I cherish Hawaii, but I won't be returning anytime soon—here's why

I absolutely love Hawaii. I've visited four times over the last couple of years, including during the resort bubble program in Kauai. My most recent trip was in July, but several new developments are causing me to reconsider a return in the near future.

Here’s the reason why.

COVID-19 cases are on the rise again

Hawaii fully reopened to vaccinated travelers on July 8, leading to a surge in visitors and pre-pandemic crowd levels. Unfortunately, like the rest of the United States, Hawaii is facing another wave of COVID-19 infections, largely driven by the delta variant.

The state has seen a jump from 60 daily cases a few weeks ago to nearly 500 a day in the past week. The test positivity rate has also skyrocketed. In fact, as reported by Reuters citing the state’s health department, cases increased by 168% between July 26 and August 8.

During a news conference last week, Hawaii Gov. David Ige stated, "We must take action, and we must do it now."

Dr. Darragh O'Carroll, an emergency room physician in Hawaii, told local TV station KHON, "Our cases are rising, hospitals are becoming overwhelmed, and there seems to be no end in sight."

Hawaii is reinstating restrictions

Some healthcare workers and residents of Hawaii are calling for stricter measures due to the surge in COVID-19 cases.

Indeed, the governor has already begun reversing some of the reopening measures from last week, reintroducing a mask mandate and limiting restaurant and bar capacity to 50%. Additionally, crowd restrictions are making a return, allowing only 10 or fewer people for indoor gatherings and 25 for outdoor ones.

Further changes may be on the horizon. Some are advocating for Hawaii to reinstate pre-testing requirements for all incoming travelers and to implement post-arrival testing as well. So far, the governor has resisted reintroducing these measures, stating he wouldn’t be "making any specific changes to the Safe Travels program."

Nonetheless, the possibility of new restrictions being enacted at any time makes me hesitant about planning another trip right now.

Residents of Hawaii are frustrated with over-tourism

During the pandemic, Hawaii residents enjoyed a rare respite from tourists, one of the few silver linings in a challenging time. They could explore their own islands without the usual traffic and crowds, experiencing empty landscapes for the first time in many lives.

Once Hawaii eased its stringent COVID-19 restrictions and welcomed vaccinated travelers from the mainland without testing, airlines quickly ramped up flights, and eager Americans booked every available option.

This influx of visitors has caused shortages in everything from restaurant staff to rental vehicles to hotel accommodations.

One of the primary grievances from residents is the overwhelming traffic congestion that has returned with a vengeance to areas like Oahu, the Big Island, and even Maui's notorious Road to Hana.

The situation has escalated to the point where the mayor of Maui has even pleaded with airlines to reduce the number of flights.

At a press conference last month, Maui Mayor Michael Victorino remarked, "We don't have the power to say stop, but we are appealing to those in charge to assist us."

According to the Hawaii Tourism Authority, Maui had only 1,054 visitors in May 2020 at the peak of the pandemic. Before the pandemic, during the last major outcry about over-tourism, Maui welcomed over 251,000 visitors. This past May? Over 215,000. While those figures aren't higher than in 2019, there has been a significant increase in visitors since May.

The mayor of Maui and local residents are outraged about the famous Road to Hana, as locals report that tourists are illegally parking along the narrow two-lane road, trespassing on private property for unauthorized hikes, and causing severe traffic jams on the winding route. During my drive along the highway in July, I noticed numerous handwritten signs warning tourists against trespassing. TPG's Zach Honig observed them as well.

In 2019, tourism accounted for a significant portion of Hawaii's private income, generating over $2 billion in tax revenue, yet the economic gains often fail to enhance the quality of life for Native Hawaiians.

While I was there, I overheard several locals expressing their frustrations about the traffic. Though the Hawaii residents I met were friendly and hospitable, the underlying irritation was palpable. It doesn't seem like the ideal time to visit Hawaii.

It's packed

During my visit to Kauai in January 2021, while testing the island's resort bubble program, I encountered very few other tourists. However, by the time I returned to Hawaii and Oahu in March, it felt like a switch had flipped; the spring break crowds had returned with a fury. Locals mentioned that the change occurred almost instantly.

Hotels, many still not fully staffed or reopened, struggled to manage the influx of visitors. This resulted in long waits for everything from check-in to ordering at Starbucks and waiting for elevators. It's not an ideal vacation experience with COVID-19 still on the rise.

While Kauai and Maui didn't feel as congested as Honolulu during my July visit, there were still plenty of people at most beaches, restaurants, and shopping areas. I'm simply not ready to return until things settle down a bit.

Supply issues

As mentioned earlier, many locations in Hawaii are currently facing shortages of various essentials, with the most significant shortages being rental cars and dining reservations.

Restaurants and bars have reverted to operating at just 50% capacity. Although there was a brief period when they could function at 75%, the recent rise in COVID-19 cases has forced most establishments to limit their seating to half.

Even during the short time they were allowed to operate at three-quarters capacity, many restaurants struggled to meet the demand. Additionally, a shortage of restaurant staff has further restricted the number of meals they can serve.

Tourists are encouraged to make dinner reservations well in advance—sometimes up to several months ahead. Even as a solo traveler, I found it impossible to secure same-day reservations at the hottest venues (like The Dolphin in Poipu).

During my trip in July, I was already aware of the well-reported shortage of rental cars, but I was shocked to see "sold out" signs everywhere. There were absolutely no cars available for Kauai or Maui that month.

I ended up renting a Turo in Maui, but it cost me a fortune and added significant stress to my trip (I didn't even bother with a car in Kauai). For instance, I couldn't prebook a rental car for my journey from the Sheraton to the airport and had to rely on a local who kindly offered me a ride the day before, simply out of the aloha spirit. I spent my two days at the hotel worrying about it, which is not how you want to enjoy a vacation.

Costs are quite high at the moment

Due to shortages, prices for everything have surged. While you might still spot the occasional flight deal, hotel rates are exorbitant and Airbnb options are scarce if you can find any.

I checked prices for September in Maui, and most major resorts began at $500 per night before adding resort fees. The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa was priced over $700 per night, while the Ritz-Carlton demanded more than $1,600. Even the airport Courtyard in Maui charged upwards of $538 per night.

Kauai painted a similar picture, with the Hilton Garden Inn sold out for the first half of September and charging between $357 and $450 per night when they had availability.

The same trend applies to rental cars and vacation rentals. If you're planning to travel now, expect to pay a premium, even for budget accommodations.

In conclusion

I truly cherish my experiences in Hawaii and eagerly anticipate my return... someday.

Given the rise in coronavirus cases, soaring prices, large crowds, and the potential for new restrictions, I’ve decided to postpone any future bookings for now. Many Native Hawaiians and local residents likely share this hope for fewer tourists during these times.