S3, E14: Exploring One of the World’s Most Diverse Cities

This week on Unpacked, we head north to Toronto, Ontario, one of the globe's most culturally rich cities, to discover the factors that contribute to its diversity—and how we, as travelers, can engage meaningfully with it.

Transcript

Bruce Bell, tour guide: Toronto wasn’t always known for its diversity. Historically, it resembled America in that it was under British rule, which controlled our immigration policies, resulting in minimal immigration. It wasn’t until after World War II that Canada began managing its own immigration, subsequently opening the doors to people from around the world. This market played a significant role in that transformation.

Aislyn Greene, host: I’m here at the entrance to St. Lawrence Market. It’s expansive, featuring lofty arched ceilings and bustling with produce, fresh meats and fish, and food vendors at every turn. That gentleman you just heard is like the resident historian of the market.

Bruce: Hi there, I’m Bruce Bell. For the past 25 years, I've been the historian and tour guide at St. Lawrence Market in downtown Toronto.

Aislyn: I’m Aislyn Greene, and this is Unpacked, our podcast that delves into a challenging travel topic each week. This week, as part of our “Unpacking” series, we're in Toronto, recognized as one of the world’s most diverse cities, where at least 180 languages are spoken.

However, it wasn't always this way. Bruce grew up in northern Ontario and has been living in Toronto for nearly 50 years. He recalls that in the 1960s, even something as simple as garlic was considered rather strange.

Bruce: You know, it wasn’t British. My mother and father were both British and immigrated after the war. My mother had never even heard of garlic. The only advice she received was to avoid strong smells in the kitchen. But as she began to cook, she developed a passion for it. I remember the first time I caught a whiff of garlic in our home—she said, “Don’t tell anyone.” Back then, you couldn’t find garlic in the market, but as the city expanded and welcomed more people from different countries, the market transformed, reflecting the diversity of its vendors today.

Aislyn: The market is truly vibrant. We stroll past a stall named Family Food Market, where asparagus, carrots, and yes, garlic are neatly arranged. We also check out oysters and fresh British Columbia salmon at Seafront Fish Market, recognizable by its yellow sail-shaped sign. Bruce makes sure to introduce me to Carousel Bakery—a must-visit for anyone coming to Toronto for the first time.

Bruce: Toronto’s iconic sandwich is the peameal bacon sandwich. It’s what draws everyone to this market. You get five slices of this Canadian delicacy, fried to perfection, served on a bun with a touch of mustard. It’s a real treat—so delicious.

Aislyn: I asked Bruce, what exactly is peameal bacon?

Bruce: Peameal bacon was actually invented right here in the market around 1880, 1885. A butcher named William Davies had the idea to preserve pork by brining it, then rolling it in crushed peas to help it stay together. Nowadays, they use corn instead, which holds it even better, but the name peameal bacon stuck. When you stroll through the market at lunchtime, you’ll see everyone enjoying a peameal bacon sandwich—it’s absolutely delicious.

Aislyn: Next, Bruce leads me downstairs, where the real lunch choices await.

Bruce: One of my favorite spots we’re passing by offers authentic Eastern European cuisine—Hungarian, Russian, Polish food—true comfort food.

Aislyn: They offer pierogies here.

Bruce: Yes, they are famous for their pierogies! I absolutely love them. It’s quite a challenge for me, being here. And just over there is a French crêpe stand. Crêpes are incredibly popular in Toronto; you can find them everywhere.

Aislyn: But we’re not diving into food just yet. There’s still plenty to explore. For a time, this market even served as City Hall, and there are some . . . remnants from that era.

Bruce: We’re now in the basement of the former City Hall, where we can see an old jail. There’s a wall that remains from the colonial prison, where men were once chained.

Aislyn: We leave the old prison behind and head toward a more uplifting scene.

Bruce: This wall features a mural that captures the fun spirit of modern Toronto. It’s a large depiction of people enjoying themselves, with the market prominently included. Fifty years ago, this kind of vibrancy was unimaginable.

Aislyn: Bruce explains that more than 50 years ago, Toronto was quite a serious city.

