My Journey: Discovering Andermatt and the Swiss Alps

Sandie Kestell, the Dinogo Planet Destination Editor for Central & Eastern Europe, recently visited Andermatt, Switzerland. Here, she shares valuable tips and insights for those planning a similar adventure.

I have a fascination with the Alps. Most of the year, I find myself daydreaming about the ski season, but I know from experience that summer in the Alps can be just as delightful—perhaps even more so. For weeks leading up to my trip, I envisioned myself in Andermatt. It had been ages since my last visit to Switzerland, and I was eager to experience the charming mountain town, breathtaking views, and thrilling adventures.

I arrived in Zürich on a sunny Monday afternoon in early July. From there, it was a scenic 90-minute drive past Lake Lucerne and into the heart of the Alps to reach Andermatt in the Canton of Uri. Here’s what I experienced during my stay.

Sandie reflects on her top experiences from her recent adventure in the Swiss Alps. Sandie Kestell/Dinogo Planet

Where did you stay? What was the atmosphere like?

I lodged at the four-star Radisson Blu Hotel Reussen in Andermatt Reuss, the town's new area just a short walk through the modern train station from the historic center. Opened in 2018, this hotel, along with the five-star Chedi Andermatt, was part of a major development to establish Andermatt as a tourist hub. The design embraces alpine chic; the lobby features a bar and cozy seating around an open fireplace, creating a warm atmosphere despite the hotel's large size. With around 240 rooms and suites, it includes a spa and wellness center with a gym, sauna, steam room, and pool—perfect for unwinding after a day of outdoor adventures.

A good level of fitness is required to conquer the Diavolo Via Ferrata. Sandie Kestell/Dinogo Planet

What was your favorite activity from the trip?

Without a doubt, tackling the Diavolo Via Ferrata was the pinnacle of my experience. This K2-3 climb doesn’t require any prior climbing skills, just a decent level of fitness, a sense of adventure, and a comfort with heights.

I met mountain guide Markus Wey from the Mammut Mountain School at the Imholz Sport shop on Piazza Gotardo, just outside my hotel, to gather all the necessary gear for the climb: a helmet, harness with carabiner clips, and gloves. After a safety briefing, we set off on a brief walk out of town to the starting point of the course, located just past the iconic Teufelsbrücke (Devil’s Bridge) and beside the Suworow Monument.

I clipped onto the sturdy steel cable and began my ascent, cautiously reaching for the first rungs anchored into the rock face. Once I got the hang of it, I was exhilarated by the thrill of the climb, sneaking glances at the breathtaking alpine scenery. The sound of water rushing through the Schöllenen Gorge below accompanied us for nearly the entire 450m (1476ft) vertical climb. We paused about two-thirds of the way up at a slight clearing that fit a wooden bench, allowing us to catch our breath, soak in the view, and recharge before the final stretch to the summit. In total, it took just over two hours to conquer the via ferrata. The views from the top are absolutely breathtaking, and you’ll feel an immense sense of accomplishment!

The ride to Vermigelhütte mountain hut offered breathtaking mountain vistas. Sandie Kestell/Dinogo Planet

What was the most picturesque moment of the trip?

Everything in Andermatt is a feast for the eyes! A particularly unforgettable experience was my e-bike journey from Andermatt through the stunning Unteralptal valley to the Vermigelhütte mountain hut and back, covering a round trip of about 25km (16 miles). My guide, Sales Danioth, and I chose e-bikes to tackle the gentler inclines effortlessly, ensuring a leisurely ride. We pedaled along a gravel path beside the Unteralpreuss River, surrounded by breathtaking scenery: lush high pastures, vibrant wildflowers and alpine roses, with majestic peaks looming in the background. At one point, we heard the delightful sound of cowbells and encountered a group of friendly cows grazing by the path, which of course led to a lovely stop for a quick meet-and-greet.

We reached the Vermigelhütte mountain hut in about an hour and took a well-deserved break there. This secluded hut serves as an overnight stop for hikers traversing the 81km (50 mile) Vier-Quellen-Weg (Four Springs Trail), which leads to the sources of the Rhine, Reuss, Ticino, and Rhone rivers. We made our way back along the same path, and upon returning to town, we took the elevated route beside Andermatt Golf Course, recently named Switzerland’s Best Golf Course in 2023. The views from here were delightful, showcasing the course and a charming perspective of Andermatt.

Trace the very roads and mountain passes that James Bond traveled in the 1964 film.

What was the most touristy activity you engaged in?

Switzerland's mountain passes are renowned for their breathtaking views, winding switchbacks, and rich history as trade routes. They attract drivers, motorcyclists, and cyclists from around the globe. I couldn’t resist joining in, so I embarked on a mountain drive, weaving through the stunning Furka, Nufenen, and Gotthard passes. My guide and driver was the car enthusiast Armin Duddek, and we cruised in style in his Ferrari Portofino M Cabrio. No matter where I looked, the scenery was nothing short of spectacular, featuring towering ice-capped peaks, serene alpine lakes, magnificent glaciers, and lush valleys.

We set off along the Furka Pass from Andermatt, navigating the same hairpin turns that James Bond tackled in the 1964 movie Goldfinger. There’s even a road sign labeled James Bond Strasse at one of the lookout points. We paused at the renowned Hotel Belvédère (now closed), where we caught our first sight of the retreating Rhône Glacier before continuing to the village of Gletsch and on to the Nufenen Pass. More breathtaking curves led us to the summit at 2478m (8130ft), where remnants of snow lingered in the summer warmth, and we stopped to observe a large group of ibex grazing on the patches of snow by the roadside.

As we proceeded along the Nufenen Pass toward the Italian-speaking Ticino and the town of Airolo, we merged onto the Gotthard Pass. Our final destination was Lago della Piazza, home to the Sasso San Gottardo fortress-turned-museum, which tunnels deep into the mountain. We soaked in the untamed beauty before beginning our winding return journey to Andermatt.

Take a ride on the Gütsch-Express gondola for a dining experience at Gütsch by Markus Neff, Andermatt's premier restaurant. Sandie Kestell/Dinogo Planet

What was the most memorable dish you enjoyed?

It’s hard to pick just one favorite dish, so let’s call it a tie. The freshly made spaghetti topped with Périgord truffles at Gütsch by Markus Neff was simply exquisite. This restaurant stands out in Andermatt’s dining scene, and its location atop the Gütsch-Express gondola makes the meal even more special.

For a taste of traditional Swiss cuisine, Restaurant Sonne in the old town is a fantastic choice. I highly recommend the cheesy Älpler Magronen macaroni, which comes with potatoes and applesauce. While you're there, be sure to try the delightful Swiss Möhl Saft cider—it’s just perfect.

Did you bring back a memento?

I brought back the ultimate edible souvenir: Swiss cheese. A short 20-minute drive from Andermatt along the Furka Pass takes you to the family-owned Alp Galenstock cheese dairy. Here, you can learn how the Meyer family crafts their alpine cheese, from heating the milk and pressing the curds to soaking the finished cheese in brine and aging it in cold storage. I even got to sample some of their delicious mild Mutschli cheese—what a delight!

I couldn’t resist taking home a wheel of cheese. I purchased mine directly at the dairy, but anyone passing by can also stop at the Alp Shop across the road, where the family sells cheeses, yogurts, and a variety of homemade treats. The shop operates on an honesty system, so remember to bring cash.

Sandie visited Andermatt as a guest of Andermatt Swiss Alps. Dinogo Planet does not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable coverage.