A Foodie’s Guide to the 20 Arrondissements of Paris

Radiating outwards from the heart of the city, Paris’s 20 numbered arrondissements serve as distinct administrative zones. They largely overlap with the city’s naturally developed neighborhoods, though some areas, like the Marais, span across both the 3rd and 4th arrondissements. Each arrondissement boasts its own unique character, from the luxury boutiques and grand palaces in the first to some of the finest Chinese dining and the iconic Père Lachaise cemetery in the twentieth.

While many visitors flock to the central arrondissements along the Seine—particularly the 1st, 4th, 6th, and 7th—each arrondissement offers its own delights. Staying in the center provides easy access to major tourist sites, but if you're seeking proximity to excellent dining and vibrant nightlife, the 2nd, 10th, 11th, 19th, and 20th are often the best choices. Here’s a rundown of every neighborhood, from the iconic to the hidden gems, with quick tips on the best dining spots in each.

1st Arrondissement

The 1st is filled with luxury brands, upscale hotels, the Louvre, and office buildings, leading to a plethora of mediocre restaurants aimed at busy professionals and indifferent tourists. However, this area is also home to Rue Sainte-Anne, known as Little Tokyo, where you can enjoy delicious udon, ramen, or soba when you’re craving something different from traditional French cuisine. Bubble tea has also become incredibly popular here, as well as throughout Paris. Note that many Mytouries in this business-centric district often close on weekends. How to say it in French: Le premier.

2nd Arrondissement

This area buzzes with energy at night, thanks to the cocktail bars that populate Rue Saint-Denis, along with the historic community of sex workers who are part of the scene. By day, it presents a unique blend of a gritty wholesale textile hub, the formal stock exchange, and charming markets on Rue Montorgueil. Don’t miss Rue du Nil, home to Terroirs d’Avenir, a collection of specialty food shops that cater to nearly every restaurant in the city, as well as chef Grégory Marchand’s trio of establishments: Frenchie, Frenchie Wine Bar, and the new Italian venture L’Altro Frenchie. While you might not plan to indulge in a hot dog in Paris, the historic cocktail bar Harry’s serves up one of the finest versions, complemented by classic cocktails. For a great vegetarian option, check out Tekes as well.How to say it in French: Le deuxième.

3rd Arrondissement

Ah, the Haut Marais, a place where macaron tosses reveal a plethora of third-wave coffee shops and stylish fashionistas. You’ll find plenty of kale chips, cocktails, and juice bars in this trendy area. If you're visiting during Fashion Week, it's best to steer clear of this chic neighborhood. At other times, the historic Marché des Enfants Rouges, the oldest covered market in Paris, is a popular dining spot, particularly bustling on weekends and sunny days. Inside the market, Les Enfants du Marché and the Butcher of Paris are standout choices, though be ready to enjoy your meal outdoors on high stools regardless of the weather. For delightful bistro fare and an excellent wine selection, head to Parcelles, just a short walk away.How to say it in French: Le troisième.

4th Arrondissement

In the Lower Marais, Jewish heritage intertwines with the queer community, modern art galleries, and chain shops. Rue des Rosiers is rightly celebrated for its numerous falafel stalls, but consider exploring the Parisian branch of Israeli Mytoury Miznon for some of the city's finest sandwiches. A short stroll will take you to Place des Vosges, arguably the most beautiful square in Paris. For a more formal dining experience featuring award-winning oeufs mayo, the stylishly retro Grand Brasserie near the Bastille is an excellent choice.How to say it in French: Le quatrième.

5th Arrondissement

The Latin Quarter, named for its many educational institutions like the Sorbonne, once a hub for Latin studies, remains lively with students and a constant flow of tourists, along with some tourist traps. For dependable cheese and charcuterie boards served on a lovely terrace, Bonvivant is your best option, while Chinaski provides a more inventive take on French cuisine.How to say it in French: Le cinquième.