Bruce: Back in the 1950s, there were strict rules—playing baseball on Sundays was forbidden, and going to the movies was out of the question. It was a very pious and rather dull place, though it was easy to conduct business.

Aislyn: According to Bruce, things began to shift in the 1950s. Movie theaters and various entertainment venues started to emerge, laying the groundwork for the vibrant cultural scene the city is known for today. However, it took some time to gain momentum, culminating in two landmark events in the early 1960s.

Bruce: The turning point came on March 15, 1964, with the arrival of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. They were the celebrity couple of the era, staying in our city despite not being married to each other, and sharing a bed. Protests erupted outside the King Edward Hotel as a result.

However, there were plenty of supporters as well. The arrival of Liz and Dick marked a significant turning point, leading people to declare, 'We want to embrace more fun.' Shortly after, the Beatles arrived and stayed in the same room as Liz and Dick. These events truly bookend the emergence of a modern Toronto, with Liz, Dick, and the Beatles all appearing in the same year.

Aislyn: So the mural symbolizes Toronto’s evolution and growth. The city's entertainment district, filled with vibrant nightclubs and fantastic restaurants, now attracts both locals and visitors. Additionally, the mural contains a little Easter egg for those who are observant.

Bruce: What gives this mural its fame? There’s a picture of me hidden in there.

Aislyn: Oh my goodness, you’re featured in the mural!

Bruce: Yes, that's correct! I've been writing for a newspaper for over 25 years and have a monthly column. Twenty years ago, they included me in the mural.

Aislyn: That’s incredible!

Bruce: I’m still featured there.

Aislyn: The mural is vibrant and full of life, with people singing, dancing, and enjoying food. I notice a woman holding a newspaper that has a huge picture of Bruce Bell’s face on it.

Aislyn [in interview]: You remind me of... who is that actor I'm thinking of?

Bruce: Wayne Newton?

Aislyn: [laughs] Perhaps.

Bruce: I often get compared to Elvis, Wayne Newton, and Clark Gable.

Aislyn: I mean, it’s a very handsome mural here.

As you might have guessed from today’s episode, you’ll join me in experiencing the diverse and delightful surprises that Toronto has to offer. But let’s be real—the city spans 244 square miles, not including the suburbs, and is home to 3 million residents. So, this will hardly cover everything there is to see and do in Toronto. Initially, I felt a bit overwhelmed by this during my trip. How could I possibly fit it all in?

Then I realized that Toronto is one of those cities where you should build a relationship, visiting repeatedly to discover its many different neighborhoods, allowing its secrets to unfold with each trip.

I’m on a ferry, feeling the wind tousle my hair. As we pull away from the mainland, the CN Tower, one of the city’s iconic landmarks, comes into view, emerging from behind the skyscrapers. The ferry is heading to the Toronto Islands, a cluster of three islands just a quick 15-minute ride away. They’re one of the many spots Matthew Jordan might highlight during his Hidden Rivers walking tours.

Matthew Jordan: Just thinking about strolling through downtown, along the waterfront, and catching sight of the island makes me emotional. It’s truly a stunning place.

Aislyn: Since this is a travel podcast, we’ll refer to Matthew as a tour guide today, but his role encompasses so much more.

Matthew: I’m a historian of science and technology, an educator. I’ve taught at universities and guided young tech entrepreneurs and engineers in Silicon Valley on the history and philosophy of technology.

Right now, I’m in Cambridge, Massachusetts, assisting with a course at Harvard University focused on Taylor Swift. I’ve explored a wide range of subjects in various places, but Toronto is my home.

Aislyn: I had a ton of questions about his Taylor Swift course, but let's focus back on his tour company. He started it during the pandemic, a time that was quite bleak.

Matthew: Being in Toronto during that period was really challenging for me. I always viewed Toronto as a hub for concerts, sports events, towering buildings, and vibrant city life. So, if that's how you picture a city, being stuck at home without those experiences makes you question the value of living in such a place.

Aislyn: Creating his tour was a complete turnaround in thinking.

