Discovering an Authentic Thai Night Market in Hollywood

On my first visit to atSiam, I was surprised to find a vibrant Thai night market nestled between a CVS and a Hollywood Boulevard sign. Under the softening light of a California sunset, the sky took on a hue reminiscent of Thai tea. As I strolled through the aisles, I felt both homesick and hungry. The offerings included northern khao soi noodles, southern hat yai fried chicken, and crispy roti drizzled with condensed milk; even rare bloody cockles and river prawns—dishes so tied to Thailand’s former capital of Ayutthaya that I had never encountered them abroad. Surrounded by the sounds of sizzling woks and the smell of stir-fry, I could almost believe I was in Bangkok. Instead, I found myself on the other side of the world, faced with an overwhelming number of choices. I opted for a feast of dishes: jok (a breakfast rice porridge with minced pork balls, ginger, and spring onions), kao neow moo ping (marinated pork skewers grilled and served with sticky rice), and sumptuous stewed pork ribs, perfectly balancing the rich umami with citrus and herbs. After indulging in savory flavors, I sought out something sweet and discovered the beloved creamy coconut pancakes called khanom krok, along with khanom babin, fragrant cakes made from young coconut meat popular in Bangkok’s Chinatown.

Established in late 2023, atSiam Night Market is the first of its kind in Southern California, located just a few blocks from Hollywood’s Avenue of the Stars and close to the only officially recognized Thai Town in the United States. Aside from seeing visitors bundled in winter jackets rather than summer attire, atSiam encapsulates the essence of a true Thai night market: vibrant, chaotic, filled with rich flavors and aromas, and boasting an astonishing variety of street food—Thailand’s beloved culinary democracy that unites people across diverse backgrounds.

Over 12 years ago, I left Bangkok, known in Thai as Khrung Thep, to start anew in Los Angeles. Just as food trucks have become a staple of L.A.'s cultural identity, street food remains an integral part of Thailand’s heritage. Outdoor markets are the lifeblood of communities, where goods and stories are exchanged and where many earn a living. Many of Thailand’s markets date back to the mid-20th century, crucial for distributing fresh produce throughout the city; each market functioned as a central hub supplying various neighborhoods. Often, these markets spring to life at night, transitioning vendors and changing the atmosphere. It took leaving Bangkok for me to see the markets through a new lens—to appreciate the stalls crowding the streets and the multigenerational vendors who cook around the clock. I longed for the experience of street food in hidden alleyways, a sentiment I never expected to fulfill in California—until now.

When I first meet Pongphaka Pongsamart, affectionately known as Auntie Pong, a Los Angeles transplant and founder of atSiam, our conversation begins with the words, “Gin kao rue yung?” instead of the usual “How are you?” This Thai greeting translates to “Have you eaten?” Upon mentioning that my Thai name is inspired by the term for “spring rolls,” she chuckles and replies, “We have spring rolls available at the market too!” Her genuine warmth instantly makes me feel welcomed.

AtSiam embodies this philosophy to foster a sense of belonging and community for those living abroad. “We wanted to create a space where Thais can gather when they yearn for home,” Pongsamart explains. “With authentic flavors that haven't been tailored for Western tastes.” After immigrating to the U.S. to care for her mother, Pongsamart, a former civil servant, drew from her brief culinary education in Thailand to cook as a way to reconnect with her roots and introduce others to Thai cuisine. Her initial attempt to launch a stall faced immediate shutdown by officials due to permitting issues—this was not Thailand. Luckily, her brother, Pornlert Pongsamart, was involved with the Thai Community Development Center, a nonprofit that promotes the visibility of Thais abroad, which supported the establishment of atSiam. He facilitated the connection with the organization and secured the land that now hosts the market with over 30 vendors every Friday through Sunday, year-round.

Chanchanit “Chancee” Martorell, founder and executive director of the Thai CDC, remarks, “Our passion for night markets has truly crossed the Pacific; the entire atmosphere is incredibly immersive.” Through its Asian Pacific Islander Small Business Collaborative, the center offers business and language support to immigrant entrepreneurs, helping them develop business plans, secure funding, and access loans, all while focusing on culturally significant, community-oriented, and transformative businesses. “[With atSiam], we aimed to create a venue for social interaction,” Martorell shares. “While we empower communities, we also uplift individuals.”