6th Arrondissement

Saint-Germain-des-Prés is charming and offers excellent shopping, but it can feel quite touristy due to its proximity to major landmarks, museums, and parks. This formerly quiet area is experiencing a nightlife transformation, making it a vibrant spot for evening outings. Avoid the establishments popularized by Hemingway and opt for Cravan, a townhouse featuring three cocktail bars, a bookstore, and a rooftop movie screen.How to say it in French: Le sixième.

7th Arrondissement

The Eiffel Tower is the main attraction in this otherwise tranquil residential area, which can make finding good dining options a challenge. Nevertheless, the bustling Chez L’Ami Jean is known for its beloved salted-caramel rice pudding, earning it a loyal following among both locals and tourists. Another excellent choice is Café Varenne, a top-notch all-day café that deserves to be on every corner.How to say it in French: Le septième.

8th Arrondissement

Ah, the Champs-Élysées. This area is not known for its quaint neighborhood spots or charming bistros. Instead, you’ll find large international chains nestled alongside three-Michelin-star restaurants, which charge steep prices that match their opulent decor. Le Mermoz offers a refreshing alternative to the usual hype.How to say it in French: Le huitième.

9th Arrondissement

Some refer to the South Pigalle neighborhood as SoPi — but there’s no need to adopt the nickname. This area, adjacent to Montmartre, has shifted from its reputation as a red-light district to a trendy cocktail hub. You'll find fantastic independent shops, music venues, and standout Mytouries like Le Bon Georges, a bistro that everyone wishes they could call local. Rue des Martyrs, with its bakeries, cheese shops, and culinary delights, is one of the best streets in Paris for food lovers. Further south, you’ll encounter large department stores, office buildings, and the magnificent Palais Garnier opera house.How to say it in French: Le neuvième.

10th Arrondissement

This is the go-to spot for Parisians looking to picnic. On pleasant evenings and weekends, the Canal Saint-Martin buzzes with people strumming guitars and enjoying bottles of wine. Beyond the canal, the area has a youthful vibe filled with charming shops and boutiques. Visit Holybelly or Ten Belles for Australian- and English-inspired breakfasts, grab a scoop at JJ Hings, and enjoy a meal at bistro Les Arlots or the nearby wine bar Billili, conveniently situated close to Gare du Nord. If you’re not catching a train, enjoy some train-watching from the terrace of Café Les Deux Gares; this station-side spot is a must for chef Jonathan Schweizer’s inventive dishes.How to say it in French: Le dixième.

11th Arrondissement

It comes as no surprise that some of the finest dining in Paris is not found amid the chaos of tourist hotspots in the city center. Instead, many of the most vibrant restaurants are nestled in the northeastern neighborhoods, particularly in the historically working-class 11th arrondissement, where affordable real estate has fostered entrepreneurial spirit. The high density of noteworthy bars and restaurants makes the 11th an excellent base for food-loving travelers, regardless of other plans. Enjoy great meals and drinks at Mokonuts, Clamato, Tapisserie, Cafe du Coin, Jones, Le Repaire de Cartouche, Kubri, Gramme, Fulgurances, BMK Folie Mericourt, and Le Tagine.How to say it in French: Le onzième.

12th Arrondissement

This area is anchored by the Bastille and the Bois de Vincennes, buzzing with lively spots frequented by study-abroad students alongside chic natural wine shops and bars. The Marché d’Aligre ranks among the best open-air markets in the city; visit before noon, then stroll the Promenade Plantée, which inspired New York City’s Highline. Close by, Passerini stands out as one of the city’s finest Italian Mytouries. Near Gare du Lyon, stop by L’Esprit for an excellent coffee or brioche before grabbing a creative cheese sandwich from Olga to go.How to say it in French: Le douzième.

13th Arrondissement

The 13th arrondissement is packed with Asian restaurants, but don’t miss standout pho spots like Pho 14 or Chào Bà. The Butte-aux-Cailles area offers a quirky hillside retreat, home to the original Chez Gladines, a beloved budget-friendly mini-chain famous for its generous portions among students.How to say it in French: Le treizième.

