Discover this Hidden Gem of a National Park in Kenya, the Perfect Destination for Elephant Viewing—Find Out Where to Stay and How to Spot Them

In all of southern Kenya, the most talked-about figure is undoubtedly a 51-year-old elephant named Craig. The question “Have you seen Craig?” is common. If you respond with “not yet,” it’s usually met with a disappointed nod. He’s a regular topic at breakfast, and during lunch, people discuss him too. As the sun sets and the campfire crackles, you might hear someone ask, “What are the chances of seeing Craig tomorrow?”

One day in Amboseli National Park, while traveling with Emli Bendixen, who captured the photos for this story, and a group of safari professionals, we found ourselves taking shelter from a sudden thunderstorm in a cement building near an airstrip. Then, a text came in for my guide, Johnson Salaash. “Charlie Romeo,” the code name for Craig, had been spotted. Excitement surged through the bunker.

Someone had informed us about the location of what might be Africa's most renowned elephant: a “super tusker,” known for their massive tusks that nearly touch the ground. Over the years, Craig has become a coveted subject for photographers. Surprisingly, he’s incredibly hard to find—considering his size rivals that of the Land Cruiser we were in.

After days of searching, we finally received a tip about his location—if not exact coordinates. As soon as the rain subsided, we climbed back into our vehicle and set off for a private conservancy east of the national park in pursuit of “the big boy,” as Salaash referred to him. That afternoon, we encountered cheetahs, buffalo, hyenas, and countless birds, yet Craig remained hidden. As the sun began to set, we decided to return to camp and set an early alarm to continue our quest in the morning.

The truth is, I was never particularly keen on elephants. I can appreciate their grandeur, and I found Salaash’s passion for them contagious. However, when it comes to wildlife observation, I’m gradually becoming like my bird-watching parents. I’ve developed an ear for woodpeckers drumming on trees and an eye for eagles resting on branches. At my safari lodge, Angama Amboseli, I experienced an abundance of bird sightings even before heading out on a drive. While parked in a Land Cruiser in Angama’s driveway, I checked off species as quickly as I could raise my binoculars. One morning, I was thrilled to see a lilac-breasted roller, Kenya’s vibrant national bird, zip by like a flying neon sign. Black-headed lapwings danced through puddles along the gravel road. In the distance, beyond the thorny branches of acacia trees, two gray crowned cranes stood vigilant, surveying the terrain.

After three years of development, Amboseli has only 10 suites, yet it marks a significant achievement for Angama, the esteemed luxury lodge operator. Launched in November 2023, it’s the brand's second lodge, following the renowned Angama Mara, celebrated as one of Africa’s premier safari destinations.

Situated in the renowned Maasai Mara of southwestern Kenya, Angama Mara opened ten years ago and instantly set a new standard for safari tourism. The lodge was envisioned by Nicky and Steve Fitzgerald, a South African duo who spent decades with andBeyond, alongside their co-founder Steve Mitchell. Perched nearly 1,000 feet above the plains on an escarpment made famous by the movie "Out of Africa," it offers exceptional design, gourmet cuisine, curated wines, and resort-style amenities, representing a shift from traditional canvas camps.

Considering this background, Angama’s decision to establish a new outpost in the Kimana Sanctuary—a 5,700-acre area nestled between Nairobi and Mombasa at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro—was somewhat unexpected. Although close to Amboseli, Chyulu Hills, and Tsavo West National Parks, this region lacks the Maasai Mara's fame. However, Mitchell, who became CEO in 2022, believes the area is poised for growth.

“I truly appreciate this ecosystem,” Mitchell shared with me one afternoon as a rain shower pelted the canvas roof of the new lodge. “Our guests wish to explore these areas and connect with the locals—but they won’t do so if their comfort is compromised.” He hinted at plans for another Angama property in a different part of East Africa, along with an e-commerce site that will feature curated fashion and crafts from Kenya. “This business model merges numerous positive aspects, including professional development for Kenyans,” Mitchell noted. Many staff members at Angama Amboseli advanced from roles at Angama Mara, including general manager Collins Randiga, head guide Alice Mantaine, and camp host George Nato.

“On the conservation front,” Mitchell continued, “being here allows this area to thrive as a sanctuary for elephants and other wildlife.”

