Experience Staying at Iceland’s Most Isolated Hotel

Our Perspective

The remote central highlands of Iceland have largely remained undiscovered by most travelers, but Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll, the first year-round destination in this region from the creators of the Retreat at Blue Lagoon, is truly a revolutionary addition.

Traditionally, the central highlands of Iceland were a realm few dared to explore. Many steered clear of its glacier-laden terrain, the outlaws who once sought refuge there, and the trolls said to inhabit the mountains. For centuries, Icelanders preferred the safety of the coastlines. (Legend even has it that the Knights Templar concealed the Holy Grail within these rugged peaks.)

Beginning in the 1930s, naturalist and entrepreneur Guðmundur Einarsson ventured into the highlands to offer mountaineering classes in the Kerlingarfjöll range. (The name Kerlingarfjöll itself refers to an 82-foot volcanic rock pillar, believed to be the petrified remains of a giantess who was turned to stone by sunlight.)

The 1960s saw a surge in local interest when a ski school was established at the original Highland Base site in the Ásgarður Valley within the mountains. Over the years, thousands of Icelanders learned to ski here until the school closed in 2000 due to worsening snow conditions caused by climate change. Meanwhile, the A-frame cabins remained popular among summer hikers. The resort changed ownership multiple times, ultimately being taken over by the Blue Lagoon hoteliers in the late 2010s. They began renovations on existing buildings and constructed new ones from sustainable cross-laminated larch timber, designed to flex without cracking in cold temperatures. (All materials were selected based on BREEAM standards, the leading sustainability assessment for buildings worldwide.)

The launch of Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll in 2023, featuring more luxurious rooms and suites, has opened up the highlands to a new audience of Icelanders and international visitors who might have previously hesitated due to the area's isolation and limited amenities.

“Operating a hotel here is challenging, but that’s not a disadvantage,” stated Magnús Orri Marínarson Schram, managing director of Highland Base.

To ensure the area remains accessible for all budgets, the retreat features campgrounds situated below the main buildings, along with retrofitted original A-frame cabins and a hiking hut available for those seeking simpler accommodations. (Additionally, there are 20 hostel rooms located near the main structure.)

The hotel is dedicated to minimizing its impact on the stunning natural landscape. Constructed from sustainable materials, the hotel and its newly opened hot spring-style baths and sauna are powered by geothermal energy sourced from deep beneath the premises.

Who’s it for?

Adventurous travelers of all ages looking to ski the backcountry or hike to natural hot springs, while enjoying comforts like rain showers and spiked hot chocolate, will feel right at home here.

For those accompanying outdoor enthusiasts but preferring indoor comforts, days can be spent moving between the lagoon and sauna in the newly opened baths. Afternoons are perfect for curling up with a book and a hot chocolate on the cozy wool couches in the upstairs lounge, nestled beside the wood-burning fireplace.

Thanks to Highland Base’s remote setting, this hotel is perfect for those who have previously visited Iceland and wish to spend a few days away from the popular Golden Circle route. While Highland Base is operated by the same team behind the Retreat at the Blue Lagoon, it offers a more relaxed atmosphere without luxurious amenities, five-star service, or Michelin-starred dining.

The Location

“How did you find being in the middle of nowhere?” my driver inquired as we left Highland Base after my visit last October. He was serious—Highland Base is situated just a few miles from the island’s remote geographic center in the Ásgarður Valley, deep within the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range. The journey there takes at least three hours from Reykjavík, with part of the route on gravel roads.

After passing the iconic Golden Circle attractions like Gullfoss and Geysir, you'll find yourself on less-traveled paths, where the crowds and paved roads fade away. Prepare for a rugged journey and consider bringing Dramamine if you're susceptible to motion sickness. In snowy conditions, which can begin as early as mid-October, the drive may stretch to six hours. Travelers should be ready for unexpected weather changes and exercise patience during the trip.

During the summer months, guests can drive to Highland Base as long as they provide proof that their rental vehicle is insured for Iceland’s mountain F-roads. From July 1 to September 30, the hotel provides daily bus services from Reykjavik and Gullfoss. Due to winter road closures, access to Highland Base from October 1 to June 14 requires a 4x4 super jeep driven by a professional, which the hotel can arrange.

The Accommodations

Highland Base offers a range of upscale accommodations spread across various buildings, including 46 hotel rooms, 2 suites, and 6 lavish lodges. Each space is designed in a Nordic aesthetic featuring light wood, textured linen sheets, and cozy reading corners with expansive windows. Bathrooms are equipped with rain showers and luxurious bath products sourced from the Blue Lagoon’s exclusive skincare line. The rooms and suites are housed in a distinct building connected to the main area by an underground passage. For those seeking extra privacy and space, the six lodges are individual one-bedroom cabins, tastefully decorated in a similar style and featuring inviting sunken lounge areas.

Culinary Offerings

On-site, you'll find a cozy alpine-hut style restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Breakfast, included in the rates for rooms and lodges, is a buffet featuring a selection of meats, cheeses, breads with cucumber and tomatoes, plus eggs, sausage, and bacon. Additionally, there are freshly baked pastries, traditional Icelandic skyr yogurt, and cod liver oil shots for health enthusiasts.

While menus shift with the seasons, lunch typically includes hearty ski lodge staples such as hamburgers, a vegan roast, mushroom soup, and lamb stew. Dinner is offered à la carte during winter, presenting more refined options like salmon, cured goose, pan-fried arctic char, and roasted cauliflower for vegetarian guests. In summer, dinner transitions to a buffet format.

Indulgent desserts like brownies and skyr yogurt mousse are on the menu, but the standout treat is the daily waffle bar, available in the afternoon starting around 3 p.m. For U.S.$25, guests can enjoy unlimited fresh waffles served with whipped cream and jam. This nostalgic offering harks back to the ski school days when the enticing aroma of heart-shaped Icelandic waffles lured kids off the slopes. After a two-hour snowy hike, the scent upon entering the restaurant is incredibly inviting.

The bar serves classic cocktails, including negronis, Moscow mules, and whiskey sours, while hot chocolate can be enhanced with Jokla, a local cream liqueur.

Service and Staff

The reception is staffed 24 hours a day, and full waiter service is available in both the bar and restaurant. Daily housekeeping is provided, though turndown service is not included. The restaurant and bar team is eager to accommodate specific requests—one afternoon while working in the lounge, we inquired about hot toddies. Despite being unfamiliar with the drink, the staff quickly looked it up and delivered one of the best toddies I’ve ever tasted.

When it's time to venture into the stunning surroundings, the hotel offers guided group tours for backcountry skiing and snowmobiling during winter, as well as hiking and e-mountain biking in summer. Guests can also book private guides through the hotel for a more personalized experience.

Access and Availability

Even in its secluded setting, the hotel prioritizes accessibility for all guests. The ground floor features rooms 101, 102, and 103, which are fully wheelchair accessible. Elevators within the main building connect the ground floor restaurant, the upstairs lounge, and the downstairs baths, all designed with accessibility in mind. Although the restaurant may appear separate from the hotel room building outside, guests can access it and all its amenities through an underground passageway, providing shelter from inclement weather.

Spa and Swimming Facilities

The latest addition to the property is a bathing area featuring three geothermally heated outdoor lagoons and a sauna, which opened in 2024. Known as the Highland Baths, these facilities are heated by geothermal waters sourced from 3,200 feet beneath the hotel. Conveniently located just below the restaurant, they connect directly to the hotel, allowing guests to access them without stepping outside. Included in room rates, the Baths also feature a cold plunge pool and changing rooms. Starting from $430