Matthew: Those big attractions like the CN Tower and the impressive skyscrapers are fantastic. We have an amazing downtown area. But that’s not the essence of Toronto. To me, what defines Toronto is encapsulated in the names of its parks. If you check the signs at any park, you’ll see a motto that reads, “A city within a park.” That’s the heart of Toronto.

Aislyn: On his tour, he guides people through these green spaces and shares the story of how the city came to be, starting from deep in its history.

Matthew: My tour kicks off at the conclusion of the last ice age, around 12,000 years ago, when a massive glacier blanketed much of what we now refer to as Toronto and indeed large parts of Canada, including Ontario. As the planet warmed, that glacier began to melt, and centuries of rushing water sculpted the landscape, carving out deep ravines and significant depressions, often leaving behind rivers that follow the path of the glacier’s retreat.

Aislyn: This fundamentally shaped the city’s geography.

Matthew: Toronto features a distinctive slope that angles downward toward Lake Ontario. The melting glaciers played a pivotal role in forming the city's layout, flowing downhill into the lake. This gives Toronto a sort of natural compass; navigating the city is straightforward since south always means heading downhill towards the waterfront and the CN Tower, while heading north means literally going uphill when you head downtown.

Aislyn: As Matthew delved deeper, he uncovered an unexpected detail.

Matthew: One of the first insights I gained during my research is that Toronto boasts the largest ravine system in the world. This was something I had never heard before.

Aislyn: Many of these ravines evolved into some of the city’s finest parks, such as Trinity Bellwoods, a lush, tree-dotted area named after the neighborhood it resides in.

Matthew: These parks often feature deep dips in the landscape with intriguing topographical elements, yet most people simply see them as lovely spaces for picnics on sloped lawns. Have you ever wondered where those slopes originated? How did the city's geography develop into what it is today? That’s what captivated my interest.

Aislyn: He dives into all of this on his tours, and here's how one might begin.

Matthew: The primary walking route I would take leads us along Taddle Creek, one of the hidden underground rivers. It’s known as Philosopher’s Walk, located within the University of Toronto’s campus. It’s a picturesque path, and I spent a lot of time there as a child since my grandparents lived nearby. Little did I know I was walking above a river the entire time!

And that’s how I would kick things off—starting with a bang to truly astonish my audience right from the get-go.

Aislyn: He would also guide people to Nordheimer Ravine, a somewhat concealed gem located just north of downtown. Years ago, the ravine didn't stand out in any significant way.

Matthew: Over the past 75 years, thanks mainly to volunteer efforts, the residents of Toronto have planted countless trees and engaged in significant regenerative forestry, cultivating flowers and improving the soil. As a result, Nordheimer Ravine has transformed into a stunning area, thanks to the dedicated work of many environmentally conscious Torontonians.

Aislyn: He aspires for these tours to motivate individuals to care for their own communities.

Matthew: It’s an essential part of the city's geological and ecological heritage. I feel fortunate to highlight it, and to show that its beauty is a result of substantial effort—much of it voluntary. One of my aims is to inspire a sense of civic responsibility among the people.

Aislyn: Matthew’s tours kick off in May, and this year he plans to mix things up a bit.

Matthew: This summer, I'm planning to organize activities that will be scheduled every week or every other week. I might focus on different areas of the city for a few days, like Thursday through Sunday. For example, I could offer a waterfront tour, a Garrison Creek tour, an East End tour, or explore the Don Valley, all with different themes as I move around the city.

Aislyn: Given Toronto's rapid growth, there's constant construction happening everywhere. However, if Matthew ever feels a pang of loss, he redirects his attention back to the lessons from his tours.

Matthew: This realization has made me understand that there’s one thing they can never take away: the ravines. The elements that have existed for hundreds of thousands, even millions of years, are permanent. Standing at the Prince Edward Viaduct, gazing over the Don Valley, or viewing the Humber River and Scarborough Bluffs, gives you a sense of something eternal. This is the essence of the city. Buildings may rise and fall, but this is the true heart of Toronto.

