Heckfield Place: The First Biodynamic Hotel in the U.K.—What Does It Entail?

For idyllic escapes in the English countryside, Heckfield Place is a premier choice. Nestled on over 400 acres in the picturesque Hampshire hills, just an hour from London, it offers scenic walks, cycling, a spa featuring organic Wildsmith products, a cinema with plush leather seating, and 45 sophisticated rooms and suites that blend Georgian charm with modern design.

The resort also features an impressive range of lifelong learning opportunities through its Assembly program—this fall’s schedule includes classes in watercolor painting, mushroom foraging, canning and preserving, and astronomy.

However, for me and many visitors, the standout attraction at Heckfield Place is the dining experience. Culinary director Skye Gyngell, an award-winning chef and owner of Spring in London and the new Spring shop in Notting Hill, leads the food program. Gyngell pioneered the use of local ingredients, starting her career at London’s Petersham Nurseries in 2004, before 'farm to table' became a popular concept, earning a Michelin star in 2011.

While many prestigious country hotels proudly showcase their herb gardens, the culinary focus at Heckfield Place is directly tied to what is harvested that day from its extensive garden and farm, making it a top destination for food enthusiasts in the United Kingdom.

Their approach goes beyond just organic farming. I became particularly intrigued upon learning that Heckfield Place’s market garden has received biodynamic certification, which "meets and exceeds EU organic standards," as stated by the Biodynamic Association. (Look for the Demeter International logo, which establishes global standards for biodynamic agriculture.) Heckfield Place is the first hotel in the U.K. to achieve this distinction with its garden.

Currently, there are about 5,000 certified biodynamic farms across the globe. In contrast, the United States boasts over 16,500 certified organic farms.

What does this entail? Why is biodynamic farming considered superior to organic? I spent the day with David Rowley, head market gardener at Heckfield Home Farm, to uncover the details.

The main insight? "When you grow conventionally, it preserves the crop but harms everything else," explains Rowley. "Biodynamics, on the other hand, rejuvenates the soil and fosters life around the plants."

Hotel guests can enjoy complimentary garden tours, and private tours are also available. Guided by Rowley or another gardener, you'll explore the grounds, glasshouses, and greenhouses while learning about the significance of biodynamics. Be sure to take some time afterward to unwind on the terrace with a pot of tea and a slice of lemon poppyseed cake.

Rowley shared insights on the principles of biodynamic farming, the health benefits of freshly harvested produce, and the optimal taste of a carrot at its peak.

Let’s dive into the tasty details—what do you cultivate here?

We cultivate 60 to 70 varieties of vegetables, alongside about 40 to 50 types of cut flowers. The list is extensive and features lemon verbena, thyme, asparagus, four varieties of radishes, basil, seven kinds of salad greens, 20 types of tomatoes and cherry tomatoes, as well as berries like strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries. The cut flower bunches are sold in our market and also used to adorn the hotel.

So what exactly is biodynamic gardening, and why should more farms consider adopting it?

Biodynamic gardening is an agricultural philosophy established by Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s. It contrasts with conventional farming, which relies on chemicals and fertilizers. Essentially, it represents his vision for utilizing all the energy present on a farm. While we do engage in hand weeding and other natural control methods, we completely avoid introducing any harmful substances into the ecosystem.

After a few years of practicing this method, we observe that nature finds its own balance, allowing the system to function autonomously.

Steiner recognized that if we continued with the then-current agricultural practices, we would deplete our soil, structure, and life. He foresaw the consequences of widespread chemical fertilizers, which were drastically harming the ecosystem. Today, if we persist on this trajectory, what will the future look like in 100 years? In biodynamics, we foster life and growth everywhere.

Our 400 acres serve as a reservoir for sunlight, rainfall, and the cosmic energies identified by Steiner. The impact of cows on the soil is often overlooked. We take some of their manure, compost it with other green materials from our market garden, add biodynamic preparations to the compost pile, turn it after 60 days, and then incorporate it into the soil, planting seeds or transplants from the glasshouses directly into the compost.

When you think about a single carrot or a parsley leaf, and all the energy that goes into harvesting and serving it just hours later, it embodies remarkable vitality.

[For a deeper understanding of biodynamic gardening, check out the Biodynamic Association, which outlines the self-sustaining and regenerative methods used on these farms.]

How long does it take to achieve biodynamic certification?

Becoming certified takes three years. After two years, you achieve organic certification, at least according to the current standards in the U.K.

Key question: How does the produce taste?

In terms of quality, it tastes superior. Chefs who visit often remark on the enhanced flavor, particularly when the produce is freshly harvested.

Many people would be surprised by the nutritional value of produce picked on the same day. The nutritional content in vegetables diminishes not over days or weeks, but within hours—it decreases very rapidly.

What food do you most look forward to enjoying throughout the year?

Carrots after the first frost in autumn are a delight. We cultivate carrots in summer, and while they taste good then, the frost transforms the starches into sugars, enhancing their flavor overnight. They become crisp, sweet, and incredibly carrot-like. Always just wipe off the soil instead of peeling a fresh carrot.

So you grow crops throughout the entire year.

In our glasshouses, we provide heat to cultivate certain crops. However, biodynamics emphasizes that the food we grow and sell must be connected to the soil. We use unheated polytunnels, allowing us to grow winter-hardy crops like brassica salads (cauliflower, cabbage, and broccoli). We ensure there's always food available from our land, no matter the season.

With many of us opting for more plant-based or even vegetarian diets, how does this relate to biodynamic farming?

Biodynamics serves as a framework for any dietary choice. From my viewpoint, ruminant animals are essential to the system. Without them, where do we source the manure that nourishes and enriches the soil? Their contribution to nutritional value is irreplaceable.