Discover the North End of Boston: Highlights of what to see, do, and savor in this charming Little Italy - Dinogo

I ventured to the North End (pronounced "Nah-th End") in search of the apartment where my paternal grandmother — whom I never had the chance to meet — was born in 1902. While I was on a quest for my own family history, it's hard not to absorb the rich Italian American immigrant narrative that permeates this Boston neighborhood.

My grandmother passed away long before I entered the world, and now I find myself at the same age she was when she died. Though I never got to know her, a special bond has always felt present between us.

Growing up, my parents, siblings, and I lived in a three-family house alongside my grandfather and uncles. Our shared basement was a treasure, complete with a root cellar and an extra kitchen where we made endless batches of red sauce from our garden’s tomatoes. One afternoon, at around age 7, I stumbled upon an old pedal-powered sewing machine tucked away in a dark corner. Inspired, I spent the following evenings sewing a beautiful sundress with fabric I found in the sewing machine's cabinet.

Once my dress was complete, I hurried upstairs to showcase it to my grandfather in his kitchen. Instead of the enthusiastic praise I anticipated, he remained unusually silent. He inquired how I had learned to operate the sewing machine and who had taught me the pattern. I replied that the design had appeared in my mind and I instinctively knew how to wind the bobbin and thread the machine.

In that moment, he smiled and shared that his wife, the nana I never had the chance to meet, was a gifted seamstress. I had used her sewing machine, and somehow, across time and distance, her talent flowed to me.

Ever since, I’ve felt a bond with her, even though I know little about her life. After conducting some genealogical research, I discovered her baptismal record, which revealed the address of her birthplace, along with a 1920 U.S. census listing her address just before she married my papa. This inspired me to visit the North End to find the home where her parents settled in 1896 after immigrating from Sant'Elia Fiumerapido, Italy.

I enjoyed a leisurely walking tour that you can replicate on your next visit to Beantown. Here’s all you need to ensure a successful adventure, featuring Paul Revere's house, Sicilian pizza, and delicious cannolis.

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Essential information to consider before your visit

Before you set off for the North End, it's wise to familiarize yourself with the area.

The North End is an oval-shaped stretch of land extending from downtown Boston, bordered by Route 93 and the Rose Kennedy Greenway. Christopher Columbus Waterfront Park — located near the Boston Marriott Long Wharf — marks the southern edge, while Boston's Inner Harbor serves as the natural boundary to the north and west.

East Boston and Logan International Airport (BOS) lie across the water from the North End, where you can find all the wharves. (My other side of the family settled in East Boston after immigrating from Calabria.) You can easily cross between East Boston and the North End through the Sumner and Callahan tunnels.

Begin your exploration at Haymarket or North Station

The North End is very pedestrian-friendly, but finding parking can be a challenge. Your best option is to park elsewhere and take the MBTA Green Line subway to the Haymarket stop. One-way fares are $2.40, and ticket machines are available at each station.

If you're driving, park at Haymarket Garage (also known as Parcel 7) located at 136 Blackstone Street (use the Waze app to help you find it, as it's somewhat tricky to locate). Some establishments in the North End, like Mike's Pastry, Regina Pizzeria, and select vendors at the Boston Public Market, offer parking ticket validation for this garage, allowing you to pay just $3 for three hours. Just be careful not to exceed your time limit, or you'll be charged full price.

Kick off your North End tour at Haymarket and walk counterclockwise around the area.

Note: If you prefer to arrive by train or subway at North Station (or if you park at the North End Garage at 600 Commercial Street), you can easily do this tour in reverse. Start at North Station, walk east along Causeway Street until it becomes Commercial Street, and begin your sightseeing at Copp's Hill Burying Ground, visiting the attractions in a clockwise direction.

However, I began my tour from the Haymarket subway stop.

Hanover Street

Hanover Street serves as the North End's "main drag," featuring many of the neighborhood's oldest and most beloved sites, shops, and eateries. After leaving the Haymarket Garage, exit onto Sudbury Street, turn right onto John F. Fitzgerald Surface Road, and then take a left onto Hanover Street. You'll walk through the Rose Kennedy Greenway, and as you leave that park, you'll officially step into the North End: Boston's Little Italy.

My trip to the North End was part of a heritage tour to learn more about my ancestry. You might also be exploring your Italian roots while in the area. But the North End has so much more to offer. Several key Freedom Trail sites are located within its borders, which I'll highlight as well.

If you can, allocate enough time to explore the entire 2.5-mile Freedom Trail, which features 16 historical sites that hold great significance to American history.

Bring cash

Now, let’s discuss finances. The shift to contactless payments hasn't fully reached many of the traditional shops in the North End. Some bakeries and pizzerias, in particular, accept cash only. Be sure to find an ATM before you venture into the neighborhood. There's a cash machine at 218 Hanover Street and another one across the street from Modern Pastry (at the beginning of your tour) in the Bank of America Financial Center at 260 Hanover Street.