Aislyn: I'm staying in the bustling city center, immersed in the vibrant atmosphere. I hear a multitude of languages and music, and on top of that, it’s just a five-minute stroll from one of the most unexpected museums I’ve ever encountered.

Elizabeth Semmelhack: We are indeed the only shoe museum in North America, featuring the most extensive collection of international shoes in the world.

Aislyn: Meet Elizabeth Semmelhack, the director and senior curator of the Bata Shoe Museum. As I approach the museum, a massive white and neon '80s athletic sneaker catches my eye, prominently displayed on the side of the four-story building. Yes, there’s a whole exhibition dedicated to '80s footwear, and it's fantastic. We'll dive into that soon, but first, let’s explore the concept of a shoe museum.

Elizabeth: The museum was founded by Mrs. Sonja Bata, who began her shoe collection after marrying Mr. Bata. At the time, the Bata shoe company was in the process of rebuilding post-World War II. As she traveled the world with her husband, she made a keen observation: 'People’s feet are largely the same everywhere, but the traditional footwear can vary dramatically.' This led her to ponder the reasons behind those differences.

Aislyn: Thus, Mrs. Bata embarked on a mission to collect footwear—an extensive collection. As of 2024, the museum houses over 15,000 artifacts.

Elizabeth: Our oldest artifact dates back 4,500 years, while some of the latest additions are NFT sneakers designed for the metaverse. In 1995, the museum was constructed by Raymond Moriyama, and since we opened our doors to the public, we've been actively collecting and serving as a research center.

Aislyn: The museum features three temporary exhibition spaces and a permanent gallery that hints at the rich stories behind the shoes. While we conserve footwear, Elizabeth emphasizes that they do not perform restorations.

Elizabeth: One of our priorities is to maintain the evidence of wear. For instance, we have a pair of shoes worn by Elvis Presley, and the wear pattern reveals how he danced on stage. We aim to preserve these signs of use. However, we also want to ensure that items are properly conserved. If we have something beautifully beaded with loose strands causing beads to fall off, we’ll retrieve those fallen beads and secure the string, but we won't make the item look brand new.

Aislyn: Elizabeth has a background in art history, and while she never planned to manage a shoe museum, she finds joy in her role. We're currently in her office, where she has a mug that reads, 'Warning, I may start talking about shoes at any moment.' Her walls are adorned with numerous pictures, including a Peter Max illustration and a vintage-looking can of acrylic spray from the 1950s, along with countless shoes.

Elizabeth: I realized that shoes are ubiquitous and have always been. The central questions that motivate me—examining the intersections of gender, economics, and fashion, along with items that are mass-consumed—can all be explored through shoes.

Over the years, I’ve discovered that for any societal or cultural question I have, there's usually a pair of shoes that can guide me in exploring that topic.

Aislyn: She walks me through some of the ongoing exhibits, and naturally, I inquire about her own choice of footwear.

Aislyn [in interview]: Do people ask you about your footwear in every interview?

Elizabeth: Not usually, but it does happen frequently, and it’s the biggest downside of my job.

Aislyn: Right. I can only imagine—

Elizabeth: I simply don’t have the time to go shoe shopping!

Aislyn: Exactly! I suppose the shoes you look for are more along the lines of what we see here, right? It's a whole different approach to shoe shopping.

Elizabeth: Absolutely. I'm always on the lookout to acquire items for the museum, but what will actually fit me?

Aislyn: We're currently in the 1980s exhibit, titled Dress to Impress, an Exploration of Footwear and Consumerism in the 1980s. It'll be on display until March 2025.

Elizabeth: I didn't curate this exhibition; that was Nishi Bassi, our curator. She aimed to explore consumerism during the 1980s, highlighting the emergence of shopping malls and the diverse personalities one could express through fashion choices.

It was quite an eclectic period, but the common theme, as the title suggests, was that everyone was dressing to impress. The exhibition is designed like a 1980s mall, evoking a strong sense of nostalgia, with each shop addressing a different topic.

