Ideal times to explore Bordeaux, France

Nicola has just completed the latest edition of Dinogo Planet's Pocket Bordeaux guidebook, set for release in May 2024. Here, she shares her insights on the best times to visit the city.

Bordeaux isn't just about its renowned wines.

This vibrant city merges urban culture with culinary flair, offering enticing experiences year-round. Moreover, its stunning surroundings of prestigious vineyards, fruit orchards, and farms add a colorful seasonal backdrop, making each month uniquely picturesque.

Typically, summer reigns as the prime season for visiting this Atlantic Coast gem in southwest France, thanks to its bright blue skies and sweltering heat that push everything outdoors—cafés, nightlife, markets, and festivals. In July and August, grand cruise ships dock along the Garonne River, accompanied by a lively flow of bikes and e-scooters cruising the broad promenades. Summer boasts unparalleled options for river cruises, wine tastings at La Cité du Vin, and guided tours by the Bordeaux tourist office.

The shoulder seasons—spring and autumn—draw a more sophisticated crowd, often in search of wine tastings, vineyard tours, and unique sightseeing. With lower hotel rates and affordable chambres d’hôtes (B&Bs) during these times, you can enjoy greater value for your money. If you want to savor leisurely strolls interspersed with boutique shopping and cozy cups of vin chaud (mulled wine), winter could be your ideal choice.

From March to May, vibrant spring flowers and bustling market scenes abound

No season exudes such vitality or promise as the sunny days of spring. Tired of the cold, Bordelais shed their winter attire, ring their bicycle bells, and zip through the city with renewed energy. Upcycled wooden wine crates serve as bike baskets, filled to the brim with baby carrots, asparagus, the first sweet strawberries, and pink rhubarb sourced from Marché des Capucins or the lively Sunday open-air market along Quai des Chartrons. If you’re on the hunt for antiques, vintage treasures, and second-hand finds, plan your visit during the grand Brocante des Quinconces flea market, which takes over Place des Quinconces for two weeks from late April to early May.

The café terraces in the historic Saint-Pierre come alive again; enjoying an 'after work' apéro (drink) at Place du Palais or along the lively bars lining the left-bank quays is back in style. People also take their time on the benches in Jardin Public, where blooming magnolia and cherry trees paint the landscape in vibrant shades of pink. It’s also an excellent time for walkers: this is the prime season to explore a segment of the GR Bordeaux Métropole, France's longest urban grande randonnée (long-distance walking trail) that stretches 160 km (99 miles) around the city and its vineyard-dotted suburbs.

From June to August, the city buzzes with a multitude of outdoor summer festivities

Hotel, apartment, and urban chambres d’hôtes prices reach their peak during the summer months. If you're planning to visit in August, consider whether you need air conditioning and book your accommodations well in advance. Some of the favorite bistros and restaurants cherished by locals—typically chef-owned and champions of zero-kilometer cuisine, like Soif and Mes Mots—close for a significant part of August as many Bordelais take their holidays. For brunch at Casa Gaia, a meal at farm-fresh Les Récoltants, and dining at other sustainably-minded restaurants that remain open, it's wise to make a reservation ahead of time.

While swimming in the Garonne isn’t advisable due to its murky, brown hue, adventurous souls can participate in June's lively Traversée de Bordeaux, where 500 daring swimmers tackle the river. Alternatively, you can rent a stand-up paddleboard or canoe at Les Marins de la Lune in La Bastide on the right bank and enjoy a leisurely float.

During the sun-soaked months of July and August, it's the perfect time to join locals, young and old, in the shimmering waters of the Miroir d'Eau or to enjoy the sandy shores at Bordeaux Lac, where you can swim, sail, and kayak; the lake is just a 30-minute tram ride on line C from Esplanades des Quinconces. If you prefer to be on the water rather than in it, summer is the peak season for scenic riverboat cruises, whether for daytime adventures, sunset views, or dinner cruises. Day trips by e-bike, classic bicycles, train, or car to coastal beaches offer a delightful escape from the summer heat.

Seasonal rooftop bars and riverside guinguettes (open-air dance spots) are now in full swing. Summer festivals kick off a series of starry nights filled with dancing, outdoor concerts, film screenings, and other cultural celebrations under the moonlight. June's four-day Fête du Vin dazzles with fireworks and wine tastings galore.

September to October is a celebration of Bordeaux's wine heritage

As school children return to their classrooms in September, tourist numbers dwindle, and accommodation rates drop significantly. The days are pleasantly warm and sunny, with beautiful light during sunrise and sunset, perfect for walking and cycling. For wine enthusiasts, this is an exceptional time to visit: the foliage bursts into shades of crimson, gold, and red, and sun-ripened grapes are harvested in prestigious vineyards around the city—Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is just a 10-minute tram ride on line A from Hôtel de Ville—and throughout Médoc during the September and October vendange (grape harvest).

If you’re eager to enjoy wine and oysters on the go, plan ahead (gold-dust tickets become available in March) for September’s famed Marathon des Châteaux du Médoc. The year’s first wine is celebrated in late October at the Fête du Vin Nouveau in the historic wine-trading district of Chartrons, where wintry, street-roasted chestnuts accompany a festive atmosphere of singing, dancing, and joyful revelry.

From November to February, culture enthusiasts on a budget are charmed by the city

Accommodation costs decrease, river cruise operators shut down for winter, and museums are less crowded: days grow shorter, darkness falls early, and the weather can be chilly or wet. However, for culture lovers eager to explore the world’s largest urban UNESCO World Heritage site in peace and indulge in Bordeaux's rich museum offerings without the crowds, this is the ideal time. It's also a great opportunity to enjoy breakfast featuring oysters and white wine at the covered market Marché des Capucins or to savor a steaming bowl of Bordeaux's renowned lamproie à la bordelaise (eel stew), calf kidneys with goose-fat fries, and other delicious traditional dishes from southwest France at the historic restaurant La Tupina. Bon appétit!