Istanbul is Overflowing with Fresh New Eateries, Hotels, and Museums

Since my first trip to Istanbul years ago, I’ve been captivated by its enchanting skyline of domes and minarets, and the romance of its ferries crossing the Bosporus. In 2007, I bought an apartment here, and each return from New York reveals more transformation. With every visit, I hope my beloved traditional teahouses and meyhane taverns survive the changes. Yet, Istanbul, once Constantinople and Byzantium, is famed for its reinvention. This latest wave of urban renewal, completing projects years in the making, has fueled a post-pandemic tourism surge, welcoming over 20 million visitors in 2023, making it the world’s most-visited city.

One of the largest recent developments in Istanbul is the Galataport project, completed in 2021. It converted an old dock warehouse area on the lower European Bosporus shore into the world’s first underground cruise terminal, designed by local firm Autoban. The nearly mile-long mixed-use space features 240 stylish retail, dining, and cultural venues, all with a price tag of $1.7 billion. The priceless part? A stunning waterfront promenade with breathtaking views of the Asian shore, the Topkapi Palace, and Hagia Sophia, hidden for 200 years by unsightly dock structures. A new plaza behind the Renzo Piano-designed Istanbul Modern museum highlights an Ottoman clock tower and the elegant neo-baroque Nusretiye Mosque, both beautifully restored.

By 2025, the old Ottoman naval shipyards along the Golden Horn will be transformed into Tersane Istanbul, a 60-acre waterside development featuring residences, hotels—including the five-star Rixos already open—two marinas, and a mix of retail and cultural spaces, with three world-class museums designed by Grimshaw Architects. The historic Ottoman imperial gardens will also be revitalized as part of this grand project.

On my latest summer 2024 visit to Istanbul, the city was alive with new openings. Taking a break from the old bookshops and bazaars, I set out to uncover the latest places to stay, eat, drink, and explore in this dynamic metropolis that bridges Europe and Asia, both culturally and geographically.

Must-visit restaurants for your Istanbul trip

One exciting trend in Istanbul's dining scene is the emergence of female chefs. Leading the charge is Sinem Ozler, who became the star of Seraf Vadi in 2023, a chic spot in the northern Vadi district founded by meticulous Kurdish restaurateur Dogan Yildirim. In a glamorous setting full of curves, plants, and sweeping windows, Ozler crafts inspired Turkish regional dishes with the passion of an anthropologist. Take her hand-rolled hengel noodles from Kars or her delicate chard dolmas stuffed with bulgur and Lor cheese from Erzrum. While many places serve lahmacun, manti, and icli kofte, Ozler’s meticulous versions make the trip to Vadi worthwhile.

Tucked away on the third floor of the Bebek by the Stay Hotel, Sankai by Nagaya is a 24-seat omakase gem that earned a Michelin star within its first year after opening in March 2023. Japanese native Hiroko Shibata, a former navy member turned sushi chef, runs the kitchen. Unlike most sushi spots in Istanbul, which import tuna and salmon, Shibata sources local fish from the Bosporus, such as cipura, levrek, and palamut. Her seasonal menu may begin with a green nori waffle adorned with Marmara salmon and pomegranate gelee, progress to pristine sashimi and artistic maki rolls, and culminate with a selection of local fish in the nigiri course. Desserts include Monaka ice cream and matcha affogato. The restaurant also offers a complimentary electric BMW i7 transfer service for a stylish arrival.

Another recent Michelin star was awarded to Arkestra, a chic retreat in the hills above Bebek. Run by French-trained chef Cenk Debensason and his wife, music industry veteran Debora Ipekel, Arkestra offers three unique experiences in a nostalgic 1960s villa. The fine-dining restaurant serves playful creations like fermented potato bread with smoky burnt butter, beef katsu sando on homemade shokupan, wild mushrooms on miso-onion puree, and monkfish bouillabaisse.

Hidden behind velvet curtains, Ritmo is a newly opened bistro with a mirrored ceiling, offering cool wines and small plates like oysters with champagne sabayon. Upstairs, the Listening Room, an audiophile’s dream inspired by Japanese jazu-kissa bars, features vinyl record collections and guest DJ events for a laid-back cocktail hour.

For a lively night, head to Frankie, one of the few true gems in Galataport’s restaurant scene. With live Cuban music and stunning Bosporus views, the terrace draws a vibrant crowd. Don’t miss out on the “MediterrAsian” menu, featuring hamachi tataki with XO sauce, sea bass ceviche with fennel, duck tortellini, and tender slow-roasted lamb shoulder.

Just one floor below is Roka, the trendy robata-ya restaurant from London, marking the return of talented Turkish chef Suna Hakyemez. With experience from Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck, Hakyemez wows with dishes like bone marrow teriyaki and miso crème brûlée with caramelized quince and pistachio ice cream, all set against a sunset view over the Bosporus.

For an authentic Turkish street food experience, join the locals at Papatya Dürüm in Arnavutkoy. Opened in 2022, this modest yet lively spot specializes in wraps featuring flatbreads smeared with salca (spicy red pepper paste) and filled with juicy minced lamb or za’atar-marinated chicken, grilled to perfection. The restaurant’s owner, Melina Abdo, hails from the Hatay province, deeply affected by the 2023 earthquake.