Eager to learn more, I met with Craig Millar, a fourth-generation Kenyan and the COO of Big Life Foundation, a conservation nonprofit managing over 1.6 million acres, including the Kimana Sanctuary. I sought his insights on how Angama’s expansion might enhance the Amboseli-Tsavo-Kilimanjaro ecosystem, particularly in mitigating human-wildlife conflict—a term that encompasses issues from elephants raiding crops to illegal agriculture encroaching on land designated for large wildlife.

“On safari, you might feel like you're in a bubble,” Millar shared with me over a delightful spread of farm-to-table salads at Angama Amboseli, featuring fattoush and green beans with buttermilk ranch that could easily belong in a Sonoma County eatery. “But that’s not the reality. People often think, ‘What a charming little spot in the wilderness,’ but that perception has changed.”

As we enjoyed lunch, Millar elaborated on how this region of southern Kenya, despite its remarkable wildlife, is also home to everyday individuals—many of whom are herders and farmers—striving to make a living. In a setting where an elephant could destroy your crops just before market day, the challenge is to develop a sustainable economy that respects the needs of both people and wildlife.

For Millar, luxury tourism presents a viable solution. “To ensure sustainability, we needed a truly upscale facility,” he explained. He noted that previously, the Kimana Sanctuary was occupied by mid-range lodges with less ambitious conservation goals. This shifted when Angama expressed interest. “The company asked, ‘What do you need for this area to be conserved over the next twenty years?’ ”

The partnership between Big Life and Angama has resulted in a stunning example of thoughtful architecture combined with a five-star resort atmosphere that often feels like an exclusive retreat. Angama Amboseli is designed along a central axis, branching out from a communal area that includes the kitchen, an indoor-outdoor dining pavilion, a firepit, and a well-stocked bar. Close by, a small infinity pool and a watering trough occasionally attract elephants, alongside a photo studio and a shop offering baskets, jewelry, and apparel from Nairobi-based designers.

The guest suites are each outfitted with a king-size bed offering views of Kilimanjaro, as well as passing elephants, giraffes, baboons, and other wildlife. Adjacent to the bedroom is a generous dressing area leading to a spacious double-vanity bathroom. Thoughtful details, like a fresh lemon on the drinks cabinet for cocktails or a selection of pre-stamped postcards at the writing desk, reflect the intentional design—carefully crafted yet unpretentious.

Despite the meticulous details at Angama Amboseli, my most cherished moments were the simpler ones: the ochre mud splatters from my walk to the guest area, the sun-bleached bones of a wildebeest, and lilac mushrooms sprouting from a mound of elephant dung. “Ellies love tomatoes,” Salaash remarked during one of our game drives, sharing that he frequently finds solitary vines scattered throughout the sanctuary, grown from seeds dropped by animals that ventured into a farmer’s plot.

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While we often kept our voices down during our drives, the environment was alive with a symphony of chirps, cries, and howls. I felt wonderfully unplugged — despite the camp offering Wi-Fi and cell service. My phone faded into the background as I climbed the mnara, an observation tower located northwest of the guest area, where I spotted elephants one evening while enjoying a gin and tonic and snacking on house-cured biltong. Checking the weather seemed futile: rain could appear — or vanish — at any moment. The peak of Kilimanjaro, shrouded in clouds all day to the dismay of both guests and staff, dramatically unveiled itself while Millar and I lunched. We all raced for our cameras when the snow-capped summit finally came into view.

Amid the wonders of the Kimana Sanctuary surrounding the lodge, I found Amboseli National Park, about 45 minutes away, to be the most captivating part of the ecosystem. Renowned among wildlife enthusiasts as a premier elephant-spotting locale, the park is also home to an array of other incredible species — lions, cheetahs, hyenas, giraffes, zebras — along with a dazzling display of flamingos, storks, spoonbills, and other colorful waders that parade through the marshes in seemingly endless flocks.

In contrast to the Serengeti or the Mara, Amboseli is predominantly a parched, dusty expanse for much of the year. However, it comes alive during the “short rains” of November and December, when thousands of elephants gather in its marshes to drink, feed, and cool off. We arrived early one morning and, just moments after entering the park, encountered a herd of 20 elephants casually crossing the road, seemingly unbothered by our presence.

