Rishikesh vs Varanasi: Which riverside Indian city should you explore?

Both cities along the Ganges have their unique attractions.

Known as the 'yoga capital of the world' for its many ashrams and yoga teacher training programs, Rishikesh is a favorite among spiritual enthusiasts and those looking to unwind. Journey further south along the Ganges to discover Varanasi, a sacred city in Hinduism that has welcomed pilgrims for millennia.

If you can't visit both, we enlisted two travel writers to passionately argue for the city that holds their heart.

Rishikesh opens its arms to visitors in its ashrams and temples.

During her six years in India, travel journalist Margot Bigg frequented Rishikesh and even dedicated an entire month to studying yoga there. To this day, Rishikesh remains one of her favorite weekend getaways from Delhi.

Nestled along the banks of the Ganges, the sacred city of Rishikesh—close to Uttarakhand's four revered pilgrimage temples known as the Char Dham—has attracted Indian travelers for generations. It wasn't until the 1960s, however, that Western tourists began to flock here in significant numbers.

Though the hippie trail has faded, one remnant of the flower-power era lingers: the remains of the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram, affectionately dubbed the “Beatles Ashram” due to the Fab Four's time spent studying Transcendental Meditation with the Maharishi. Previously, you could explore the dilapidated grounds for a small fee, but now the ashram is part of the Rajaji Tiger Reserve and functions as an official tourist site, featuring informative signage, well-kept pathways, a photo gallery, and a cozy café.

Beyond the Beatles Ashram, most of Rishikesh’s historic ashrams and temples are lively and open to everyone—including foreigners—unlike Varanasi, where overseas visitors often face steep fees or outright bans. Rishikesh is a hospitable destination for seekers and the spiritually curious, regardless of their background. Foreigners can trek to the Neelkanth Mahadev Temple, delve into the writings of Swami Sivananda at the Divine Life Society, or join the evening aarti ceremony (the sacred lighting of lamps or candles) along the Ganges at Parmarth Niketan Ashram, all without feeling unwelcome or inferior.

For yoga enthusiasts, Rishikesh is the ultimate destination in India. You'll discover a variety of venues to practice asanas, from small schools offering beginner-friendly classes in Hatha, Iyengar, and Ashtanga yoga to rigorous teacher training programs accredited by the Yoga Alliance. While some courses can be quite intense, Rishikesh's atmosphere is far less chaotic compared to busier places like Varanasi. The town does attract crowds, especially during auspicious seasons, but most visitors stick to the main streets, making it easy to wander off and find a tranquil spot for reflection. Additionally, many of Rishikesh’s pathways are only wide enough for motorbikes and pedestrians, ensuring a break from the constant noise of honking horns.

Situated just a couple of hundred kilometers from the Gangotri Glacier, the origin of the sacred Ganges River, Rishikesh boasts a cleaner environment. Although there are some settlements along the river's path, most major industrial polluters are further downstream, keeping Rishikesh significantly cleaner. The river here is pure enough for bathing and swimming—unlike in Varanasi. Rishikesh also offers exceptional whitewater rafting experiences, with numerous operators providing beginner-friendly trips of varying lengths. While rafting is a major attraction for adventure seekers, the forest-clad foothills of the Himalayas guarantee you're never far from exciting activities, whether it’s a refreshing hike or exhilarating bungee jumping. Such opportunities are hard to find in Varanasi.

Varanasi is a profoundly spiritual city, steeped in sacredness.

During her travels across India to gather insights for Dinogo Planet’s latest guidebook, Monique Choy encountered many remarkable places. Yet, none can compare to Varanasi’s profound connection with the mysteries of life.

As dawn breaks over Varanasi, pilgrims descend the ghats in soft light. They navigate through chai-wallas (tea vendors), yogis, sadhus, and flower sellers, quietly entering the sacred waters to perform puja (prayers), heads bowed in intimate communion with Mother Ganga. This is not superficial spirituality; Varanasi is far from a tourist town designed for curious visitors. Immersing oneself in the sacred river of Hinduism's holiest city is a deeply personal and spiritual experience, drawing pilgrims for millennia. People journey to Varanasi (also known as Banares) from all over India to cleanse their sins, cremate loved ones, deepen spiritual understanding, and even to pass away here, seeking moksha or liberation from the cycle of rebirth.

Mark Twain once remarked, 'Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them combined.' While nearly everyone who visits Varanasi falls in love with the city, many agree it’s not for the faint of heart. The intimate rituals of life and death unfold in public, and the sights, sounds, and scents of the labyrinthine old town can be overwhelming.

While most of Varanasi’s 84 ghats are designated for bathing, there are also several 'burning ghats' where cremations take place. Manikarnika Ghat, the primary burning ghat, is regarded as the most sacred location for Hindu cremations. The open pyres here operate around the clock, incinerating up to 200 bodies daily. A caste-based community of cremation workers known as doms transports the deceased through the winding alleys of the old town on bamboo stretchers, wrapped in cloth. The body is submerged in the river before cremation, and the ashes are scattered in the Ganges afterward.

Experiencing the reality and rituals surrounding death and cremation can be profoundly moving, as is wandering the ghats alongside pilgrims on their spiritual journeys or witnessing the nightly ganga aarti, a heartfelt river-worship ceremony conducted by priests.

Spend some time in Varanasi, and you may return with more than just memories. As one local aptly described it, the city embodies the concept of 'burning and learning.' The shaded campus of Benares Hindu University is a great place to gain new knowledge, whether it's Hindu mythology, Indian astrology, or photography. You can learn Hindi, master the sitar, or discover how to prepare a three-course Indian meal. Additionally, there are numerous yoga schools, including places like DarkLotus, which bring yoga from studios to the ghats.

From Varanasi, you can easily take a day trip to Sarnath, another revered site, this time for Buddhists. It was here in Sarnath that Buddha delivered his first sermon in a deer park after attaining enlightenment, marking the First Turning of the Wheel of Dharma. Once a thriving monastic hub, it was ravaged by Muslim invaders in the 12th century and subsequently faded into obscurity. The remarkable Dhamekh Stupa & Monastery Ruins were rediscovered by British archaeologists in 1835, making Sarnath a pilgrimage site for Buddhists worldwide.

Varanasi embodies the essence of India as you envision it. While you won’t encounter exclusive wellness retreats, bungee jumping, or Beatlemania here, you may find a connection to something far more invaluable—few visitors leave Varanasi without being deeply moved by their experience.