Aislyn: One of those topics is Dress for Success, which focuses on women entering the white-collar workforce and the expectations surrounding what was deemed 'appropriate' attire.

Elizabeth: One often overlooked category of shoes is this trio here, which may seem quite conservative. However, they symbolize the challenge women faced when entering the white-collar workforce, as they didn't have a male suit—long established as a symbol of authority. So how could women be taken seriously? What should they wear?

Aislyn: Elizabeth mentions that there were guides advising women to adopt men’s-inspired blazers paired with modest skirts—a feminine twist on the traditional male power suit. But then the question arose: what should they wear on their feet?

Elizabeth: Flats were seen as unappealing, while ultra-high heels were deemed too provocative. Thus emerged the 'power heel' of the 1980s—a low, subtle heel indicating that one meant business.

Aislyn: We now come to a shoe that makes me chuckle. It's somewhat unfair to this shoe, given its groundbreaking status at the time.

Elizabeth: The rarest shoe in the gallery is this one, known as the RS Computer Shoe, created by Puma in 1986.

Aislyn: This is the part that really cracks me up.

Elizabeth: This shoe had a microchip inside it, and after your run, you could plug it in. It came with a connector and a floppy disk. You'd connect the plug to the back of the sneaker and the other end to your trusty Commodore 64, and it would track how far you'd run and how many calories you burned.

Aislyn: Unfortunately, it didn't quite catch on in the market.

Elizabeth: It was not a bestseller. It was a bit bulky.

Aislyn: But it paved the way for all the wearable technology we use today to monitor our heart rates and steps. So, that Apple Watch you wear? You can thank this hefty ’80s shoe for it.

Elizabeth: Exactly. And this technology has now evolved into something integral to our daily lives.

Aislyn [in interview]: It’s easy to chuckle at things like that—

Elizabeth: I get it, but honestly—back in the mid-1980s, personal computers were becoming a staple in our lives. These were innovative materials that would influence the future significantly.

Aislyn: Elizabeth mentions that while the museum doesn't exclusively showcase Canadian footwear, the latest exhibit titled Exhibit A has a distinctly Canadian angle. It explores crime and footwear forensics alongside the concept of criminality.

Elizabeth: In this exhibit, we highlight two notorious Canadian crimes, concluding with a focus on the Kingston Penitentiary, which incorporated shoemaking as a method of rehabilitating inmates.

Aislyn: The exhibit, running through the summer, highlights a fundamental aspect of forensic science.

Elizabeth: Think about it: a footprint is left behind. But how do you track down the culprit? The exhibit starts with a pair of butler shoes—yes, the classic line 'the butler did it' comes to mind. But what does that stereotype really signify?

Butlers are expected to move discreetly. The butler shoes in our collection have smooth soles to ensure silence while they serve. This silent presence allows them access to the most intimate areas of the household, making them both valued for their stealth and suspected in crimes. So, did the butler really do it?

This scenario raises questions about class and the assumptions surrounding crime. The homeowner might be a robber baron engaged in significant cultural transgressions yet not deemed a criminal. Thus, the exhibition, like all our exhibitions, seeks to challenge and deepen these concepts.

Aislyn: The museum offers yet another lens through which to explore the richness of Toronto.

Elizabeth: Toronto is incredibly diverse, and when we think of diversity as the ability to view things from multiple perspectives, our collection perfectly aligns with what Toronto embodies and is celebrated for.

Aislyn: The Bata Shoe Museum is just one of over 50 museums in the city, alongside countless smaller galleries, such as BAND.

Karen: I'm Karen Carter, co-founder and Executive Director of an arts organization called Black Artists Networks and Dialogue. BAND serves as an art service organization that operates an art gallery.

Aislyn: Karen and I are seated at a table outside the organization’s temporary space in the 401 Richmond building, which has been beautifully restored and transformed into a vibrant arts and culture center. The creaky wooden floors echo with the footsteps of visitors above us as we talk.

Karen explains that she established BAND in 2010 because she recognized the lack of pathways for emerging Black artists and those from other racialized communities.