Stop 1: New England Holocaust Memorial and the Tony DeMarco statue

Upon exiting the Haymarket subway station, take an immediate right onto Sudbury Street, then turn right onto Congress. Walk against traffic for one block. At the intersection of Congress and Hanover Street, you’ll discover the New England Holocaust Memorial. While it’s not directly at the entrance of the North End, it’s a meaningful stop to make before your tour to reflect on its significance.

Turn left onto Hanover Street and walk a block across the John F. Fitzgerald Expressway, where the bronze statue of Tony DeMarco stands straight ahead at 191 Hanover Street (at the intersection with Cross Street). Born Leonardo Liotta in 1932 to Sicilian immigrants, Tony grew up in the North End and became a renowned boxer, claiming the title of World Welterweight Champion.

Fun fact: My grandfather on my mother's side hailed from Calabria. He was an amateur boxer whose matches often made the headlines in Boston's newspapers back then, so encountering the Tony DeMarco statue had a personal resonance for me.

Stop 2: Enjoy a meal on Hanover Street

If you’re starting your tour during breakfast or lunchtime, consider grabbing a quick bite before diving into your exploration.

Bricco Panetteria and Salumeria & Pasta Shop

These two hidden gems are easy to overlook. Both are located down a narrow alley beside the affiliated Bricco restaurant at 241 Hanover Street. At the panetteria, descending a steep flight of stairs rewards you with the delightful scent of freshly baked Italian bread and pastries.

At street level, you'll find Bricco Salumeria & Pasta Shop at 11 Board Alley. Here, you can order extraordinary sandwiches (I recommend the porchetta/roast pork or the eggplant Parmigiano) or stock up on provisions like cheese, olives, cured meats, and pasta for later.

These two locations are where locals in the North End go for their bread, pastries, and sandwiches. Make sure not to miss them!

Modern Pastry

If you find yourself near Modern Pastry (263 Hanover Street) during breakfast hours, step inside this family-owned shop. Established in 1931, it boasts a long history, though there are bakeries in the area that have been around even longer. We’ll highlight those later.

At Modern Pastry, the "must-haves" include sfogliatelle (a flaky pastry stuffed with ricotta), ricotta pie, cannoli, and pizzelles (thin, waffle-like cookies). This shop is also famous for its French-style macarons, but I particularly love their Italian-style pistachio macaroons and pignoli (pine nut) cookies. The line can stretch out the door, but it moves quickly.

Galleria Umberto Rosticceria

If you’re nearby during lunch or craving something savory, head over to Galleria Umberto Rosticceria at 289 Hanover Street for Sicilian pizza, panzarotti (similar to a fried calzone), and arancini (rice balls). This casual spot has been serving delicious food since 1974, and it only accepts cash. I walked by at 10:40 a.m. and noticed a healthy line already forming.

Mike's Pastry

Located just a block beyond Modern Pastry, Mike's Pastry can be found on the opposite side of the street at 300 Hanover Street. You might recognize Mike's from their mail-order service through Goldbelly. However, stopping by in person allows you to stock up on Italian goodies for your hotel room. My personal favorite here is the cucidati (fig) cookies.

Neptune Oyster

While you’re in Boston, you’ll likely want to indulge in a lobster roll, and you can find one of the best in the North End at Neptune Oyster (63 Salem Street). They offer a cold version with mayonnaise, but I recommend ordering it hot with butter. Both options come on toasted brioche buns. Reservations aren't accepted, so aim to visit before or after peak meal times to dodge the crowds.

Pro tip: If you’re searching for a lobster roll outside the North End, I have a soft spot for the hot version at Saltie Girl (281 Dartmouth Street, just around the corner from Newbury Street). The cold option is tasty as well, and both come with Saltie Girl Sea Salt & Vinegar Potato Chips.

Stop 3: North Square

After brushing off any pastry or pizza crumbs from your shirt, take a slight detour off Hanover Street by turning right onto Prince Street and then another right onto North Street to enter the North Square plaza. Locals will tell you that North Square is America’s oldest public square, serving as a gathering spot since 1649.

Sacred Heart Catholic Church

This is one of the places I was most eager to visit in the North End. Located at 12 North Square, Sacred Heart is Boston's first Catholic church. It’s where my grandmother was baptized in 1902 and where she wed my papa in 1924. Although the building is currently closed due to COVID-19, I contacted the Archdiocese of Boston before my trip, and their archival team helped me track down my grandmother's baptismal record.

What fascinates me about this church is that its story extends beyond its Catholic heritage. Built in 1833, it originally served as a worship space for sailors (the Inner Harbor is just a few blocks away). According to legend, the sailor-preacher at the church, Father Taylor, inspired Herman Melville’s Father Mapple in "Moby Dick."

In 1884, the building was acquired by a group of Italian immigrants, and by 1888, it was officially named Sacred Heart. When my great-grandfather Antonio arrived in Boston in 1896, he chose this parish as his family's spiritual home.

Although the building is currently closed, the upper nave features a stunning frescoed ceiling held up by marble columns. The lower chapel contains shrines dedicated to St. Anthony, St. Lucy, St. Therese, St. Jude, and others. This church is now part of the Saint Leonard of Port Maurice parish.

