Local Delights: the best places to eat and drink in Budapest

Budapest's culinary scene is alive with vibrant, paprika-infused Hungarian dishes that blend traditional flavors with contemporary influences, all set against the backdrop of its iconic ruin bars. Yet, the city's food landscape is ever-evolving; with each new and exciting eatery that opens, another ruin bar might be lost to development.

Having witnessed the city's transformation over the years, I spent part of my childhood here as my Hungarian mother wanted me to immerse myself in the language. After returning to reconnect with my heritage, I’ve made Budapest my home for the last decade. The food scene reflects the city's dynamic culture.

Hungarian cuisine has a reputation for being hearty, often featuring generous servings of meat, potatoes, paprika, and lard. That's why I'm thrilled to see modern interpretations and fusion styles that breathe new life into traditional Hungarian dishes, making the city's gastronomic offerings more cosmopolitan (which is great news for vegetarians and vegans).

Here are some places I would recommend to friends visiting for a weekend, along with a few personal favorites I frequent regularly.

Breakfast

I have a soft spot for Bartók Béla Boulevard in Buda, as I’ve called the XI District home since my return, and I've seen this area thrive over the past decade. A beloved local gem is Kelet, a charming café and bar adorned with exchangeable used books. It's one of my favorite breakfast spots, where I often indulge in their omelets stuffed with feta cheese and paprika jam, paired with homemade pickles. In Pest, The Garden Cafe, a new brunch destination nestled in a lush ivy-covered courtyard within Brody House, offers delightful vegetarian Turkish-style breakfasts. I highly recommend the Triple Cheese Gözelme, made with flaky filo pastry, goat cheese, Gouda, cottage cheese, and fresh herbs.

Coffee

Coffee is one of my indulgences, and I find myself needing to budget when I’m in the city center, as there are so many specialty coffee shops. One of my go-to places in Pest is Mantra, a cozy café on Veres Palné utca with its own roasters (I always pick up beans from them), where I usually enjoy a flat white made with their light roast. Just a stone's throw away, Fekete is hidden in a courtyard off Astoria, serving espresso made from beans sourced from local roaster Casino Mocca. For delightful service and superb cold brew, head toward Parliament to Ohana, where coffee is served in beautiful ceramics.

Lunch

For an affordable Hungarian lunch, I recommend Gettó Gulyás in the Jewish Quarter. They offer a three-course menu on weekdays for under 3000 HUF (about US$8) that changes daily (you can also order a la carte, though it costs more), and the food is served quickly, allowing you to dine in under an hour. Be sure to make a reservation, as there’s always a queue when they open.

If I want to impress visiting friends, I'd take them to Rosenstein. This Hungarian-Jewish restaurant near Keleti train station in the VIII District is among the finest in Budapest—don’t miss their matzo ball soup or duck. Founded by Holocaust survivor Tibor Rosenstein in 1996, it has remained a beloved family restaurant, now run by his son Robi.

On the Buda side, Róma Ételbár is a charming eatery with a street-side terrace located near the base of Castle Hill in the I District. It’s perfect for enjoying traditional home-style Hungarian dishes (it’s been around since 1990, closed for a time but now reopened). You can try gulyás soup (goulash) here, but in the summer, I recommend the lecsó, a Hungarian ratatouille with sausage and egg—arguably the best in the city.

Aperitivo

I enjoy having a cocktail before dinner, and Budapest is the ideal city for it. The Duchess, located on the rooftop of the Matild Palace Hotel, is my go-to spot for sunset views, offering a stunning panorama of the riverside, Gellért Hill, and Elizabeth Bridge alongside expertly crafted cocktails. When I want to treat friends to something unique, we settle under the Art Nouveau arcade of the Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel at Múzsa. This cocktail bar features a bespoke menu inspired by artists like Keith Haring, Frida Kahlo, and Henri Matisse, served with flair and a burst of flavors.

For a glass of wine, Bortodoor is my favorite—a cozy wine bar in the VI District run by passionate wine lovers who are eager to share their knowledge of Hungarian wines (definitely try their tasting menus and let them select wines just for you).

Dinner

Pierrot, located on Castle Hill, offers Hungarian-French fusion in a charming former 13th-century bakery, complete with a fairy-lit garden for a romantic evening. The menu is seasonal, featuring modern twists on Hungarian classics like chicken paprikás with sour cream foam, available year-round.

Alternatively, Mazel Tov in the Jewish Quarter is perfect for a fun dinner with friends before heading out. It offers sharable Middle Eastern mezze platters (think fantastic hummus and spiced grilled dishes) in a ruin bar atmosphere with a Mediterranean flair.

Finding a good dinner spot without a reservation can be tricky, but street food is always a reliable option. Bors GasztroBár, also in the Jewish Quarter, is a fantastic choice for a quick meal, featuring creative soups, crunchy baguette sandwiches, and even chilled soups made with Mars bars, alongside traditional options like jalapeño chili. I usually go for their pulled pork baguette or the French Lady (with chicken, Edam, and raspberry-onion jam), but they offer plenty of other choices, including vegan options.

Bar

Szimpla Kert in the Jewish Quarter may seem like a cliché recommendation, but it’s a must-visit for good reason: it’s Budapest’s original and most renowned ruin bar. Entering feels like stepping into a surreal dreamscape, making it essential for any trip to the city. They also embrace their countercultural heritage, hosting bohemian events featuring local artists, such as life drawing sessions, exhibitions, and micro-theater performances, so I often find myself here.

For a different vibe, check out Élesztő, a ruin bar located in a former glass factory in the VIII District. Here, you can sample over a dozen Hungarian craft beers on tap, with refreshing fruit options like Mango IPA being perfect for summer.