Considering a Trip to Antarctica? This Cruise Does It Right.

You can't fully grasp Antarctica: its enormity, unpredictability, and peril make it a realm so distinct from our civilized world that it feels like a different planet altogether.

Every year, numerous cruise ships attempt to offer a glimpse of the White Continent, and due to stringent regulations, most follow similar routes. However, the experiences vary significantly. Choices range from large cruise-by trips with over 500 passengers who never disembark, to intimate sailboat adventures for the most intrepid explorers.

While kayaking in a secluded bay, surrounded by six humpback whales, I felt grateful to be with Aurora Expeditions. This Australian company is dedicated to safeguarding Antarctica’s delicate ecosystem, emphasizing adventure while ensuring comfort. Their newest vessel, the 132-passenger Sylvia Earle, is climate-neutral and boasts an onboard citizen-science center, allowing travelers to participate in studies on polar plankton, local geology, and more. During our 23-day journey on the “Antarctica Complete” cruise, we visited South Georgia Island, where we witnessed king penguins vying for territory against elephant seals the size of SUVs, and explored the Falklands, a haven for bird watchers.

Our relatively small group allowed for two daily landings or activities, compared to the single landing usually offered on larger ships. Aurora requires passengers to commit to their excursion group for activities like kayaking, snorkeling, diving, or skiing. This meant I joined a close-knit team of paddlers who grew more confident and adventurous as our journey unfolded. On land, we often had the freedom to explore at our own pace, rather than sticking to a single guided path. Even when everyone was ashore, it was easy to find moments of tranquility.

That adventurous spirit persisted during the lengthy sea days across the Drake Passage. It's common for guides to use the public address system for major sightings like a breaching whale or a pod of orcas. However, we also cherished the smaller moments. We were alerted when a pair of albatrosses flew unusually close, gliding above the ship like silent watchers. We were awakened for a breathtaking sunrise that painted the mountains in soft pinks and oranges. The message was clear: our journey wasn’t for a well-stocked bar or luxurious sauna, all of which the Sylvia Earle offers. The true reason lies beyond.