14th Arrondissement

Montparnasse often resembles a vast shopping center, largely due to the Montparnasse Tower, a skyscraper straddling the 14th and 15th arrondissements. Although it provides one of the best panoramic views of Paris, the building remains a point of contention in a city known for its harmonious architecture. Instead of visiting the tower, explore the Catacombs, the city’s historic underground burial site. If the sight of all those skeletons doesn't spoil your appetite, treat yourself to a meal on Rue du Montparnasse, home to Breton creperies like Josselin, famous for its delicious buckwheat galettes and salted-caramel crepes. You can also try L’Assiette, a top choice for traditional French cuisine.How to say it in French: Le quatorzième.

15th Arrondissement

Much like New York's Upper East Side, this residential neighborhood is charming yet uneventful, home to many young families and retirees. As a result, most places close early and are shut on Sundays. Traditional bistros abound, making classic French cuisine a solid choice. Au Roi du Café has a timeless appeal, appearing as if it has stood the test of time, despite being a new venture from the creators of Café Varenne in the 7th. For something a bit trendier and modern, visit the natural wine bar Les Jajas de Juju, which feels at home in hip areas like Belleville or the 11th, yet stands out in the more subdued 15th.How to say it in French: Le quinzième.

16th Arrondissement

In le Seizième, a mix of embassies and old French wealth creates a unique atmosphere, where many elderly residents seem indifferent to their dogs' messes. It has a feel similar to the areas around the Eiffel Tower or parts of the 8th arrondissement, but without the influx of tourists. Dining options are limited here, with the exception of the table d’hôtes (fixed-price menu) at celebrity butcher Hugo Desnoyer and the exquisite fare at Comice.How to say it in French: Le seizième.

17th Arrondissement

This area is increasingly attracting young professionals, leading to a vibrant scene of wine bars and restaurants. La Félicité is a delightful neighborhood wine bar, while Gare au Gorille offers a carefully curated modern French menu. The vicinity of Batignolles park and Villiers is perfect for market shopping and leisurely walks.How to say it in French: Le dix-septième.

18th Arrondissement

Make sure to wear comfortable shoes when exploring the hilly, cobblestone streets of Montmartre and Goutte d’Or. This lively area, known for its sex shops, the Moulin Rouge, and Paris's only vineyard, is also near bustling flea markets, making it a colorful, diverse, and sometimes sketchy neighborhood. The French liken it to a very Brooklyn vibe. For natural wine and small plates, check out Poney Club; Atelier P1 for delightful baked goods; Mehmet for tasty kebabs; and the charming Clove Coffeeshop, a peaceful retreat amid the tourist chaos.How to say it in French: Le dix-huitième.

19th Arrondissement

Parc de la Villette, the city’s third-largest park, was once the site of Paris’s slaughterhouses, making it a fitting location to dine at the classic steakhouse Au Boeuf Couronné just across the way. Buttes-Chaumont, a former quarry, is one of the most stunning parks in the city, offering breathtaking views perfect for a picnic. With its rich revolutionary history and vibrant immigrant culture, Belleville is an exciting culinary hub, featuring fantastic cocktails at Combat, Chinese-Italian fusion at Cheval d’Or, and refined seafood at Soces.How to say it in French: Le dix-neuvième.

20th Arrondissement

The historically working-class areas of Belleville and Ménilmontant now host a vibrant Chinese community and many young newcomers. Le Baratin is a beloved local spot known for its soulful classic French cuisine, while Paloma boasts the most creative set lunch menus in the city. Pay respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison at Père Lachaise cemetery, then explore charming restaurants like Caché, Amagat, and Santa Silvia, all hidden away on quaint cobblestone streets.How to say it in French: Le vingtième.

Catherine Down is a James Beard-nominated food writer who has spent the last decade in Paris. She contributes to the New York Times, Condé Nast Traveler, Trip Advisor, and Travel & Luxury, among others. Ciao Down is her creative agency that specializes in crafting culinary events, custom private food tours, and travel itineraries across France.