Karen: Observing the cultural scene, it seemed that dance, theater, and music all had vibrant activity, while visual arts were lacking. This was a key reason for founding the organization and creating a dedicated space. We aimed to support emerging artists because we genuinely wanted to assist them in their careers.

Aislyn: BAND operates on a unique business model compared to other organizations; it's neither a commercial gallery that takes a cut from consignment sales nor an artist-run space. One of the most exciting aspects of BAND is their commitment to viewing the work of any artist who approaches them.

Karen: If you came and expressed interest, we would make it a point to see your work. If the artwork communicated effectively and displayed clear, albeit subjective, talent—though I dislike using terms like 'skill' and 'talent'—we would consider whether there's enough substantial work to warrant a presentation in the gallery.

Aislyn: Once an artist is chosen, BAND compensates them almost three times the typical earnings for emerging visual artists. This approach hasn't always been well-received.

Karen: I recall some artists critiquing us for supposedly giving an unrealistic portrayal of the industry by paying too much. However, that criticism didn't deter us from our mission. We were pursuing our goals, and importantly, we received corporate support for our efforts, which ultimately benefited the artists.

Aislyn: During our conversation, I learned that Karen has significantly influenced Toronto’s art landscape. She played a pivotal role in establishing Myseum, now known as the Museum of Toronto, with the vision of narrating the city's story.

Karen expresses a strong interest in community cultural practices, noting that Toronto is home to a multitude of diverse neighborhoods.

Karen: The diversity of neighborhoods mirrors the cultural richness of the city. For instance, areas like the Danforth represent Greek culture, St. Clair is known as Little Italy, and Eglinton West is often referred to as Little Jamaica. These culturally distinct communities often formed bonds during their migration to the city, creating their own spaces together.

Aislyn: Karen mentions that as the city evolves, the characteristics of these neighborhoods are also changing, with people moving in and out.

Karen: Myseum was conceived with the understanding that nearly every racialized or cultural group in the city has its own community association. The guiding principle was to collaborate with these groups, who are the true custodians of their histories, holding artifacts and records in their cultural associations. Since traditional museums often do not engage in the same practices of accessioning and deaccessioning, partnering with these communities was essential to creating a museum that accurately represents the city's diversity.

Aislyn: Karen is not only the founder and creative director of C-Art, a Caribbean art fair, but she is also currently focused on BAND, which is undergoing renovations for its permanent location. This space is an old Victorian house in Parkdale, with the renovation set to be completed by the end of 2024. As the opening approaches, Karen aims to emphasize that BAND represents more than just an art gallery and wants to expand the range of work they showcase.

Karen: We want to include projects that highlight African Canadian history and culture, which contributes to a broader understanding of the Black presence in this country.

Aislyn: She envisions BAND as a welcoming space for all.

Karen: It’s crucial that it doesn’t come across as a cultural space solely for Black people. The purpose of this space is to ensure that everyone, including those outside the community, is aware of our stories and contributions.

Utilizing culture is vital; it can serve as a means to create safe spaces for tackling tough conversations. Engaging with art may prompt discussions with others or even spark internal reflections about topics that one might typically avoid due to their cultural biases.

Aislyn: Karen maintains lofty ideals about the significance of art within society.

Karen: I am in this field because I firmly believe that art and culture can help us uncover the best aspects of our humanity.

Aislyn: As I leave, I make a stop at BAND Offsite, their pop-up gallery, to explore the current exhibition titled Afrophelia: Beloved. The artist, Frantz Brent-Harris, is a Jamaican sculptor now based in Toronto. His mission statement describes the exhibit as a love letter to Black individuals and their ancestors. A wall features striking red and gold illustrations of masked faces, with several red busts surrounding a central figure draped in vibrant fabric strips. It’s a stunning sight, and I find myself captivated for several minutes.

Aislyn: We’ll conclude this episode with more discussion about food, because one of the best experiences in the city is dining. There’s Afghan cuisine, Tibetan dishes, Russian fare—whatever culinary fantasy you have can be realized here. And when it comes to Thai food, one person stands out with a remarkable influence.

