Hawkers work hard to preserve traditional street food

Douglas Ng, 24, stands out as a young 'hawkerpreneur' at the Golden Mile Food Centre in Singapore.

As the owner and chef of Fishball Story, Ng starts his day in the early hours to prepare for the bustling hours ahead.

Ng makes fishball dough, crafts sambal-infused chili paste, and fries crispy condiments like lard and shallots. His fishballs stand out for being made purely with yellowtail fish and seasonings, without the addition of flour, preserving the traditional method.

The future of Singapore’s hawker foods: Is this cherished tradition disappearing?

Singapore's aging hawker industry faces a bleak future, as numerous challenges threaten the survival of this once-cherished tradition.

'Our hawker culture sets us apart from other nations,' says Willin Low, chef-owner of Wild Rocket, Wild Oats, and Relish restaurants, and a leading figure in modern Singaporean cuisine. 'It brings together Singaporeans of all backgrounds, but the heritage is slowly fading.'

A key factor contributing to this decline is the lack of generational ownership transfer.

'Young people are not interested in the hawker trade,' says Ng. 'It's a demanding, low-paying job with poor work-life balance. Rent is expensive, labor is scarce, and ingredient costs keep rising.'

An increasing reluctance from locals to pay what hawkers deem a fair price for street food exacerbates the problem.

'We should enjoy kueh while we still can,' says Low, referring to the local handmade dumplings traditionally filled with turnip and bamboo shoots. He laments that the craft of making this cherished snack is becoming a dying tradition.

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The rise of a new generation of ‘hawkerpreneurs’

There is still hope on the streets. Despite the challenges facing hawker culture, a new wave of innovative 'hawkerpreneurs' is emerging.

While they may be few, their motivations appear to be genuine.

'People often ask why someone my age is joining this industry,' says Ng. 'I'm here to preserve the hawker tradition, find a way to make a living, and most importantly, be happy. I’m confident that with perseverance, I’ll succeed and show others they can do it too.'

Eight months ago, Nick Soon launched One Kueh At A Time, offering teochew kueh (a glutinous rice-based snack with sweet or savory fillings) at Jalan Berseh Food Centre.

The 40-something former insurance executive, who handcrafts all his food, views his work as a continuation of his family’s legacy.

Soon’s mother had been preparing kueh and taking orders from home since 1983. Now in her 80s and retired, Soon is determined to carry on her family tradition.

A Son’s Duty

At Jin Ji Braised Duck and Kway Chap in Smith Street Food Centre, 37-year-old Melvin Chew now runs the hawker stall his parents started when he was just five years old.

After his father passed away last year, Chew left his job as a garage technician to manage the family business full time. He starts his day at 5 a.m. and arrives at the stall by 7 a.m., working until around 8 p.m. every day.

In addition to serving traditional teochew-style kway chap (flat rice noodles in meat broth with a variety of pig offal, braised duck, and condiments), Chew has introduced a bento set to appeal to a younger generation of customers.

The set combines the stall's traditional dishes with newly added soft-centered eggs and offers a choice of yam rice or kway chap.

'We’ve been serving kway chap for over 30 years,' says Chew. 'Despite the hard work—imagine cleaning all those pig intestines and stomachs every day—and long hours, I’m committed to preserving my parents’ legacy.'

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Where creativity meets tradition

The movement to preserve Singapore’s street food has extended to more traditional restaurants, where chefs have enthusiastically reimagined the city’s beloved dishes.

At the decade-old Wild Rocket, Low offers a modern take on Singaporean cuisine, inspired by the city’s most popular street foods.

Laksa, the spicy Peranakan noodle soup made with coconut milk, is transformed into a pesto sauce and served with pasta.

On Low’s new 'omakase' menu, bak chor mee (minced pork noodles) takes center stage. His version uses glass noodles cooked in Iberico pork fat, topped with torched mixed tuna and scallions.

At the 3-year-old Candlenut, Malcolm Lee reinterprets Singapore’s classic ayam buah keluak (chicken with Indonesian black nut) by spreading the rich paste over sous-vide wagyu beef short ribs.

Lee launched an 'ahmakase' menu – a playful twist on 'ah ma' (grandmother) and 'omakase' (chef’s choice menu) – featuring dishes like a hearty buah keluak broth with beef cheek, shallots, and aromatic herbs.

At Restaurant Labyrinth, chef-owner Han Liguang offers a fresh take on Singapore’s iconic chili crab.

The former banker reimagines the national dish with deep-fried soft shell crab paired with a bold chili crab ice cream and man tou (Chinese steamed bun).

It’s another attempt to preserve, or at least modernize, the country’s beloved traditional dishes.

'Neo-Singapore cuisine reflects my experience growing up in the modern world, while still being deeply connected to traditional flavors—some of which are fading over time,' says Han. 'As Singapore marks its 50th anniversary in 2015, I want my food to represent contemporary Singapore, while honoring our heritage.'

Candlenut, 331 New Bridge Road, 01-03 Dorsett Residences, Singapore

Jin Ji Braised Duck and Kway Chap, Blk 335, Smith Street 02-156, Singapore

One Kueh At A Time, 02-61 Berseh Food Centre, 166 Jalan Besar, Singapore

Restaurant Labyrinth, 8 Raffles Ave., 02-23 Esplanade Mall, Singapore

Wild Rocket, located at 10A Upper Wilkie Road, Singapore.

Originally published in December 2015.