Explore One of Italy’s Most Stunning and Cherished Destinations—Without the Crowds

Congratulations! I shout to a couple after accidentally witnessing their proposal. The bride-to-be acknowledges my words with a nod, brushing away tears. In the distance, the vibrant buildings of Vernazza line a gentle dock filled with small boats gliding over aquamarine waters. This spot is perfect for heartwarming, intimate moments. Yet, amidst the breathtaking beauty of Cinque Terre, finding solitude can be a challenge.

I visited Cinque Terre (which means “five lands” in Italian) in May for a weekend getaway with a friend to discover the renowned villages that give it its name—Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore—alongside its approximately 70 miles of hiking trails. With vineyard terraces, pebble beaches, and stunning Mediterranean views, this region of northwestern Italy is located about an hour and a half north of Pisa by train. It offers great value within this 15-square-mile national park, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The catch? It’s widely known: although Cinque Terre has around 4,000 residents, over 2.4 million tourists visit annually. Like many who flock to beloved destinations such as Venice and Greece, I was set on exploring while avoiding the throngs.

Exploring Cinque Terre Beyond the Tourists

To avoid mingling with the crowds of hikers, particularly on the 7.5-mile Sentiero Azzurro, starting early is crucial. Known as the “Blue Trail,” it’s the most frequented hike in the region, linking the five villages of Cinque Terre while providing breathtaking views of the Mediterranean beneath the Ligurian cliffs. To escape the crowds, plan to begin your hike by 7 a.m.

Starting our hike early in the morning from Monterosso, the northernmost village, grants us nearly complete solitude. The only sounds—our footsteps rustling the ground—induce a tranquil, meditative ambiance as we ascend steep paths and navigate uneven trails (the national park banned flip-flops in 2019 for a reason) while admiring the pink flowers lining our route. By late morning, the reality of Cinque Terre’s popularity becomes evident as interactions between hikers increase, and I frequently find myself weaving around families on the narrow trails.

The vibrancy spills into the villages as Cinque Terre Express trains consistently deliver eager tourists ready to explore each village's unique charm: Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five, attracts lively crowds eager to enjoy the water through boat and kayak rentals. Manarola leans into romance, featuring numerous venues with stunning Mediterranean views, perfect for a fresh seafood dinner (don’t miss Trattoria dal Billy—its multi-level layout maximizes the chance for a picturesque evening).

If one village were to be considered the “middle child,” it would undoubtedly be Corniglia, located right in the center of the five. Its clifftop perch provides a sense of seclusion, with tranquility just a side street away from the bustling piazza. In contrast, Vernazza’s beauty is bold and captivating: A boat dock enhances the village's charm, creating a stunning coastal scene visible from Dinogo. Vernazza is even recognized as one of the country’s most beautiful villages. Monterosso, the largest of the five and our weekend base, offers various options and the only sandy beach among the five villages.

During a coffee break in Vernazza, my friend’s hilariously oversized cappuccino—more resembling soup—highlights how accustomed the villages have become to tourists and their hefty portion sizes. Overtourism has long been a challenge, prompting various measures to address it: One section of the Sentiero Azzurro, the Via dell’Amore, will limit visitor numbers upon its reopening in July, over a decade after its closure in 2012.

Surprisingly, discovering quiet corners in Cinque Terre is easier than expected. A quick five-minute detour from the bustling gift shops to the outskirts of Vernazza reveals a peaceful atmosphere. Life here moves at a blissful pace: someone shakes out a carpet hanging from a balcony; locals exchange greetings while maneuvering a wheelbarrow down the hillside. The area feels intimate once again.

Strategies for exploring Cinque Terre without the crowds

1. Plan your visit wisely

Most sit-down restaurants don’t open until around noon, so start your day with an early morning hike to build up your appetite and avoid the peak crowd times (which are typically from late morning to late afternoon). Just be cautious not to linger too long in the villages if you're not staying overnight: The Cinque Terre Express trains run between the villages from 5 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. During off-peak hours, regional trains operate every one to two hours, depending on the village.

The busiest times are late spring, summer, and early fall. Winter sees fewer visitors, and many restaurants and shops close during this period. Consider visiting in the shoulder months of April and October. Also, be aware that Cinque Terre is a favored destination for Italian tourists, so expect crowds during national holidays like Easter and Italian Liberation Day (April 25).

2. Extend your stay

While it's possible to visit Cinque Terre in just one day—many do—the quick trip often means navigating through throngs of hikers and missing the everyday charm beyond the main squares. For a more relaxed experience and to truly explore Cinque Terre, aim to stay for at least two or three nights.

Once the day-trippers depart and others retreat to their accommodations, the villages enter a state of enchanting tranquility. A stroll through Monterosso in the evening unveils a warm glow from apartment windows and the sounds of residents enjoying dinner and washing dishes, offering a glimpse into the intimate moments of local life.

3. Explore off the beaten track

Although the Sentiero Azzuro is the most popular trail in Cinque Terre, it's not the only option. For a quieter (though more challenging) hike, consider the 1-mile La Via dei Santuari, which connects the church sanctuaries of each village. Additionally, Cinque Terre's trail network reaches the less frequented outer villages of Levanto (a four-mile hike north of Monterosso) and Portovenere (an eight-mile trek south of Riomaggiore).

Another way to escape the crowds is by booking unique experiences. Cinque Terre is renowned for its Sciacchetrà and other white wines produced from local bosco, albarola, and vermentino grapes. Scheduling a tasting at wineries like Cheo in Vernazza during peak afternoon hours not only diverts you from busy streets but also helps you avoid hiking in the midday sun.

Where to stay in Cinque Terre

While many visitors choose to stay in La Spezia for its wider range of hotel options, residing in one of the five villages allows you to enjoy the peacefulness of early mornings and late evenings.

For those who love the beach, Monterosso is an ideal base, as it boasts the only proper sandy beach. The village’s Hotel Porto Roca, conveniently located near the start of the Sentiero Azzuro, offers stunning sea views from the cliffs, along with local wine tastings and private jacuzzi options.