A Doubtful Traveler Discovers Inner Peace—and an Amazing Vegan Croissant—at a Mexican Wellness Retreat

At 11 a.m., I find myself barefoot in a line of about 20 people, following the hotel’s shaman on a wooden deck beneath a lush canopy of broad-leafed jungle foliage.

“Keep the connection between the elements!” he cautions while beating his drum. He weaves around tree trunks that rise through the deck’s planks, carefully avoiding an imaginary path linking a small fire burning brightly in a brass bowl, a large quartz crystal on a pedestal, and a bowl of water resting on the ground. I glance back at my friend, who shrugs as she maintains her place in our conga line of hotel guests seeking spiritual enlightenment.

My friend and I are participating in an “awakening ceremony” at Palmaia, the House of Aia in Playa del Carmen, a new all-inclusive wellness resort renowned for its vegan cuisine and picturesque setting in Mexico’s Caribbean Riviera Maya. This ceremony—according to the hotel’s pamphlet—aims to “align the body’s energy correctly to harmoniously activate the qualities of the Self.” As we chase after the shaman, he eventually asks us to sit on meditation cushions arranged in a circle on the deck. He instructs us to place our hands over our hearts and express our “love and appreciation” to each person in the group. I feel my cheeks flush with embarrassment at the idea of telling someone I’ve never even greeted that I love them, while the pungent smoke of copal incense stings my eyes as I turn to a middle-aged woman in beach attire and manage to whisper those three words.

Before I embarked on my trip to Palmaia, the House of Aia, I did some research to gauge what my experience would be like. Other than videos from YouTubers, images on their website, and a few clips on Instagram, information about Palmaia is quite limited. Opened in January 2020, Palmaia was established by hotelier Alex Ferri, the CEO of Sandos Hotels and Resorts, who is passionate about alternative lifestyles (think sustainability, health-centric diets, and an abundance of yoga mats and linen fabrics). Sandos Hotels is the family business that Ferri was born into, offering the classic all-inclusive experience that travelers expect from a Cancun vacation.

Palmaia represents his passion project, reflecting the bohemian, plant-based lifestyle of 46-year-old Ferri. He envisions it as a sanctuary for guests seeking solace from the pressures of modern life. Families, couples, and solo travelers alike can engage in profound introspection alongside classic tropical vacation activities: serene blue pools, yoga sessions, and spa treatments set against a backdrop of white-sand beaches, lush taro plants, and vibrant royal poinciana trees. Revealing all of Palmaia’s secrets online would spoil the thrill of discovering them firsthand.

Staying at Palmaia offers a unique twist on the traditional all-inclusive resort experience. Guests can certainly unwind by the beach or pool with a refreshing drink and sunhat. However, what sets Palmaia apart is its array of wellness activities available to guests, collectively referred to as the “Architects of Life” program. This initiative aims to be the “most comprehensive personal growth program ever offered at any resort in the world,” featuring classes like yoga, tai chi, meditation, sound baths, soul readings/chakra alignments, and art sessions. Some offerings, like the cacao ceremony where participants enjoy a cacao- and corn-infused drink, draw inspiration from ancient Toltec and Mayan traditions.

Honestly, I hadn’t explored alternative lifestyles much before this journey. I’ve never had the patience for meditation, couldn’t define reiki, nor do I know how many chakras exist in the human body. I don’t possess any crystals. However, I am familiar with my astrological birth chart, but that seems like a requirement for women my age who spend too much time online. Still, I pride myself on being open-minded—plus, I could definitely use some rest, relaxation, and time to focus on self-improvement goals as the new year approaches.

Palmaia features 234 rooms spread across seven ocean-facing, white-washed buildings. Each structure is named after the Pleiades, or the Seven Sisters constellation, referencing the twin brothers Hunalhpú and Ixbalamqué, who became stars in this constellation after their death, as told in the Mayan sacred text, the Popol Vuhl. All accommodations offer oceanfront views, with 42 swim-out suites equipped with floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors that lead directly to the property’s infinity pools. Families are welcome, with a dedicated wellness program for children, but there are adults-only buildings and pools for those preferring a quieter atmosphere.

