In Hong Kong, Numerous Restaurants Are Positioned Right on the Protest Front Lines

Around 11 p.m. on Halloween in Lan Kwai Fong, a nightclub manager turned to a stranger and lamented, “It’s a disaster. Everything is ruined. My life is upended.” He gazed down the hill, past nearly empty bars, at a line of riot police blocking entry to the city's vibrant party district. What should have been one of the busiest nights of the year saw almost no patrons allowed in. As a solitary Superman danced half-heartedly atop a police barrier, the manager decided to close early and head home. Before leaving, he added, “It’s not just us. The police went overboard. They were brutalizing people. Last year was fantastic. Now, it’s a mess.”

Since June, when hundreds of thousands rallied against a proposed law allowing extradition to mainland China, Hong Kong has witnessed a mix of peaceful protests and violent confrontations between demonstrators and police. These have led to weekly, sometimes daily, clashes in various neighborhoods. While some of the more intense altercations can be anticipated and avoided, tear gas and Molotov cocktails have become commonplace on shifting ‘front lines,’ and police have shot at least two protesters with live rounds, an alarming occurrence in a city typically free of gun violence.

Although the city has experienced a relative calm in recent weeks, some form of unrest is likely to continue into 2020. Despite overwhelming electoral victories for mainly pro-protest candidates in local district elections in late November, demonstrations persist. Protesters have united around the slogan — “five demands, not one less!” — indicating an unwavering stance. On December 8, an estimated 800,000 residents, roughly 10 percent of the population, participated in a march to reinforce their unresolved demands, including an independent investigation into police actions against protesters, amnesty for those previously arrested, and the end of the practice where many officials are elected through select committees rather than by popular vote.

While the local government has met one of the demands (repealing the extradition bill), and Beijing has replaced its top official in Hong Kong, few believe that the authorities will fully comply with all five of the protesters' requests. The annual Lunar New Year parade has already been canceled, and as January 1 approached, Hong Kong residents received a mass text from police cautioning them about impending protests on the island: “PLEASE BE AWARE OF YOUR OWN SAFETY.”

While there is no consensus in Hong Kong about the underlying issues or the best ways to address the current situation, many in the hospitality industry agree that the prolonged protests and police actions have taken a significant toll. Few are willing to publicly admit that their restaurants or hotels are struggling with low occupancy, but official statistics are beginning to reveal the harsh truth. Earlier on Halloween, breaking news reports indicated that, due to the protests and the U.S.-China trade tensions, Hong Kong has entered its first economic recession since 2009.

This is an especially tense time for local restaurants. An economic slump is one thing, but the ongoing street confrontations mean many establishments find themselves literally at the forefront, regardless of their preferences.

Protesters are closely observing how restaurants engage with the ongoing situation. Some establishments proudly show their support, displaying yellow stickers on their doors and walls to signify their inclusion in the 'Hongkonger’s LIHKG Pig Guide,' a popular online forum among protesters.

The site, along with a detailed map, collects data on the political leanings of local businesses: A hot dog stand popular with college students in Kennedy Town boasts a “Lennon Wall” filled with pro-protest Post-it notes that nearly obscures its menu display. Nearby, a dessert shop features a continuous loop of pro-protest videos on a screen next to a mannequin dressed in a helmet, mask, and an orange “press” jacket, accompanied by a wall showcasing portraits of supportive protesters. Many more establishments share similar sentiments. Activist Laurie Wen recently published a New York Times opinion piece highlighting how the hospitality sector is supporting the protests through complimentary meals and slogan-decorated mooncakes.

Restaurants like these are marked with a yellow label to indicate their pro-protester stance. In contrast, those perceived as pro-police or anti-protester are marked blue, making them potential targets for boycotts or worse.

Following vocal criticism of the protesters by the daughter of the founder of Maxim’s Catering, which operates Starbucks in Hong Kong, numerous Starbucks locations suffered window damage and vandalism. The coffee chain, along with other partners of Maxim’s (including two Shake Shack outlets owned by Danny Meyer), are indicated as blue dots on the map, with some listed as blue due to simply “Hearsay ONLY.”

