Local Delights: top dining and drinking spots in Montréal

Having lived in Montréal for over a decade, I've discovered that the city’s residents have a deep passion for food—just like I do.

In this vibrant city, it's common to see long lines at various restaurants and cafes, not just at the most famous places. Montréal boasts a unique array of dishes you won’t find elsewhere, such as the iconic Montréal-style bagels and smoked meat, introduced by Jewish immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Then there’s the Portuguese piri piri chicken that came after the Expo '67 World Fair, and of course, the renowned French-Canadian poutine—crispy fries topped with squeaky cheese curds and rich gravy—in all its delightful variations. It’s no surprise that food lovers from across the globe visit for a taste of this culinary scene.

Every local has their go-to dining spots. Here are my personal favorites.

Breakfast

Brunch in Montréal is serious business, with countless restaurants boasting incredibly long lines every Sunday. Don’t miss out on trying a Montréal-style bagel—light, sesame-encrusted, and typically served sliced with cream cheese and lox (a type of smoked salmon). For me—and for Montréal icon Leonard Cohen, who lived nearby—Bagel Etc. serves the fluffiest Fairmount bagels, making it a must-visit. However, I recently discovered Arthur’s Nosh Bar in Saint-Henri, and their syrniki cottage-cheese pancakes nearly tempted me to skip my beloved bagel. Almost.

To avoid the lines, or at least the sluggish ones, stop by one of the two renowned bagel shops in Mile End: St-Viateur Bagel or Fairmount Bagel, where you can snag a fresh bagel and a container of cream cheese right out of the oven.

Coffee 

One of the aspects I long for most when I’m away from Montréal is its café culture. Hip cafés abound, serving exceptional coffee and delectable pastries that… (alright, I’m heading out to one right now).

Coffee aficionados who understand terms like “third wave,” “fair trade,” and “organic” will find plenty to satisfy their cravings. The app Th3rdwave features a great list of cafés and allows you to earn points for free drinks. Personally, I lean towards ambiance – and Le Dépanneur Cafe in Mile End offers an inviting vibe with musicians playing mellow tunes all day. My second favorite, Crew Café, located in a beautifully ornate former bank building in Square Victoria, may be the most stunning coffee shop I’ve ever visited.

Lunch

Schwartz’s Deli is the quintessential destination for Montréal-style smoked meat – thick slices of brisket sandwiched between two pieces of rye bread. However, if you prefer to dine with locals and skip the crowds, check out Snowdon Deli. Just be sure to research your options, as not every spot serves it well. 

For a fantastic vegetarian sandwich, swing by Santropol near McGill University and try the Duluth – a delightful mix of caramelized onions, honey, pear, cheddar, and arugula on thick pumpernickel bread.

Poutine is Québec’s signature dish, and I recommend getting a serving from a casse-croûte (snack shack) along a rural road or in the provincial capital. However, you can also enjoy a delicious plate in the city at La Banquise or Ma Poule Mouillée, which adds spicy Portuguese chicken to its poutine. Pro tip: grab your poutine to-go for a picnic in nearby Parc La Fontaine.

Aperitivo

Montreal boasts some fantastic parks – Laurier, La Fontaine, Jarry, Jeanne-Mance, and more – where you can enjoy alcohol outdoors as long as you’re seated at a picnic table and have a substantial meal (think a baguette and cheese instead of a bag of chips). So pick up a bottle of wine, some charcuterie, and crusty bread, and settle in for a delightful afternoon of people-watching. 

Alternatively, find a spot on a terrasse – the local term for a restaurant or bar patio that extends onto the street when the weather warms up. Some of my favorite terrasses are at craft breweries like Dispensaire on rue Prince-Arthur and Messorem near the Lachine Canal. If you prefer cocktails and wine, Le Majestique holds a special place in my heart – or maybe it’s just the memory of their incredible foot-long gourmet hotdog that lingers. 

Dinner

With over 4000 restaurants in Montréal, choosing the best can be quite challenging. However, Damas, a well-established Syrian restaurant known for its indulgent tasting menu and wine pairings, might just be the top contender – or so I've heard, as it’s a bit above my current budget. (I’m excellent company for anyone willing to treat, by the way.) A newer option, Vin Mon Lapin, specializes in natural wine and small plates and was recognized as Canada’s best restaurant by Canada’s 100 Best.

Sushi Momo is one of my all-time favorites: its plant-based sushi (yes, you read that right) rivals the traditional kind in taste and quality. I also enjoy the cozy atmosphere at Elena, where I can savor a pizza along with a glass of natural wine.

Bar

My go-to neighborhood bar in Montréal is Else’s. It offers everything I desire in a drinking spot: trendy locals, cozy lighting, eclectic decor, strong drinks, a lively staff, and the best carrot cake I’ve ever had. (Please keep this a secret; I’d rather it not become too popular.)

If you're aiming to impress a date, visit Bar George, where the intricate Anglophilic decor may give insight into the historical tensions between French Canadians and the British. For a laid-back dive bar experience with locals over a few beers, you can't go wrong with Grumpys, a favorite of writer Mordecai Richler. 

Here’s to good times – and enjoy your meal.