Upon arriving on my first day, I was immediately captivated by the tranquility of Palmaia. Aside from the gentle rustling of leaves and the soft sound of my feet on the cobblestones, the silence was profound. The resort sits at the intersection of dense jungle and renowned beaches, rich with natural beauty. One afternoon, I spotted a spider monkey swinging between branches, and on another day, I saw an agouti, an endangered rodent similar to a guinea pig, scurrying across the sand. Notably, four cenotes are located on the property—one near the spa, which guests can swim in if they schedule an appointment.

For those who follow a vegan or vegetarian lifestyle, Palmaia offers a worry-free experience: all five restaurants—LEK, which serves elevated Mexican cuisine; Ume, a dinner venue that highlights Asian flavors (including vegan sushi); Mar de Olivo, focusing on innovative Mediterranean dishes; Plantissa, a bistro for breakfast and lunch; and Su Casa, a casual beachside eatery—are health-oriented and vegan-friendly. However, meat, dairy, and eggs can be added to meals upon request. (As a non-vegan, I fully took advantage of this option.) I was amazed at the variety of plant-based dishes offered, from the best meatless chilaquiles I’ve ever had to eggs Benedict featuring an impressively realistic and rich truffle-based egg “yolk,” complemented by perfectly crisp vegan croissants.

Executive chef Carlos Garcia, affectionately known as chef Charly, is a trailblazer in plant-based cuisine and follows a vegan lifestyle. Interestingly, he began his culinary journey in one of Mexico City’s top steakhouses but chose to embrace veganism in 2016, motivated by the environmental impacts and ethical dilemmas associated with meat consumption. I ask Garcia about the challenges of creating vegan versions of traditional Mexican dishes, which often revolve around meat.

“Not at all,” he responds with a chuckle. “It’s incredibly simple. Historically, there were cultures in Mexico that thrived on plant-based diets long before the arrival of the Spanish.”

During my five-day stay at Palmaia, I aimed to immerse myself in wellness by attending seven different classes. One session involved a spiritual guide interpreting my essence—after I repeated my name three times, the guide provided insights into my metaphysical condition, using a somewhat cryptic metaphor about candied apples and the importance of making time for myself. Another class saw me joining a “Sacred Women’s Circle,” exploring the mystical aspects of femininity. However, the session that resonated with me most was the forgiveness circle, intended to “release emotions and physical issues through forgiving others, seeking forgiveness, and forgiving ourselves.” Initially, I was hesitant to attend—I don’t fully subscribe to the notion that forgiveness is essential for moving forward and leading a fulfilling life. I believe that the burden of forgiveness can weigh heavily on those wronged, and sometimes it may not even be feasible.

Sitting on my yoga mat in the Japanese-inspired meditation room, I can’t shake my anxiety about what lies ahead and what will be required of me. Unlike the smaller classes I had attended before, this session is packed with people. Our guide, seated quietly at the front on a blanket surrounded by her instruments—bells, flowers, and a telling box of tissues—invites the room into silence.

“Let’s begin by sharing what forgiveness means to each of us,” she suggests.

As attendees take turns expressing their interpretations of forgiveness, I realize I’m not alone in my struggles. One participant wonders who forgiveness truly serves, while another from Ukraine confesses her inability to forgive the invading forces in her homeland. By the end of the sharing, many are in tears. We then lie back on our mats to practice breathwork, a technique designed to mimic hyperventilation. Our guide begins to sing, creating a symphony of exhales, cries, and wails, and I feel tears welling in my own eyes.

Stepping outside into the sunlight, everything feels subtly altered. What is forgiveness, and who truly benefits from it? I still don’t have a clear answer. Yet, experiencing a sense of kinship and understanding with a room full of strangers in this beachside paradise feels like an answer to a question I hadn’t even asked. Although I’m not ready to express love to strangers just yet, the world around me seems softer and more compassionate in the weeks that follow.

Getting there

The nearest airport to Palmaia, the House of Aia, is Cancun International Airport. It takes about 80 minutes to drive through Playa del Carmen to the hotel. While shuttle services aren’t included in the stay, there are plenty of taxis and private vehicles available for hire at the airport. Palmaia can also arrange airport transportation for an additional charge.