Cycling Taiwan: A 12-Day Adventure Around the Island

The policewoman activates her siren and says, “Let’s go.”

A mechanical issue with my bike hardly seems like a reason for a police escort through downtown Chihshang to locate a repair shop. But Cycle Route No. 1 – a full circumnavigation of Taiwan by bike – is not something to take lightly.

Launched in 2015, the 602-mile (968-kilometer) route is quickly becoming one of Asia’s top biking destinations – and a bucket-list goal for cycling enthusiasts in Taiwan.

The moving images

Taiwan’s passion for cycling took off in the 1980s with the rise of local bike manufacturer GIANT.

The availability of affordable bicycles coincided with Taiwan’s shift from a fast-paced industrial society to one where leisure and health became key priorities.

“My grandfather wasn’t wealthy and worked tirelessly,” says Stephen Chen, founder of Taipei’s Panagoe cycle tours. “Today, our generation lives in a more prosperous society, with greater wealth and time for recreation and wellness.”

By the mid-2000s, significant government investment in cycling infrastructure had already been made when Taiwanese director Chen Huai-en’s cult film, “Island Etude,” arrived. The movie follows a boy’s solo journey of self-discovery as he cycles around Taiwan’s coastline, marking a rite of passage.

The film captured the imagination of the Taiwanese public, and soon after, Cycling Route No. 1 was born. Inspired by the movie, cyclists began traversing the country’s coastlines well before the route was officially marked in 2015.

The adventure begins

The circular route around Taiwan usually takes between 10 and 12 days to complete and is not recommended for novices. The starting point, marked by a “0 kilometer” sign, is located at Taipei’s Songshan Station.

The route combines dedicated cycling paths, quiet rural roads, and bike lanes on busier streets. Most cyclists begin in the flatter western region to build endurance before tackling the more challenging terrain of the eastern coast.

Before reaching Kaohsiung, the western route offers a glimpse into Taiwan’s rural beauty. Cyclists pass by lush green rice fields and ocean-facing Taoist temples dedicated to the sea goddess Matsu.

As cyclists approach Taiwan’s southernmost point, they’ll find a unique bike-themed hotel nestled along the dune-backed beaches of Kenting National Park.

The Yoho Bike Hotel, Asia’s first bike-focused accommodation, opened in 2009. It features a quirky bike spa where guests can treat their bicycles to a little TLC. The route attracts cyclists of all skill levels and ages.

Michael Chung, 71 but fit in his sleek Spandex, is training with his brother on the 11-mile Hsinchu coastal cycleway, planning to take on the island-wide route in the near future.

“Cycling helps me stay in shape as I age, and I’ve never had the time to explore my own country,” Chung says. “At my age, this might be my last shot,” he laughs.

University student Huang Yua-Hao takes a break at one of the many roadside rest stops, where cyclists can access route maps, enjoy free water, and use tire pumps.

“I want to explore all of Taiwan while I’m still free from the commitments of a career and family,” says Huang.

The journey picks up speed

While the west coast offers scenic calm, it’s just the beginning. After rounding Taiwan’s southern tip, the eastern coast is a rugged challenge, with 286 mountain peaks soaring over 9,843 feet (3,000 meters). Cycling through this hilly terrain is both exhausting and exhilarating.

The route takes cyclists through Taiwan’s indigenous tribal regions and forests teeming with lively macaques. In An Tong, a coastal haven famous for its hot springs, volcanic mineral onsens offer a rejuvenating soak for tired muscles.

“Taiwan’s landscapes are incredibly varied, and cyclists get to experience so many different views along Route No. 1,” says Chen.

“From mountains to plains, ocean vistas to towering peaks like Dayuling, the scenery attracts many adventurous cyclists eager to take on the challenge,” he adds.

The final leg of the journey

The most dramatic part of the ride lies further north, beyond Hualien City, in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Taroko Gorge. Here, aquamarine rivers cut deep gorges through Taroko’s gleaming marble peaks.

It’s a challenging ascent to Taroko’s highest point, towering at 10,745 feet (3,275 meters).

After Taroko, cyclists tackle the Suhua Highway, Taiwan’s most mountainous route. Cliff-side roads hug the coast, often dangerously close to steep ocean drops. The final stretch arrives as the tea plantations around Pinglin – a quiet area in northern Taiwan – signal the approach of Taipei City.

After 12 days of cycling, returning to the capital, you realize just how demanding Route No. 1 truly is. It’s so intense, you might even find yourself escorted by the police.