Discover where Paul Revere resided

Stroll through the square and make your way to the corner at 19 North Square to visit the Paul Revere House. This historic location is among the most renowned stops along Boston's Freedom Trail.

Currently, this historic home is open only from Wednesday to Sunday, between 10 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. For some, simply walking past may suffice. However, if you wish to explore inside, the admission fee is $6 for adults, $5.50 for seniors and college students, and $1 for children aged 5-17.

The Pierce/Hichborn House located at 29 North Square is under the management of the same organization, but it is currently closed until further notice.

Enjoy a meal at Mamma Maria right in the square

The North End boasts numerous authentic Italian eateries alongside many tourist-oriented spots. Mamma Maria (3 North Square) is a beloved institution. You can choose to dine in one of the charming rooms of the townhouse or enjoy the outdoor ambiance in the square, where the fairy lights create a magical atmosphere under the night sky.

Making reservations is essential, especially if you wish to sit outside. Don’t forget to specify your preference when booking through OpenTable. We chose to dine here on our first evening in Boston, and our table offered a wonderful view of Sacred Heart, making it a truly special experience linked to my grandparents' memories.

Stop 4: St. Stephen's Catholic Church

After exploring North Square, retrace your steps along Prince Street and turn right back onto Hanover Street, where you will find St. Stephen's Catholic Church (401 Hanover Street). Even if you choose not to enter, the beautiful gardens and statues outside are worth admiring, creating a tranquil atmosphere.

Stop 5: Paul Revere Mall and statue

Located off Hanover Street between Tilestone and Charter streets, the Paul Revere Mall and statue is a great place to take photos and enjoy some shade. The walls surrounding the mall feature plaques that highlight notable former residents of the North End and their contributions. The mall conveniently leads to the historic Old North Church.

Stop 6: Old North Church

Every American schoolchild knows that Paul Revere began his famous ride in 1775 from Old North Church (193 Salem Street). You can admire Christ Church from the outside at no charge. If you'd like to take a tour inside, it costs $5 per person (children under 6 are free).

As you make your way from Old North Church to the next destination, be prepared to exert a bit of energy as you climb the hill. It’s not a strenuous ascent, but it's worth noting if you're with someone who may have mobility challenges. Just take your time, especially on hot summer days or during icy winters when the sidewalk could be slippery.

Stop 7: Skinny House

Your next destination is Copps Hill Burying Ground, located just across from the famously narrow Skinny House (44 Hull Street). This four-story building, aptly named, is believed to be the slimmest structure in Boston, measuring only 10.4 feet at its widest point.

The house was originally constructed by a Civil War veteran as a "spite house" after his brother squandered their inheritance, leaving him this tiny piece of land to build upon.

Stop 8: Copps Hill Burying Ground

Since the onset of the pandemic, I've dedicated considerable time to exploring my family's genealogy. While wandering through a cemetery might seem unusual, there's something profoundly touching about pausing to read the gravestones and reflect on the lives each individual must have lived.

Copps Hill Burying Ground is Boston's second-oldest cemetery, dating back to 1659, well before my ancestors arrived from Italy. As you explore the headstones, you'll discover this site is the final resting place of skilled artisans and merchants who once called the North End home.

From the cemetery, you can catch a glimpse of the USS Constitution, another landmark along the Freedom Trail, located at the Navy Yard in Charlestown. You'll also see the North Washington Street Bridge spanning Lovejoy Wharf in the distance.

Stop 9: More pizza, bread, and pastries

As your North End adventure begins to wrap up, continue along Hull Street, then take a left onto Snow Hill Street. Follow it to Thacher Street to conclude your tour with some delicious food.

Regina Pizzeria

This is the renowned Regina Pizzeria (11 1/2 Thacher Street), famous for its thin-crust, brick oven pizza since 1926. If you’re in the mood for thick, Sicilian-style slices, consider skipping Regina and heading straight to Parziale's Bakery instead.

Parziale's Bakery

Retrace your steps along Thacher Street, then turn right onto Prince. After walking 1.5 blocks, keep an eye out for Parziale's Bakery on your right (80 Prince Street).

This could very well be the bakery my nana frequented. Born in 1902, she might have visited the Parziale family's establishment, which opened at 7 Charter Street in 1907 after they emigrated from the Naples region of Italy.

Now located on Prince Street, the bakery offers a wide array of bread, Sicilian pizza squares (available by the slice or tray), and of course, cookies and cannoli shells. It’s my go-to spot for cannolis, as they fill the shells only upon order, ensuring that the pastry stays crisp—nothing is worse than a soggy cannoli!

Bova's Bakery

Just around the corner is Bova's Bakery (134 Salem Street), a must-visit spot. They offer a variety of breads, and their Easter bread in spring is simply delightful. I personally love their lobster tails, while my husband is a fan of the tiramisu.

In conclusion

I absolutely adore the North End. Its compact size makes it easy for anyone to explore all the attractions within a reasonable timeframe. Plus, if you enjoy shopping, sampling baked goods, or savoring a leisurely meal, this charming Boston neighborhood is perfect for you.