Panama: Visit for the Canal; Stay for the Sofitel Legend Hotel

The Dinogo Perspective

Having opened its doors in January 2023, the Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo in Panama City is already steeped in history, thanks to its historic architecture and prime location, along with the esteemed reputation of the Sofitel Legend brand. The hotel stands out as an elegantly understated grande dame, excelling in every aspect: the design is exquisite, the staff is attentive, the cuisine is delightful, and its commendable mission is noteworthy.

The Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo debuted in January 2023 within a French-colonial styled complex in Casco Viejo, the city's historic center known for its cobblestone streets and recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Originally established as a social club in 1917 and later abandoned in 1989, the building has been meticulously restored from its ruins to pay homage to the city’s heritage while seamlessly blending sophisticated modern interior design, appealing to a new generation of visitors. Look for French-inspired details such as wrought-iron room balconies and the marble checkerboard floor in the ballroom.

In the lobby, traces of Panamanian history are everywhere. Ship-lantern centerpieces highlight the city’s maritime legacy, while a photo gallery and a large map chronicle the history of the Panama Canal, from the French's initial unsuccessful attempt in the 1880s to the successful U.S. effort completed in 1914, culminating in the canal’s return to Panamanian sovereignty in 1999. The staff will guide you through this display upon your arrival.

Who is it suitable for?

The hotel is ideal for travelers seeking a central location without the hustle and bustle; nestled on a quiet street at the edge of the Casco Viejo historic district by the waterfront, it strikes a perfect balance. Inside, social butterflies will enjoy the hotel’s lively and trendy public areas, including a sought-after restaurant, a relaxed lobby bar, a bustling rooftop bar, and a pool. Couples will also find these spaces feature cozy nooks for intimate moments.

The Legacy

There are only six Sofitel Legend hotels worldwide, each residing in historic buildings with fascinating stories. The Panamanian location fits perfectly into this narrative.

The hotel was constructed on the former grounds of Club Union, a social hub that once welcomed notable figures like Queen Elizabeth, Albert Einstein, and Helen Keller. In 1968, the military seized control and transformed it into a recreational center for officers. In 1989, it was bombed by the U.S. in a misguided attempt to capture General Manuel Antonio Noriega, the former CIA informant-turned-dictator (who was not present). Despite the damage, the remnants of the building retained their grandeur: films such as James Bond’s Quantum of Solace were filmed here, and a city tour guide mentioned attending raves in the ruins. Restoration experts, including Panamanian architect Manuel Choy, preserved the remaining structure and recreated the rest based on extensive research and UNESCO guidelines.

The Setting

The hotel is situated in the historic district of Casco Viejo in Panama City, positioned on a small peninsula away from the city center. This vibrant, pedestrian-friendly area is teeming with bars, restaurants, museums, and tourists, creating a lively atmosphere enhanced by music and outdoor dining in the park-like squares scattered throughout. The neighborhood also sees a surge of cruise ship passengers whenever a ship docks. Casco Viejo was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, showcasing a unique juxtaposition of beautifully restored, flower-adorned French colonial hotels alongside neglected, decaying structures awaiting restoration—often hindered by funding issues and stringent historic preservation laws. This contrast highlights the city’s intricate past, present, and evolving future.

The Sofitel is perched right by the water, offering stunning views of both the modern city skyline and the Pacific Ocean from nearly every area of the property, including room balconies, the pool, and the rooftop bar. Yet, it remains just a block or two from the bustling main squares of the neighborhood, ensuring a refreshing sense of tranquility. Additionally, it’s adjacent to a public waterfront promenade lined with local vendors (where I discovered a lovely hand-painted bookmark), and like much of Casco Viejo, it's within walking distance to a variety of restaurants and bars, ranging from fine dining establishments to casual local cafés.

When driving, allow extra time to reach your destination. Traffic can become quite congested between the peninsula and the main city, and the narrow, one-way streets of Casco Viejo are prone to backups.

The Accommodations

The hotel features 159 guest rooms and 35 suites, each adorned with dark wood four-poster beds, parquet flooring, and brass accents, evoking a colonial ambiance. Yet, vibrant touches like sleek velvet sofas and chairs infuse a midcentury-modern flair, updating the classic aesthetic. Be sure to book one of the rooms with wrought-iron balconies, where cushioned seating invites you to relax while enjoying views of Panama Bay and the Pacific Ocean.

Sofitel's dedication to sustainability is evident throughout the hotel. Wooden key cards replace plastic ones, and single-use plastics are nowhere to be found. The hotel also celebrates Panamanian culture: staff uniforms feature embroidery designed by a local artist, soaps are crafted by a nearby shop, and the house coffee is sourced from a local coffee farm.

