Reasons I Still Cherish San Francisco, Despite Recent Headlines

I lived in San Francisco for 15 years before moving away in 2021. Whenever I share this, the typical response is along the lines of, “Isn’t it sad what has happened to San Francisco?”

Indeed, some unfortunate events have transpired in San Francisco. There are too many homeless individuals. There are excessive drug issues on the streets — including deaths from fentanyl. Crime rates have risen. Additionally, the remote work trend that emerged during the pandemic has likely impacted San Francisco more than any other place, leaving parts of downtown feeling like a ghost town.

So, what does this mean for visitors?

First off, there are fewer tourists. Hotel rates are lower. Securing reservations at restaurants has become easier. The negative headlines have adversely impacted San Francisco’s tourism. However, the reality is that travelers are returning. SF Travel reports that visitor numbers in 2023 are projected to be down only 11 percent from 2019 levels (after a 55 percent drop in 2020). While hotel prices have soared across much of the country, the average daily hotel rate in SF is actually 10 percent lower than in 2019.

Do lower prices matter if the experience is unpleasant? Not really, but based on my trip this August, I believe it’s a fantastic time to visit San Francisco for those in the know.

My friends and I were pleasantly surprised by how clean the city looked and how the homelessness issue wasn’t as severe as we had anticipated. Yes, the Financial District was quiet with many closed shops, but it felt clean and enjoyable, and the neighborhoods were lively.

A day exploring the city

On my first day, I strolled from the iconic Fairmont Hotel on Nob Hill, where I was staying, to the Financial District for a coffee. It was noticeably quieter, lacking the usual influx of tens of thousands of commuters driving, training, or ferrying into the city for their typical 9 to 5. While many shops were closed or empty, a natural result of the worker exodus, the area was clean. Clearly, significant efforts have been made to clean up downtown, and I noticed new activities emerging. Several individuals in yellow jackets were around, and I later learned they are hired by the city to support the police as part of a program aimed at enhancing public safety in various neighborhoods.

After my coffee, I went for a run along the Embarcadero. It’s a perfect spot for exercising, with the stunning bay on one side and the city on the other—flat the whole way, without any interruptions or hills. The weather in SF is ideal for running, not too hot and not too cold. It was a pleasant 68 degrees, and I felt great—at least as great as one can feel while running. I treated myself to a delicious lunch at one of my old favorites, Hog Island Oyster Co., on the patio of the Ferry Building overlooking the bay. I enjoyed a half dozen Tomales Bay Pacific oysters and an avocado, corn, and tomato salad. In just two bites, I was reminded that Northern California’s farm-to-table cuisine is hard to beat.

Later that evening, a friend and I strolled over to North Beach and enjoyed a fantastic dinner at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana. Even though I now reside in New York, famous for its pizza, I still crave the pizza from Tony’s. After our meal, we visited a nearby dispensary (when in Rome . . . ) and made our way to Washington Square to relax and soak in the evening. San Franciscans have a deep love for their parks. A thoughtful individual had set up a sound system, playing music at a pleasant volume; dozens of locals lounged on the grass, playing games, and exuding pure happiness.

Foggy evenings and vibrant restaurants

Later that week, a friend and I rode our bikes to the Marina neighborhood for some wine before heading to the new Tunnel Tops Park nestled between the Presidio and Crissy Field along the bay, offering stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge. As the fog rolled in, I felt right at home. I know there aren’t many fog enthusiasts out there, but if you are one, summer in SF is a dream. We met up with friends (dressed appropriately in layers for the changing weather), enjoyed our wine, and watched the day fade away. We capped the night off with dinner at the lively new Turkish–Middle Eastern spot Dalida in the Presidio. San Francisco remains vibrant, and chefs Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz are certainly making Dalida worthy of all the excitement. I’m still dreaming about the kayseri mantisi: butter-roasted lamb dumplings served in a garlic, yogurt, and tomato sauce.

During two evenings, I shared dinner with friends residing in the city. I posed questions that mostly earned me puzzled expressions:

“What’s life like in SF?”

“What do you think? We’re here [insert setting], having a fantastic time, soaking up the weather, the scenery, the people, the food, the wine, and all the wonderful aspects of San Francisco, and you’re asking what it’s like?”

“And what about the headlines?”

“What about the headlines?”

“Well, it makes the city sound like it’s facing Armageddon.”

“Do you think the media might be blowing things out of proportion?”

On my last day, I strolled through Union Square, which felt quieter than before but still lively. Most shops had someone stationed at the entrance to ensure only authorized visitors entered. Honestly, it seemed those screeners had little to do. I passed the location where a friend is set to launch two new luxury watch stores (Patek Philippe and Rolex) early next spring. He believes that investing in San Francisco’s recovery is a sound choice—and even thinks it will thrive more than ever. I then headed to an old favorite, Zuni Café on Market Street, for lunch. I indulged in more oysters, a salad, salmon, and a glass of white wine. It felt great to be back.

I wrapped up the day by taking the new Central Subway from Chinatown to Oracle Park for a Giants game. Oracle Park is one of my favorite spots in the city. (Two others, Golden Gate Park and Ocean Beach, will have to wait until my next visit.) I haven't visited every stadium in the country, but I confidently declare Oracle as the best. It's hard to top: stunning views of the bay and the Bay Bridge, along with the freshest air. It’s simply wonderful. The Giants may have lost, but the beauty of attending a baseball game is that the outcome isn’t the main focus. It’s all about the atmosphere—eating, drinking, enjoying the weather, people-watching, and chatting with friends. Everyone seemed to leave the stadium with a smile, and I know I did, already planning my next visit back.