New spots for a great drink

In a city known for glamorous rooftop bars, the latest cocktail craze is Fahri Konsolos, a small but lively bar in Moda on the Asian shore. Burak Ayaz leads the charge behind the copper bar with his creative, Oriental-inspired drinks featuring local flavors like pomegranate, saffron, and rose. Signature cocktails include the Duthane, a mix of raki, mastic, and white mulberry, and the Çīdem, a fresh twist on a Manhattan with whiskey, sour cherry, and orange flower.

In Beyoglu, Cok Cok Pera is the go-to Thai spot, and its Ernest’s bar, named after Hemingway, draws a loyal crowd for its dark, moody ambiance. Award-winning mixologist Fatih Akerdem creates unique drinks like a plum and mulberry Negroni and the Tom Yam, with teriyaki and chili vodka. For a classic touch, you can even find Hemingway’s favorite grapefruit Daiquiri. Meanwhile, beer lovers flock to the Populist at Galataport, the latest branch of the beloved microbrewery. The six-beer sampler, including the creamy red ale and rich nitro stout, pairs perfectly with their kokoreç-topped pide.

New cultural landmarks in the city

Several of Istanbul’s iconic religious sites have seen significant changes. The upper gallery of Hagia Sophia, famous for its stunning Byzantine mosaics, has reopened after a four-year closure following its reversion to a mosque. Nearby, the Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), with its remarkable tiles and six minarets, is fully open again after a five-year restoration. Also, the Kariye Mosque, formerly the Chora Church, in Edirnekapi now offers access to its incredible 11th-century frescoes and mosaics.

Beyond the historic landmarks, new architectural marvels are rejuvenating Istanbul’s cultural scene. On Taksim Square, the Ataturk Cultural Center was reborn in 2021, designed by the original architect’s son. Its neo-modern glass and metal facade houses a cinema, library, art galleries, and a striking opera house. The top-floor Biz Istanbul restaurant celebrates local flavors with its neo-Ottoman cuisine, traditional lokanta dishes, and street-food-inspired bar—all with a terrace overlooking the Bosporus.

At Galataport, the long-awaited Istanbul Modern museum finally opened in June 2023. Renzo Piano’s sleek five-story design echoes the area’s industrial past with horizontal aluminum layers and expansive windows. It features both international exhibits, like Olafur Eliasson’s installation running till February 2025, and a permanent collection of Turkish art post-1945. The museum also offers a cinema and a terrace with a shallow reflecting pool perfect for photo opportunities.

Nearby, the Istanbul Painting and Sculpture Museum showcases late-Ottoman and 20th-century Turkish art in a stunning building repurposed from a warehouse by renowned architect Emre Arolat. At night, the museum glows red, adding to its allure.

Restorations and transformations of heritage sites continue to captivate across Istanbul. On the Asian side in Kadikoy, the 1891-built gasworks was reimagined in 2021 as the Gazhane Museum for science and technology, also hosting a Turkish cartoon and humor museum. In Aksaray, the 1912 red-brick neo-Ottoman Bulgur Palace has been revitalized into a cultural center and library. On bustling Istiklal Avenue, the once-abandoned Casa Botter, an art nouveau gem by Italian architect Raimondo D’Aronco, has been restored as a municipal arts and design hub. Meanwhile, in the Zeyrek district, the 16th-century Cinili Hamam, crafted by Ottoman master Mimar Sinan, reopened in September 2023 and now includes a museum.

The Golden Horn is home to ArtIstanbul Feshane, an ambitious cultural venue spanning two acres, housed in a former military textile factory from 1833 that once produced fez hats. Earlier this year, its modern art galleries hosted an exhibition of op and kinetic art from London’s Tate Modern.

Essential reads and watches before your trip

Charles King’s captivating book 'Midnight at the Pera Palace: The Birth of Modern Istanbul' provides a rich cultural history of Istanbul during the interwar period and inspired a popular Netflix series. The Pera Palace Hotel, where the story unfolds, remains one of the city’s most iconic and atmospheric landmarks.

How to get there

Turkish Airlines is consistently rated among the world’s top 10 airlines by Skytrax. Economy passengers enjoy perks like a two-piece luggage allowance, surprisingly good meals, and fun toys for kids, plus cute Mandarina Duck amenity kits. Business class goes further with Ferragamo cosmetic kits, lie-flat beds, and meals crafted by the airline’s famed Flying Chefs, including meze and gourmet entrées.

In recent years, Turkey’s national airline has added new U.S. routes, including Newark, Dallas, Seattle, Detroit, and starting June 2024, direct flights from Denver. Planning a trip to Istanbul? Consider the Stopover in Istanbul program, which offers economy passengers two free nights at a four-star hotel, and business class travelers three nights at a five-star hotel during long layovers.

If your itinerary doesn’t naturally include a long layover, you can create one to take advantage of the free Stopover hotel offer. Flying from the U.S. through Istanbul to Mumbai or Dubai? Select the stopover option on the Turkish Airlines website and adjust the length of your stay. For shorter layovers of 6 to 24 hours, the airline’s complimentary Touristanbul service offers a guided city tour and airport transfers.

This article was first published in March 2023 and updated with the latest information in August 2024.