Color, Celebration, and Revelry: Grenada’s Carnival is Back

When Caribbean nations started announcing the return of Carnival after a pandemic pause earlier this year, my excitement soared. I was flooded with memories from my annual visits over the past eight years to islands like Trinidad, Barbados, Anguilla, Antigua, and the Cayman Islands, each a vibrant reminder of the essence of freedom.

Carnival's history is intertwined with this very essence—enslaved Africans, barred from joining the plantation owners' festivities, crafted their own expressions of autonomy through song, dance, and attire. The burning of sugarcane, the splattering of paint and powder, the sounds of steel pans and cowbells—these enduring symbols of joy and resistance are still central to Carnival. Experiencing it firsthand is irresistible, prompting my eager return for Grenada’s own celebration, known as Spice Mas. This marks my second immersion into the festivities of this eastern Caribbean island, famously called the Spice Isle for its abundant nutmeg and spices.

Taking a breather before the whirlwind of Carnival parties (known as fetes) is essential, so I checked into the sleek Silversands Grenada for some much-needed relaxation. This luxurious resort is located on Grand Anse, one of the island's finest white-sand beaches, but the highlight is the impressive 350-foot pool that greets you at the lobby entrance, flowing toward the ocean. The property features thirty-nine rooms, four suites, and nine pool residences, with two restaurants—Grenadian Grill and Asiatique—offering Caribbean and Asian delicacies, respectively. Anticipating a sleepless schedule ahead, I indulged in a soothing massage at Silversands’ tranquil spa and made the most of my time in a shaded cabana by the pool.

Then the festivities kicked off: fetes on boats and shores, all alive with soca music and rum; strangers linked arm-in-arm, jumping in sync; bodies dancing closely; radiant smiles lighting up thousands of faces; a quick nap before dawn to do it all over again, joyfully. If you doubt that adults can experience the same glee as children, just book a ticket to a Caribbean carnival.

On my second day, I rose early to engage in a Grenadian tradition that is both sacred and deeply rooted: playing jab. Also referred to as j’ouvert, this celebration invites people to gather before sunrise for hours of dancing, chanting, and symbolic acts of rebellion that honor the defiance of enslaved Africans. Participants wear devil horns to mock colonizers, cover themselves in tar-colored paint to celebrate Blackness, and drag broken chains to signify liberation from slavery. By sunrise, my body, like hundreds of others, was adorned in black paint and oil.

On Tuesday, the island came alive with vibrant costumes for the final parade. This year, I participated in “mas” (short for masquerade) with a band called Oro. Our costumes sparkled with black sequins and feathers reminiscent of Maleficent, alongside bright yellow and the dazzling pink of my crown. We danced for hours on the road, united by the rhythms of soca and a shared yearning for these streets. At night, trucks lined the curb, blasting music and serving rum in plastic cups, and the atmosphere was electric.

Grenada’s carnival may be smaller compared to the grand celebrations of other islands, and while I selfishly wish it stays that way, it seems unlikely. The allure of Carnival is growing globally, showcasing the vibrant colors, movement, and age-old traditions celebrated across the Caribbean. Trinidad’s revelry is often hailed as the pinnacle of the festivities, attracting visitors from as far away as Japan, but just northwest, Grenada offers its own unique magic, untouched by commercialization and deeply rooted in traditions like jab.

I plan to return not just for Carnival next year; Grenada has captured my heart as a place I might one day call home. During my first visit six years ago, I stayed at Spice Island Beach Resort—the Caribbean’s only Black-owned five-star luxury resort. That experience introduced me to the island’s warm hospitality and the charm of Grenadian culture. I still reminisce about the delicious grilled kingfish, curry roti, and an incredibly potent rum punch, which rank among the best meals I've enjoyed at a hotel. The sunsets from Spice Island's prime location on Grand Anse beach are truly extraordinary, with the turquoise ocean swallowing a fiery orange sun against a fuchsia sky, a sight that’s difficult to capture, despite countless attempts with my camera phone.

In St. George, pastel-hued homes perched on the hillsides shimmer down to the yacht-filled waters below. My favorite way to bid farewell to the island is at BB’s Crabback, a family-run restaurant with a view of St. George’s Harbour, serving fresh daily catches like mahi mahi, curried goat, and my personal favorite: crabback. This delightful dish features fresh crab meat combined with herbs, wine, and cheese, stuffed back into the shell and accompanied by warm bake (deep-fried dough). This final meal was just as memorable as the first time I enjoyed it years ago, encapsulating my entire experience on the beautiful Spice Isle.

For more information on traveling to Grenada, check out Pure Grenada.

To stay updated on upcoming Carnival band launches, visit Oro Carnival.