Copy My Journey: rediscovering Hong Kong's lively street markets, buzzing eateries, and Star Ferries

Alexander Howard, the Managing Editor of Destinations Content at Dinogo Planet, recently explored Hong Kong. He shares helpful tips and insights for anyone looking to plan a similar adventure.

My connection with Hong Kong goes deep. Years ago, more than I care to count, I visited as a college freshman and fell in love with its neon-lit alleys, vibrant street markets, and the lively nightlife of Lan Kwai Fong.

For this visit, I was eager to see how Hong Kong had changed. I wanted to revisit the streets and sights that had left a lasting impression during my earlier travels and experience the city anew.

Where did you stay? What was the atmosphere like?

I stayed at the Prince Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui, conveniently located near the Kowloon waterfront and just a block from a Mass Transit Railway (MTR) stop. This hotel is ideal for both business and leisure travelers, featuring decor that is professional yet unremarkable. You’ll find generic abstract art alongside vibrant accent walls in shades of green, red, or yellow. The breakfast buffet offered a nice mix of Western dishes like eggs and bacon, alongside Eastern options such as steamed buns and noodles. Opting for a room with harbor views is definitely worth the additional cost.

What was the best dish you tried?

In a city famed for its culinary delights, this question feels like choosing a favorite child. If pressed, I’d go with Hutong. Perched on the 28th floor of the H Zenter building in Tsim Sha Tsui, Hutong is one of Hong Kong's top dining spots. Its design elegantly fuses traditional Chinese elements with modern flair: dark wood furnishings evoke the narrow alleyways of Beijing, while large windows provide breathtaking views of the Hong Kong skyline and harbor. The view is particularly magical during the nightly 8 pm light show.

The highlight of the meal is undoubtedly the Peking duck, served with a spectacular flambé presentation at the table. Featuring the perfect blend of crispy skin and tender, flavorful meat, it comes accompanied by traditional thinly sliced cucumbers, scallions, a sweet and tangy duck sauce, and soft, warm Chinese pancakes. Other delectable offerings included dim sum (available any time), crispy red lantern soft-shelled crab spiced with Sichuan dried chili, and bok choy gently poached in fish broth.

What was the most surprising activity you enjoyed?

Exploring the historically working-class district of Sham Shui Po. This area, in stark contrast to the glitzy central districts, is a place where traditional trades and community life persist amidst the rapid modernization of the city.

During my trip, I made sure to visit Kung Wo Tofu Factory, a modest yet Michelin-starred spot that has been crafting bean curd dishes for over 60 years. Their bean curd pudding, a simple yet iconic dessert made from coagulated soy milk, beautifully showcases the area's culinary heritage—one that flourishes without ostentation. I topped it off with a generous spoonful of pink cane sugar for extra sweetness.

Sham Shui Po's bustling markets and shopping centers are another compelling reason to visit. The vibrant Apliu Street Flea Market was particularly lively in the evening, attracting locals eager to bargain after work. This market offered an eclectic mix of items, from tools and lighting to various trinkets, providing a fascinating glimpse into the daily lives of Hong Kong residents.

Toy Street presented a delightful contrast to the more utilitarian offerings. This market lane, filled with stalls of whimsical trinkets, buzzed with the sounds of beeping toys, chirping plastic creatures, and locals making purchases. It’s a place where both children and adults can discover something to ignite their curiosity. I even found a plastic robot with flashing eyes that delighted my four-year-old son back home.

What was the most touristy activity you participated in?

I took a ride on the Peak Tram to Victoria Peak, a must-do experience for many visitors. Operating since 1888, it ranks among the oldest funicular railways in the world. The dramatic ascent from 28m (92ft) to 396m (1299ft) is quite an engineering marvel. However, the experience was somewhat overshadowed by the throngs of tourists and the commercial vibe at the peak—complete with a Bubba Gump Shrimp restaurant and Madame Tussauds, which sets the tone for what to expect. While the view from the top is enjoyable, it doesn't quite match the hype, as you may find yourself squeezing between crowds to catch a glimpse of the cityscape.

For those seeking a quieter yet equally breathtaking experience, I recommend an alternative: watching the sunrise from Lugard Road. Take a taxi to Victoria Peak, then follow Lugard Road as it meanders along the northern side of the mountain. This path offers a much more serene opportunity to admire Hong Kong's skyline as it transitions from the vibrant cyberpunk lights of the night to the calm awakening of the city.

What was your preferred mode of transportation?

Hong Kong boasts numerous excellent ways to navigate, but my top choice is the Star Ferry. This iconic service has connected Hong Kong Island and Kowloon since 1888, well before the advent of modern alternatives. A ride is not only steeped in history but also efficient and offers stunning views. Crossing Victoria Harbour provides a quick yet picturesque glimpse of the city’s skyline and surrounding areas, costing just HK$4 (approximately US$0.50) for the lower deck.

This ferry may not be a luxury cruise, but it serves as a vital part of public transport. It's dependable and straightforward, with its low cost and regular service making it a smart option for travelers moving between the island and the mainland. Each journey also provides a moment to unwind from the city’s fast pace.

What do travelers need to know before visiting Hong Kong?

Most international visitors fly into Hong Kong International Airport, which accommodates over 100 airlines, including the local favorites Cathay Pacific and the budget-friendly Hong Kong Airlines, alongside major US carriers like American Airlines and United. US travelers can find nonstop flights from cities such as Boston, LA, New York, Chicago, and San Francisco, while Europe sees nonstop services from London, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, and more.

From the airport, the easiest way to reach the city is via the Hong Kong Mass Transit Railway's (MTR) Airport Express. This train swiftly takes passengers to Kowloon (HK$185 round trip) and Hong Kong Island (HK$205) in as little as 24 minutes. Plus, you can enjoy complimentary onboard wi-fi to catch up after your flight.

To navigate public transportation smoothly, consider getting an Octopus card. This rechargeable card is accepted on buses, trams, ferries, and the MTR, making it a convenient option for traveling around the city.

While Uber is available in Hong Kong, rideshare services are illegal unless the driver has a permit. An interesting aspect of the app is its option to request a regular licensed taxi, allowing for cashless payments—a significant perk since most taxis in the city only accept cash. However, this convenience often comes at a higher fare compared to hailing a traditional metered taxi on the street.

Hong Kong tends to be quite humid, particularly during the summer months. Even in late November, I found myself sweating while strolling around in jeans and a t-shirt. Opting for lightweight, breathable fabrics will enhance your comfort while exploring the city.

Cash is often preferred in smaller establishments. While many places do accept credit cards, local shops, eateries, and markets frequently favor cash transactions or may only accept cash altogether.

Alexander's trip to Hong Kong was made possible by an invitation from the Hong Kong Tourism Bureau. Contributors to Dinogo Planet do not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable reviews.