At least one yellow-labeled restaurant has faced targeting, likely because the owner offered free meals and publicly supported the protesters. Many restaurateurs are apprehensive about making public statements, fearing backlash from either the protesters, police, or mainland authorities. Representatives from several prominent restaurant groups either declined to comment or did not respond to inquiries for this story. Even the staff at the hot dog stand adorned with pro-protester Post-Its indicated that while photos could be taken, no interviews or statements would be given.

When members of the hospitality sector do speak, often on the condition of anonymity, they describe the situation as complicated. Some report dire circumstances, with many restaurants closing (the reasons for these closures are not always evident). Others note a significant rise in delivery orders, which has its own advantages and disadvantages, while reservations have shifted from weekends, when protests are most frequent, to mid-week. A spokesperson from a well-known group remarked that establishments located within the airport's security perimeter appeared to be thriving, suggesting that travelers were arriving earlier than usual to avoid disruptions caused by road closures or protests affecting the airport commuter train.

Gus Murray, the city manager for Quandoo, a restaurant reservation platform in Hong Kong, noted that while there was a significant decline in bookings during the initial stages of the protests in June and July, the situation has stabilized. He stated, “Western venues are thriving, but local establishments dependent on Chinese tourists and local patrons are, as locals describe it, under pressure. Conversely, hotel restaurants are performing exceptionally well, as travelers tend to stay in rather than venture out.”

At Chungking Mansions in Kowloon, where protesters found solidarity with immigrant residents, an employee at a South Asian restaurant reported increased business due to the frequent visits from protesters. “They usually come around 4 p.m.,” he noted, anticipating a surge in customers aligned with that day's protest schedule.

For many residents, daily life continues as protesters generally concentrate their activities in specific areas, allowing non-participants to navigate around the unrest. Over the weekend of November 15 to 17, as protesters occupied Polytechnic University ahead of the now-notorious police siege, a luxury magazine in Hong Kong hosted a well-attended $230-per-person “Off The Menu” food festival at a mall near Victoria Peak. In response to concerns, the event's FAQ stated, “Q: Will your event be canceled due to current political unrest in Hong Kong? A: Our event will proceed at The Peak, away from areas of significant disturbance.”

Even establishments located outside the “areas of general disturbance” are experiencing the negative impacts of a significant decline in tourism. Recent statistics indicate that in September, arrivals fell by over 1.6 million year-on-year, dropping from 4.7 million visitors in 2018 to 3.1 million this year. Potential tourists are understandably disheartened by reports of tear gas and fires at protest sites. However, a pro-protest observer known as “Hong Kong Hermit” on Twitter noted, “Protesters consistently make an effort to protect, guide, and provide medical assistance to tourists… There is no hostility towards non-participants; everyone understands that not all individuals in HK can protest or do so consistently, and many are from outside. They are regarded as civilians in a conflict zone, and thus safeguarded.”

To illustrate this, he shared a video from another observer that seems to show tourists receiving helmets and guidance in late July, along with one of his own featuring travelers navigating past protesters, firefighters, and a shuttered subway station.

Not all tourists may be persuaded. Some mainland Chinese have recently felt particularly targeted, and arrivals from China in September were down 35 percent compared to the previous year, in contrast to a 31 percent drop from other nations. Since mainland Chinese tourists typically account for about 75 percent of all visitors, a substantial part of the city's hospitality sector still relies on their patronage.

Whether they and other visitors will return in sufficient numbers to support what was once a thriving hospitality sector remains uncertain. Local billionaire “tycoon” Li Ka-shing has sought to mitigate losses (and enhance the reputation of the upper echelons) by directing his foundation to allocate a $25.5 million fund to assist small restaurants. When asked about his hopes, a notable restaurateur who recently benefited from the fund remarked, “I believe the struggle for human rights by Hongkongers is a prolonged and arduous journey, and I think it will persist for the foreseeable future.”

Andrew Genung is a writer based in Hong Kong and the creator of the Family Meal newsletter focusing on the restaurant industry.