Chef Nuit Regular: Sawasdee Kha. Hello, I’m Chef Nui Regular, the executive chef and co-owner of Pai restaurants, Kiin restaurants, Chaiyo by Pai, Sukhothai restaurants, and Events and Catering by Chef Nui here in Toronto, Canada.

Aislyn: She currently owns 11 restaurants in Toronto, including Kiin, where I enjoyed an incredible 12-course Royal Thai dinner.

Chef Nuit: Royal Thai cuisine is a style of cooking that was traditionally prepared for the Royal Thai family. One of the dishes I prepare is Khanom Jeab Nok, or bird-like dumplings, which were created 220 years ago by the sister of King Rama II.

Aislyn: We begin with what I initially thought was a sculptural centerpiece made of wood, resembling a tree adorned with delicate flowers. To my surprise, those flowers are actually edible.

Restaurant server: We have taro chips with homemade tom yum paste in the center, topped with a red pepper. The purple leaves are from purple yams, dusted with tom yum powder. Those are safe to eat. Just avoid the tree.

Aislyn: We’re savoring Chef Nuit’s spring menu, where each course resembles a small piece of art. There are tom yum oysters and a salad that the chef zestfully prepares with a special citrus right at the table.

Chef Nuit: This ingredient is quite rare in Thailand's street markets, making it special for Royal Thai cuisine. We particularly use the zest and juice in a dish called Yum Mee Klong, which features crispy vermicelli rice noodles.

Aislyn: We conclude our meal with a variety of dishes to share, including crab fried rice, an incredible wagyu steak, and a dish wrapped in banana leaves that Chef Nuit’s mother used to make. The flavors are somewhat familiar yet entirely unique compared to any Thai food I’ve tried before.

Chef Nuit: To me, the distinction between Royal Thai cuisine and regular Thai cuisine is subtle; it's primarily about refinement. The presentation and balance of flavors are much more sophisticated compared to what we typically eat at home.

For instance, in the northern region where I grew up, our dishes tend to be less sweet, focusing instead on salty, sour, and slightly bitter flavors. However, Royal Cuisine achieves a harmonious balance of sweet, sour, salty, and spicy.

Aislyn: This initiative reflects Chef Nuit’s goal to transform perceptions of Thai cuisine. Born in Thailand, she worked as a nurse for many years. She met her husband, Jeff, while he was backpacking in Thailand. Together, they started a modest restaurant there before relocating to Toronto. Disappointed by the local Thai food, she opened her first restaurant, Sukhothai, although it faced challenges initially.

Chef Nuit: I recall receiving a call from a customer who bluntly said, "You don’t know how to cook pad thai." I was taken aback for a moment, shocked, and replied, "I do know how to cook pad thai because I’m from Thailand!"

Aislyn: Indeed, that's what people would say to Chef Nuit, a Thai chef. At that time, the Thai food scene in Toronto was using, shall we say, some unconventional ingredients.

Chef Nuit: When I arrived in Canada, I explored the local Thai cuisine. To my surprise, it was quite different from what I knew back home or what I cooked for myself. I wondered, "Why does the food taste like this?" The colors and flavors were off; for instance, the pad thai I tried was somewhat pink instead of the rich brown tones we have in Thailand. Then Jeff mentioned, "They put ketchup in pad thai!"

That made me realize how the Thai food landscape at the time was influenced by local ingredients available here.

Aislyn: However, Chef Nuit didn't give up. She started importing authentic Thai ingredients like tamarind paste and gradually transformed people's perceptions and tastes. She expanded her restaurant portfolio with spots like Pai and Silva. In 2017, she opened Kiin, marking a significant shift for her. Today, she is celebrated for revolutionizing Thai food culture in the city, attracting crowds eager to experience her iconic dishes.

Chef Nuit: I would recommend my Pad Thai: no ketchup, I promise! It features a base of tamarind paste. Another must-try is the pad kra pao, or holy basil stir fry. And I can't forget khao soi, a northern Thai dish that I take great pride in bringing to Canada, which has now become a favorite among many.

