and storytelling enrich your experience and foster connections. Engaging with local guides not only showcases Jordanian hospitality but also supports the local economy.

Essential tips for taking a taxi in Jordan

Traditional yellow taxis can be found in urban areas, but they're less common in remote regions. If you choose to take a taxi, confirm your destination before starting the trip and ensure the driver activates the meter immediately. It's mandatory for them to do so—if they refuse, you can exit the vehicle. Carry small cash notes, as Jordan operates largely on cash, and taxi drivers may struggle to provide change for bills larger than JD5.

Although many drivers are friendly, some travelers have reported experiences of harassment and being overcharged when hailing taxis, making rideshare services a potentially safer option.

Uber and Careem are widely accessible in major cities, allowing you to easily schedule and pay for rides through their apps. As drivers are regulated by these companies, the vehicles are usually cleaner, and your ride is tracked for added security. However, they can be more expensive than taxis, and you might face longer wait times during peak hours, especially on public holidays and Thursday evenings. Always account for extra time due to traffic when planning your day.

When opting for either a traditional taxi or a rideshare service, keep in mind the social norms: if the driver is male, male passengers should sit in the front while females sit in the back. Conversely, if a female rideshare driver picks you up, the seating arrangement flips: women can sit in the front, and men should take the back seat.

If you're a non-smoker, you might prefer renting a car or hiring a private driver, as it's common for taxi drivers to smoke during rides. Although Uber has a no-smoking policy, some drivers may smoke right before picking up passengers, leaving lingering odors in the vehicle.

Opt for the bus for the experience, not for convenience

Buses do operate in Jordan, but the public transport system is often unreliable and limited. Schedules are difficult to find, and buses usually don't connect popular tourist spots, so you might want to avoid this option. However, if you're curious and have some spare time, riding the bus with locals can be a rewarding experience. Check with your hotel or travel provider for route information, as online details may not be current.

Inter-city minibuses are also available, but be prepared for some challenges and have basic Arabic skills if you choose this option. They typically leave only when full, which means you might wait for an unpredictable period. Additionally, you’ll need to inquire about departure and arrival points.

Spacious, air-conditioned JTT buses operate on several tourist-friendly routes, including connections from Amman to Petra and Aqaba, as well as from Aqaba to Wadi Rum. JTT also provides daily tours to popular attractions, making it a convenient option. While routes and schedules can be found online and are generally reliable, they may change, so it's advisable to contact the head office directly or visit in person to secure your ticket.

Consider the airport shuttle bus if you're on a budget

For an economical option from Queen Alia International Airport to central Amman, the Sariya Airport Express bus is ideal for budget travelers. Although the Airport Express has received mixed reviews and does not drop off at hotels, it’s a good choice unless you're in a hurry—then a taxi or Uber would be more suitable.

Guided tours provide the most relaxed way to explore Jordan

If you prefer to let the experts handle the driving, guided tours offer the most relaxing way to travel through Jordan. Although they may be pricier than bus rides or rental cars, you can unwind and enjoy the sights while the tour operator takes care of all logistics and traffic challenges. Additionally, guided tours give you valuable local insights, necessary equipment (like helmets for canyoning), safety, support, and opportunities to connect with fellow travelers. Sharing rides with others also helps to lessen your carbon footprint.

For a self-drive experience that eliminates navigation worries, consider a tailored private tour or create your own itinerary and hire a driver.

Insider tip: Some car rental agencies provide options for car-and-driver services. You can often find trustworthy private drivers through recommendations in social media groups like EXPATS in Amman—a great resource for suggestions.

Traveling by air isn't the most efficient way to navigate Jordan

Due to Jordan's compact size, most travelers choose to travel by car, bus, or guided tour when moving between Amman and Aqaba or Wadi Rum. However, there are also domestic flights connecting Amman and Aqaba, which take about an hour and typically cost between JD50 and JD130, depending on the season and availability. Keep in mind that while the flight itself is quick, you need to consider travel time to the airport and check-in procedures.

Advice for exploring Jordan on foot

At first glance, Jordan may not seem very pedestrian-friendly. The weather can be harsh, sidewalks can be uneven or absent, there are no subways or trains, and Amman's steep hills pose a challenge—especially during the sweltering summer. However, walking is a significant part of Bedouin culture, and by retracing the paths of those who walked before, you'll discover why it's one of the finest ways to navigate Jordan.

Although walking isn't typically the most convenient way to explore Amman, certain areas like Rainbow St, Al Webdeh, and Al Balad offer a delightful experience on foot. When you head out, remember to bring ample water and snacks, wear sunscreen, and put on sturdy shoes.

In rural areas, it's essential to stick to marked trails. The Jordan Trail, a remarkable 675km (420-mile) trek stretching from Umm Qais in the north to Aqaba in the south, allows you to traverse the country on foot. If time permits (taking about 30 to 45 days based on your pace) and you're up for the challenge, this is an eco-friendly and awe-inspiring way to experience Jordan. You’ll navigate diverse landscapes, visit numerous villages, follow Bedouin paths, and explore archaeological and UNESCO World Heritage sites like Gadara, Jerash, Petra, and Wadi Rum.

Insider tip: Avoid hitchhiking. If you plan to cover long distances but won't be following the Jordan Trail, consider renting a car for those segments and then hiking or walking once you reach your destination.

Accessible transport options in Jordan

Transportation options for those needing accessibility in Jordan are quite limited, so it's advisable for visitors to consult their tour operators well in advance for any necessary accommodations. Private transport is often the best choice for travelers with accessibility requirements. Accessible Jordan is a valuable resource for the latest options, and Dinogo Planet's accessible travel hub offers further guidance.