How a Mongolian Sweater Brand is Making Cashmere More Sustainable

Mongolia experiences extreme cold. In winter, temperatures can plummet to –40° (which is the same in both Celsius and Fahrenheit). While wandering around Ulaanbaatar on a sunny October morning, I felt my fingers and ears growing numb despite my thin gloves and poorly fitting hat. Soon, I would face the biting winds of the open steppe and the early snows in the mountains—if I was chilly now, I would struggle later. As I shared my concerns with my guides and new local friends, they consistently suggested: Visit Gobi Cashmere.

Established in 1981 as a state-owned enterprise and privately operated since 2007, Gobi produces its apparel and accessories exclusively in Mongolia using 100 percent Mongolian cashmere. The fabric has been intertwined with the national economy since the communist era, which lasted from 1924 to 1990. Additionally, cashmere has been an agricultural mainstay for nomadic herders for generations. This luxuriously soft wool—gathered from the undercoat of goats that thrive across Mongolia’s plains, mountains, and forests—is one of the country’s primary exports, alongside minerals like copper and gold. Only China surpasses its cashmere production.

Currently, Mongolia is home to around 27 million cashmere goats—more than eight times the human population. This has led to some challenges: The insatiable goats, combined with rising temperatures and climate change, are accelerating the desertification of Mongolia’s grasslands.

Simultaneously, Mongolian cashmere has caught the eye of the global fashion industry. Vogue and Forbes have praised Gobi Cashmere, with celebrities like comedian and actress Robin Thede sporting its pieces. As its fame grows, Gobi aims to honor the country’s rich cashmere heritage while responsibly leading it into a more sustainable future.

International consumers are becoming familiar with the brand as well: Gobi launched a U.S. e-commerce platform in 2019, hosted a pop-up shop in Manhattan last winter, has a physical store in Berlin, and is preparing to open additional locations in the U.S. and U.K. Its flagship store, a stunning two-story glass structure in downtown Ulaanbaatar, is just steps away from the Parliament building. Entering that cold October day, I longed to envelop myself in the vibrant array of products on display, all crafted in the nearby factory. Gobi’s offerings range from classic ecru beanies and scarf sets to a chic coat accented with neon pink, and even a brightly striped dress influenced by global designs—the bold spring/summer 2023 collection drew inspiration from Mexican architecture. Yet, all of this begins in the fields with the goats and their herders.

“For thousands of years, nomadic herders have grazed cashmere goats across Mongolia’s rangelands,” explains Ivgeel Erdenebat, head of Gobi Cashmere’s Sustainable Development Division. “These goats, alongside horses, camels, yaks, and sheep, provide sustenance, warmth, and mobility. Cashmere and sheep wool are transformed into felt for clothing, bedding, and shelter; their hairs and bones are fashioned into musical instruments and toys; and even their dried dung serves as fuel for cooking and heating their homes.”

In an effort to highlight herders and their nomadic lifestyle, Gobi emphasizes traceability: it sources cashmere from nearly 3,000 herding families across Mongolia. Customers can explore the origins of Gobi’s cashmere on the company’s website, learning about the lives of these herders. “Mongolian nomadic herders dedicate their lives to caring for their livestock,” shares herder Purevdorj Zamind, who inherited his goats from his parents around 25 years ago. Zamind has partnered with Gobi since October 2020 as part of a collaboration between local herders and the Mongolian University of Life Sciences. This partnership blends traditional practices with scientific research to enhance animal welfare and ease the herders' workload. The goal is for healthier goats to yield higher-quality cashmere, allowing herders to maintain smaller flocks and use less land while preserving their income. Gobi Cashmere is also mindful of its raw cashmere sourcing, respecting nomadic traditions and rhythms.

“As temperatures rise, the animals’ undercoat [the cashmere] naturally loosens and sheds,” explains Zamind, who takes pride in hand-combing his goats for Gobi. All of Gobi's cashmere is collected by hand, which is believed to be less stressful for the animals compared to mechanical shearing, as it is gentler, aligns with the goats’ natural shedding cycles, and preserves their protective outer coat. “It also provides a gentle massage for the goat,” Zamind adds.

After the herders collect the raw cashmere, garment artisans at Gobi’s Ulaanbaatar factory turn it into warm clothing and accessories. The initial step involves washing the wool to eliminate impurities and coarse hairs. Machines then categorize it by width, quality, and its four natural shades—white, dark gray, beige, and blue/gray. Typically, white goats are found in the Gobi Desert, dark gray ones in the mountains and forest steppes, beige goats in desert and steppe areas, while blue/gray, the rarest variety, are mainly located in western Mongolia.

At this stage, some fibers receive a touch of dye (utilizing plant extracts and minerals when feasible—all certified to meet the international “bluesign” sustainability standards). Meanwhile, other fibers remain undyed, showcasing the wool’s four natural colors. These are featured in the brand’s Organic Collection, which minimizes water, energy, and chemical use by omitting the dyeing process.

Spinning machines—meticulously maintained by mechanics like Byambadorj D., who has dedicated 40 years to Gobi as its longest-serving employee—spin the fibers into yarn, which is then woven or knitted based on the intended product. Following this, staff cut and sew the material into its final shapes, whether that be a coat, sweater, blanket, baby sock, or blazer.

As Gobi has evolved, it has sought ways to reduce its environmental footprint. The company collaborates with eco-friendly initiatives, including the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (a U.K.-Mongolian nonprofit), and complies with textile production standards established by an E.U.-Mongolian partnership. Additionally, it repurposes production waste into the CashmeREborn collection of sweaters, launched in 2022. Gobi claims this collection uses 13 percent less water, 16 percent fewer chemicals, and 31 percent less energy than required for new yarn production. The Organic Collection also reduces water and energy use, as well as carbon emissions, by 20 percent each.

At the end of my trip, I returned to the store to pick up gifts for friends and family back in New York. I was particularly drawn to the organic colors—an enduring reminder of the families who had welcomed me so warmly on the steppe. I left with an assortment of earth-toned scarves, hats, and sweaters, plus a naturally beige blanket for myself. Now wrapped in it, I recall herder Zamind’s words: “The hard work of herders and the value of natural raw materials are what lie behind all of this.”