Discover the untamed beauty of the Côte d’Azur by train

While the Côte d’Azur is famous for its picturesque beaches and palm trees, much of the Alpes-Maritimes—the French département nestled within it—boasts rugged alpine landscapes.

From Nice, you can easily navigate the region's lesser-known alpine backcountry along winding country roads filled with hairpin turns and eager local drivers, but for a more leisurely experience, hop on a scenic two-hour train ride that traverses fragrant pine forests and steep gorges, linking the city to Tende, a quaint border village nestled in the mountains that exudes both French and Italian charm.

Known as the Vallée des Merveilles (Valley of Wonders), this tranquil area features over 40,000 enigmatic Bronze Age stone carvings accessible via day hikes near St-Dalmas-de-Tende, one of the line's final stops. The Train des Merveilles is a remarkable feat of engineering, boasting tunnels, viaducts, and spiral tracks.

This railway serves as a vital connection for mountain communities to the coastal regions. Historically, shepherds used it to move their flocks from lush summer grazing grounds to winter shelters. More recently, it played a crucial role in delivering supplies and first responders when Storm Alex severed road access and led to tragic losses in 2020.

Setting off from Nice on the Train des Merveilles

There are at least two departures of the Train des Merveilles from Nice each day, with more available during the summer months. From June to September, and on weekends in April and October, there’s a daily scheduled service at 9:15 AM featuring an expert guide who provides live commentary in both French and English—an intriguing addition to the trip at no extra cost. This 9:15 AM train is ideal for arriving in Tende by 11:15 AM for lunch. I found the booking instructions on the SNCF Connect website somewhat unclear (“look for the guide on the platform”), so I arrived 20 minutes early. I didn’t see anyone on the platform, but the train is compact, and once onboard, I heard an announcement indicating where the guide would be located, so I found a seat in that carriage. Visually, the Train des Merveilles resembles a typical regional commuter train from Provence, though with some distinctions. It has fewer carriages and various seating options, including curved lounges designed for optimal viewing, along with ample standing areas and large windows to take in the scenery.

As the train departs, the palm trees and belle époque buildings of Nice fade quickly from view, steering away from the coastline. After traversing the city’s more industrial northeastern districts, we’re enveloped by the seasonal hues of blooming yellow broom and vibrant red poppies. The train makes routine stops at several quiet stations adorned with weathered pastel-colored station houses, though most see no passengers getting on or off.

What to anticipate on the Train des Merveilles journey

As the journey commenced, passengers began moving around the carriage early on to take in the breathtaking alpine views from every angle. We all gathered on the left side of the carriage as we approached Peillon, a quaint village nestled between mountains draped in Aleppo pines. Luckily, our train driver is familiar with the route’s highlights and slowed down as we passed below the village, providing us with a splendid view.

Marie-Stéphanie, our guide, shared insights about the railway’s history: inaugurated in 1928, it was originally designed to transport goods between Nice and the Italian city of Turin, with Tende as the current terminus (though you can transfer to Trenitalia trains to continue into Italy). The objective was to create a straight line while navigating the deep gorges that slice through the rugged landscape, necessitating the construction of impressive viaducts. Just half an hour out of Nice, we caught our first glimpse of a cascade spilling from red shale beneath a 40-meter-high viaduct.

A striking pattern emerges of tunnels cutting through mountains and viaducts spanning valleys, all framed by forests of pines and larch trees, with the occasional waterfall adding to the scenery. Before reaching Sospel, a charming Italianate town perched above the border town of Menton, we traversed a tunnel nearly 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) long—the second longest in France.

From there, we ventured into the Roya Valley, which alternates between France and Italy (though the train route firmly stays in French territory). Marie-Stéphanie informed us that the last segment of the journey sees a steep climb from 300 meters to 800 meters in elevation.

This ascent is facilitated by a pair of railway spirals carved into the mountains, an engineering feat that we don’t visually perceive but become conscious of when we emerge from tunnels high above the track we had just traveled.

A brief 15-minute stop in Breil-sur-Roya allowed most passengers to stretch their legs on the platform and grab a coffee, although it’s also the stop to visit the Ecomusée du Train des Merveilles, a vast transport museum located at the station. Almost everyone hurried back aboard as the stationmaster signaled for departure, united in our anticipation for the final destination of Tende.

Arriving in Tende

The stops starting from Breil-sur-Roya are particularly appealing to visitors and come in rapid succession: Fontan-Soarge, where you can catch a bus to the perched village of Saorge with its tranquil monastery; St-Dalmas-de-Tende, the gateway to the Vallée des Merveilles hiking trails; and La Brigue, a quaint village boasting a remarkable treasure—Sanctuaire Notre Dames des Fontaines, a 15th-century church located 4 kilometers from town, renowned for its intricate frescoes and often dubbed the Sistine Chapel of the Southern Alps.

Tende itself emerges as a vibrant collection of townhouses cascading down the hillside, all crowned with the village's characteristic grey slate roofs. As the train doors opened in Tende, we poured out onto the platform.

Most of us moved in unison towards the pedestrian-friendly old town, with its charming covered alleys known as carigiu, although I also spotted numerous backpacks and hiking poles among the crowd.

Fortunately, the tourist information office is located right across from the station; adjacent to it is the Musée des Merveilles, where captivating exhibits and artifacts explore the history of the prehistoric carvings in the Vallée des Merveilles. Be sure not to overlook it while hurrying to catch your train back.

Speaking of which, the summer train back to Nice departs at 14:44, allowing ample time to visit the ornate Collégiale Notre-Dame de l'Assomption collegiate church, known for its frescoed Baroque facade, and to enjoy a leisurely mountain lunch.

How to make it happen

A same-day return ticket from Nice to Tende on the Train des Merveilles costs €31.60. I booked my ticket a few days in advance, but like with any commuter train, you can also purchase tickets on the day of travel at the station. Unlike France’s high-speed TGVs or intercity trains, there’s no onboard food or drink service, but you’re welcome to bring your own snacks or grab a coffee and croissant from one of the kiosks at the train station. You can also pick up some treats during the lengthy stop in Breil-sur-Roya. While there’s no wifi on the train, I connected to the free wifi available at Nice station. There’s plenty of room for suitcases or backpacks, and bicycles are also permitted on board. If you’re planning a lunch out during your day trip to Tende, it’s wise to call ahead or book a table as soon as you arrive, especially since restaurants outside tourist hotspots have strict hours, typically serving lunch from noon until 2:30 PM.

Here’s more expert advice to assist you in planning your trip to France:

Wondering if you need a visa? Keep reading to find out more here. Trains, planes, and bikes: our top tips for getting around. Save this guide for essential information before your trip. Connect your journey with these other fantastic destinations to explore in France.