How to trek through Crete’s Samaria Gorge…and find your way to a beach

Here’s how to prepare for an exhilarating 10-mile hike in Crete that ends at a breathtaking beach.

What comes to mind when you picture Greece? Beaches? Charming blue-and-white villages? Hiking probably doesn’t make the cut.

However, Crete, the largest island in Greece, definitely changes that perception. It boasts some of the finest hiking trails in the country, including the renowned Samaria Gorge. To many people's surprise, this stunning gorge is the second-largest in Europe. Nestled within Crete’s White Mountains, the gorge and its surroundings were once vital for the island, providing a significant source of fresh water.

The gorge hike is perfect for those seeking a challenge while diving into history, with an added bonus. Nestled within the gorge is the abandoned village of Samaria, which dates back to the 1300s. Its remote location made it a strategic refuge during various conflicts and wars. However, it's what awaits at the end of the hike that serves as the ultimate incentive.

This point-to-point hike begins at an altitude of 1200m (3937ft) in the mountain village of Omalos and descends all the way to sea level at the black-sand beach of Agia Roumeli on Crete’s southern coast. In summer, the Mediterranean invites you to take a refreshing post-hike swim.

The 16km (10-mile) trek typically takes around six to seven hours to finish. I highly recommend planning your next steps after Agia Roumeli and staying in one of the charming beach towns along the southern coast. My top choice is Loutro, a small, stunning cove. It boasts some of the clearest waters I’ve ever experienced—quite a statement coming from a beach snob like me.

Step 1: Travel light by securing any extra luggage

Check if your hotel can keep your unneeded items safe.

Whether you're heading to Loutro afterward or just hiking, keeping your pack light is essential. Much of the trail is downhill, and carrying extra weight will only make it tougher. A lighter load can also decrease your chances of tripping or falling.

This means you’ll need a place to stash your remaining luggage. I recommend stopping by the city of Hania before your hike and asking your accommodations to safely store your bags while you explore. Hania is well worth the visit, boasting a vibrant dining scene and a captivating blend of Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Venetian architecture.

Practically speaking, Hania serves as a transport hub, making it an ideal starting point for your gorge adventure. After your hike and beachside relaxation, you can return to Hania to collect your luggage before moving on.

Step 2: Figure out how to reach Omalos, the hike's starting point

Whether you opt for public transport or a guided tour, make sure to depart early.

There are several ways to get to Omalos, with the public bus being the most budget-friendly choice. During the warmer months, regular public buses make the hour-long journey from Hania. Catching an early-morning bus is advisable to give you ample time for the hike and a refreshing swim at Agia Roumeli before heading to your next stop.

If you prefer to leave the logistics to someone else, travel companies offer guided tours of the gorge, complete with bus transfers. If you don't need a return trip and wish to head straight to Loutro, be sure to inform your guide in advance.

Step 3: Put on your hiking boots

Be mindful on the steep and narrow parts of the gorge.

The hike begins with a steep descent, which you should navigate carefully.

As you near the end of your journey, you'll encounter an ancient church and the historic village of Samaria. The rugged landscape of the gorge is softened by delicate baby-pink oleander blooms.

The trail narrows at the 'gates of Samaria,' where the gorge's towering walls reach approximately 300m (984ft). Small wooden bridges crisscross over a crystal-clear stream, making this crossing one of the most enjoyable parts of the hike.

Step 4: Make sure to reserve your ferry to Loutro in advance

This car-free gem is not to be overlooked.

The ferries at Agia Roumeli's end will transport hikers to various nearby beach towns, including Loutro. To ensure a spot, it's wise to book your ferry tickets and accommodations ahead of time, especially during the summer months.

What sets Loutro apart is its lack of cars; the only access is by ferry or on foot from the neighboring Hora Sfakion. Even if vehicles were allowed, the village's location makes it nearly impossible for them to reach, as it rests by the sea, shielded by a steep 600m (1970ft) cliff with no roads in or out. I suggest staying for at least two nights to fully enjoy the swimming, fresh fish, and relaxation.

Step 5: Arrange your return tickets

Return inland by bus.

From Loutro, ferries can take you to the nearby town of Hora Sfakion, where buses connect to Hania, traversing the stunning White Mountains that encompass Samaria Gorge.

If I had the chance to do it again…

I might opt for a reverse route—not the full hike (that steep part would be quite the challenge with others coming down!). Instead, I'd choose a shorter loop trail, starting at Agia Roumeli and entering through the gorge's 'end' for a more tranquil experience.