The Thai CDC is actively working to preserve a tradition that faces challenges back home. Recently, the Thai military government has cracked down on street vendors in Bangkok, prompting widespread protests. As part of a campaign to clear the streets, authorities began evicting vendors regardless of their permits, citing traffic and hygiene concerns. Nevertheless, street markets find a way to persist, even across the Pacific. Amidst its own struggles with L.A. County shutdowns and false starts, atSiam has evolved into more than just a market. It serves as a community hub, a small-business incubator, and a safeguard against cultural erosion—a place where Thais far from home unite, celebrating the resilient spirit of immigrant entrepreneurship. “[Night markets] hold great significance for us,” emphasizes Narinchot “Bruno” Pattamatananun, the founder of Songkran Thai Street Food, one of atSiam’s beloved vendors. He highlighted their abundance and accessibility for the working class. “It’s not merely about the food.”

Like untangling the artist from their art, it’s hard to talk about a Thai market without diving into its cuisine. Thai food reflects its rich history, influenced by the spice trade, various waves of immigration, and the nation’s remarkable avoidance of colonization (the only country in Southeast Asia to remain sovereign). Even pad thai—Auntie Pong’s signature dish—has an interesting backstory. “Everyone has their own take, but true pad thai isn't overly sweet,” she confides, as if sharing a secret. “It’s aromatic, with a perfect balance of flavors, and doesn’t require extra seasoning when served.” Although debates about its origin exist, one theory suggests that former Prime Minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram created it during a rice shortage in World War II, combining noodles with local produce and a unique mix of eggs, bean sprouts, garlic, fish sauce, and chives. This serendipitous creation turned into one of the country’s most cherished dishes and, thanks to its gastronomic diplomacy, certainly its most famous.

While Thais are proud to say they've never been colonized, the culinary landscape has been shaped by influences from various cultures, including Portuguese, Chinese, and Malay. Our ancient capital, Ayutthaya, was a significant trading center, and contemporary Thai cuisine is as rich in flavor as it is in history. The traditional Thai dessert foi tong is a legacy of the Portuguese, who introduced the technique of blending egg yolks and sugar, resulting in the dish's vibrant orange color.

The vendors at atSiam elevate this culinary tradition. As third-culture Thais in the U.S., they infuse their multicultural backgrounds into their dishes, blending the old with the new. At Songkran Thai Street Food, the chicken is fried with a tempura batter enriched with lemongrass, inspired by Chef Bruno's early days in Japanese restaurants after moving to the U.S. Nearby, Bangkok Bun merges the classic Thai flavors of zesty pork laab and crispy shrimp in a cozy sticky rice burger. There’s also a Thai-Lao fusion at YaYa Lao Thai Kitchen, while Leng Saap features dishes authentically Thai, run by Korean American chefs inspired by a night market experience in Bangkok. At Siritong Foods, Thai American Kat Thongnoppakun crafts creative Thai-Mexican fusion tacos, including carne asada with fish sauce, chicken satay topped with cilantro and peanut sauce, and Thai BBQ pork. The tortillas draw inspiration from Thai roti in texture and flavor, reflecting Thongnoppakun's Asian roots and upbringing in the Latinx community. Formerly a corporate engineer, Thongnoppakun transitioned to food entrepreneurship, stating in an Instagram post, “You might be curious about what Thai Tacos even are. Well, they're my unique creation, reflecting my culture and where I grew up.”

During my latest visit to atSiam, I made my way to the final stall of the night: Songkran Thai Street Food, named after the Thai New Year. Chef Bruno greeted me with a warm smile. “Gin kao rue yung?”

I ordered a bowl of tom yum soup with minced pork. As he prepared my meal, I inquired about his culinary journey. “I’ve done everything from being a masseuse and a plumber to fixing eyeglasses,” he shared. “But food brings me joy, and I couldn't stay away from it. I aim to offer people happiness and a sense of home, and that makes it all worthwhile.”

He presented me with a steaming bowl. The warmth enveloped my hands, and tendrils of steam curled into the cool air. It was an unusually chilly winter evening in Los Angeles. I let the soup cool slightly before taking a spoonful. The broth was tangy and exquisitely seasoned, with a burst of acidity dancing on my palate. He was right—it tasted just like home.