We continued our journey, navigating through swamps where numerous animals were mired in the mud, tugging at the vegetation with their trunks. We passed shallow lakes teeming with birds, stopping intermittently to snap photos. In the far north, we reached the driest parts of the park, resembling a scene from a spaghetti western, with rust-colored earth stretching endlessly. Salaash spotted two cheetahs stealthily moving across the plain. We followed them for a while, hoping to witness a hunt, but ultimately yielded to our own hunger for lunch as the big cats lounged in the shade of a fallen tree trunk, content to wait.

Despite its rich wildlife diversity, Amboseli faces significant challenges. The Kenyan government, which designated it a national park in 1974, intends to “degazette” Amboseli, potentially reducing it to a national preserve. While this change may lower the park's operational costs, it would likely heighten the risk of environmental degradation, according to Nancy Ogonje, executive director of the East African Wildlife Society. “Amboseli is not merely a park; it symbolizes our nation's dedication to the future,” she stated in a recent message to supporters.

On my last day at Angama Amboseli, the skies were clear, offering a breathtaking view of Mount Kilimanjaro's summit. Bendixen and I met up with Salaash for one final excursion around the sanctuary. Earlier that morning, before dawn, he had finally spotted Craig and was eager to whisk us away in the Land Cruiser to track him down again.

A few minutes later, we broke through a thicket of trees and spotted the elephant, along with several other bulls, grazing through the underbrush. There he was: Craig, his massive tusks sweeping low and his skin shimmering with a deep reddish dust that distinguished him from the other males nearby. I rushed to snap dozens of photos, but then paused to simply soak in the breathtaking scene as the elephants moved gracefully in front of the mountain.

Craig picked up a branch here and there as he ambled closer to us. He flapped his enormous ears and effortlessly snapped a limb from an acacia tree, treating it like a mere twig. Every now and then, Salaash would adjust our Land Cruiser to keep pace with the herd.

After observing in quiet contemplation — munching on the fresh rosemary biscuits Salaash had packed — we suddenly remembered I had a flight to catch.

Back at camp, I bumped into Nato, the host, who was ecstatic to learn that I’d finally encountered the legendary super tusker after days of searching. "You went looking for Craig, but then he found you," he remarked. It seems I had always been an elephant enthusiast at heart.

Discover Kenya the Angama Way

A tour of Angama’s two lodges and mobile tented camp can be completed in about a week. I suggest beginning at Angama Amboseli, located roughly three hours southeast of Nairobi in the exclusive Kimana Sanctuary. (Angama will arrange a private transfer along smooth, paved roads.) Elephants take center stage here, and game drives can be arranged at any hour. The lodge staff can also coordinate walking safaris, bush picnics, sundowners, massages, and other tailored experiences.

Next, think about flying privately to the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Scenic Air offers charters operated by friendly pilots who delight in pointing out wildlife and sights like the breathtaking Lake Natron. From the airstrip, a driver will transport you along dirt and gravel roads to Angama Safari Camp, a mobile camp often located right beside the Mara River. The collection of four guest tents, each featuring an en suite bathroom and a bucket-fed, solar-heated shower, was a COVID-era innovation. Now, it’s available for full buyout ($7,295 for up to eight guests, all-inclusive) or, during peak season, for individual bookings starting at $2,100 per person. The camp is serviced by a private staff who prepare meals over a campfire, share tales of life in the bush, and can help shoo away any wandering hippos.

A short drive leads you to Angama Mara, perched high on a cliff with a stunning view reminiscent of The Lion King over the expansive plains. Since its opening in 2015, this 30-suite retreat has been recognized as one of East Africa’s most luxurious, offering game drives, walking safaris, a swimming pool, a boutique, and a photo studio. Guests can explore the property’s organic kitchen garden, which is available for tours and serves lunch on a shaded deck — a highlight for many visitors, myself included. Angama Mara also occasionally features Maasai song and dance performances, with many performers hailing from the lodge’s own staff.

Angama offers a full-service travel desk that can handle all logistics, but for those looking to create an itinerary that includes other lodges, it’s best to consult the safari specialists listed on T+L’s A-List.

This story first appeared in the April 2024 issue of Dinogo under the headline "High and Mighty."