Culinary Delights

Don’t miss dinner at Caleta, the hotel’s fine-dining venue that has become a favorite among locals. Executive chef Lorenzo Di Gravio, formerly of the Michelin-starred Assaje in Rome, curates a Mediterranean-inspired menu focused on seafood and fresh local ingredients. My friends and I discovered that the simplicity of the dishes elevated their flavors. Highlights for my meat-loving friends included the grilled octopus with pumpkin and celeriac and the succulent suckling pig served with otoe puree and escarole. Initially skeptical about the vegetarian choice of spinach ravioli, I was pleasantly surprised by the light pasta pockets filled with herbed ricotta and spinach, generously drizzled with a delicate and savory saffron fondue—I could have happily eaten that every day during my stay.

For a lighter bite, the sunlit café by the pool offers a relaxed selection of smoothies and bowls. (Tip: opt for breakfast outside here instead of inside at Caleta.) The lobby bar, Mayda, features stylish seating and is perfect for early evening drinks; since you pass through it to access the hotel rooms, you might as well enjoy a French-inspired cocktail and chat with the welcoming staff. While rooftop bars are popular in this city, the Sofitel’s Ammi offers unique twists that make it a worthwhile destination. It features private nooks and terraces ideal for small groups or couples, hosts live Latin music performances, and even has an intimate speakeasy hidden behind a secret door, revealing a cozy bar with jungle-themed decor.

Activities to Explore

In Casco Viejo, all pathways lead to several central squares adorned with trees and statues, where bars and restaurants offer outdoor seating and sometimes host musical performances or pop-up movies.

While the bars and restaurants primarily cater to tourists (the area may initially resemble an EPCOT-style version of Panama City), there are numerous chances to connect with locals. Visit Mía Mia Centro Artesanal to browse handmade crafts by Panamanian artisans; pop into the vibrant boutique Rako for a chat with artist Andres Rivera about his colorful pop-art prints and clothing; and seek out Jabriel Lafrance painting in his open-door gallery to discuss his artwork. Additionally, engage with women from the Guna community, who display and sell their traditional molas in nearby parks (Plaza Carlos V and along the Paseo las Bóvedas promenade next to the Sofitel). These intricately embroidered textiles, rooted in Guna mythology, serve as clothing and standalone art pieces, and the artists behind them are truly talented. Learn more about their craft at the Mola Museum, a small gallery in Casco Viejo showcasing the history, significance, and creation of molas.

The Panama Canal is the main attraction in Panama City, and the Miraflores Visitors Center, the best place to watch boats navigate the locks, is just a 30-minute drive away. Arrive right when it opens at 8 a.m. to beat the crowds, and make sure to catch the hourly IMAX 3D movie detailing the canal’s history and future. To deepen your understanding of what you witnessed at the locks, visit the Panama Canal Museum, located back near the hotel in Casco Viejo. Also, don’t miss the Biomuseo, a 20-minute drive from the hotel, renowned for Frank Gehry’s stunning architecture. Even if you’re not particularly into science, this museum celebrating Panama’s biodiversity is fascinating and enjoyable to explore.

Staff and Service

The attentive staff at the Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo Panama City are remarkably skilled, despite having opened just a few months prior to our visit. Dressed in traditional attire (white with designs by a local artist), they always appeared composed and welcoming, never showing signs of fatigue from our endless inquiries or our enthusiastic recounting of our daily adventures.

Accessibility Features

Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo offers three ADA-compliant rooms, including one suite. These accommodations are equipped with grab bars, handheld showerheads, accessible water controls, and folding seats. Additionally, the hotel provides a mobile ADA pool lift and ensures all areas are accessible with ramps.

Commitment to Sustainability and Community

The hotel collaborates with a local company to collect recyclables and is actively measuring the environmental impact of this initiative. It sources seafood and produce from Panamanian micro-enterprises, participates in neighborhood beach cleanups, and composts kitchen waste for a nearby community garden. The hotel's goal is to reduce food waste by 15% in 2023 and by 50% by 2025.

Building relationships within the community is a priority as well. During my tour of the hotel, general manager David Kianni shared insights about their partnership with the FSC Indigenous Foundation, a global organization dedicated to uplifting and safeguarding Indigenous rights and resources. Through this collaboration, Sofitel staff provide business coaching to local artists and artisans, while also offering them space to showcase and sell their creations, either in meeting rooms or at the pool bar depending on the occasion.

The hotel has recently initiated a partnership with Fundación Iguales, a nonprofit in Panama City advocating for LGBTQIA+ rights. This collaboration will enable the hotel to provide internship training programs for Fundación members in various aspects of hotel management, including roles in concierge, reception, and restaurant services.