Aislyn: Nowadays, she sees that diners in the city are far more open-minded and eager for culinary adventures.

Chef Nuit: Absolutely! Torontonians are incredibly receptive. One of the wonderful aspects of our city is its cultural diversity, which prepares the people to embrace various cuisines.

Aislyn: The next day, I venture into one of the city's most intriguing culinary areas, Kensington Market. Unlike St. Lawrence, it's not a traditional market, but a vibrant neighborhood brimming with amazing food. And fortunately, I have a guide with me.

Jusep: Hi, I’m Jusep Sim, founder and chief epicurean officer of Chopsticks and Forks, a Toronto-based walking food tour company. We’re currently at Nu Bügel, the first stop on our international food tour, a beloved bagel shop right here in Kensington Market.

Aislyn: This neighborhood has a rich history that spans hundreds of years.

Jusep: It was officially established in 1815 when it was owned by a single family. From those modest beginnings, it has flourished over the past two centuries.

Aislyn: And it has transformed significantly over the decades.

Jusep: Back in the day, this area was known as the Jewish Market. In the ’60s, you could walk along the street and see live chickens in cages outside the kosher butcher shops.

Aislyn: Jusep shares that in the 1970s, American hippies fleeing the draft and Jamaican RastMytourians began to make this place their home.

Jusep: These two communities have profoundly shaped the neighborhood, infusing it with their passion for art and music while also helping to preserve its essence. During my tour, I highlight how the RastMytourians and American hippies laid the cultural groundwork that we celebrate today.

Aislyn: Jusep and I settle at a table next to a fridge brimming with drinks. That buzzing noise you hear while he speaks is actually coming from that fridge.

He orders his favorite bagels for me: the first is a smoked trout sandwich on a sesame bagel, while the second resembles dessert—a toasted coconut bagel stuffed with warm Nutella.

Jusep: There are many flavors packed into this, so take your time chewing; you'll discover different tastes hitting your palate at various moments. It includes arugula, a gourmet horseradish jam, and seeded mustard.

Aislyn: I noticed the jam and immediately wondered, 'What is that?'

Jusep: That’s a horseradish jam. You’ll enjoy the various textures of the bagel; the arugula softens it a bit, while the horseradish jam brings a sharp sweetness, complemented by the earthy flavor of the mustard.

Aislyn: I can’t get enough of the smoked trout sandwich! Even as I speak, I’m reminiscing about that spicy-sweet jam and the wonderfully chewy bagel. Jusep agrees completely.

Jusep: When I first tasted it, I thought, 'Where has this been all my life?'

Aislyn: While I enjoy my meal, Jusep shares that Kensington Market is the last remaining ungentrified neighborhood in downtown Toronto, largely thanks to an unlikely TV show.

Jusep: In the late '70s and '80s, a popular sitcom called The King of Kensington aired. Back then, if you had a TV, you were limited to five channels, so when the show played, the entire country tuned in and discovered this neighborhood. As mass gentrification swept across North America in the '80s and '90s, Kensington was spared because it had become a part of Canadian culture. The idea of demolishing it for shopping malls and condos would have driven Canadians insane.

Aislyn: The neighborhood is now safeguarded by a trust. One of Jusep's favorite aspects of the market is that almost all the shops are family-owned, many for generations.

Jusep: One of the standout features of this neighborhood, which I truly appreciate, is that 99 percent of the shops are family-run. It’s the only place where you can see the history come to life. Most of the food sampled on my tours is prepared by people from their respective countries. For instance, the Chilean dishes are crafted by a Chilean grandmother, while the Tibetan momos and butter tea come from a Tibetan mother. This is a unique aspect of our city that I love to highlight.

Aislyn: Nu Bügel is one of six stops on Jusep’s signature international food tour that focuses on Kensington Market. His aim is to encourage people to step outside their culinary comfort zones.

Jusep: My menu is crafted so that guests can sample foods that may not typically be on their radar. I intentionally choose less common spots. For example, I take people to a Chilean restaurant, and many don’t even know what Chileans eat, let alone what might be available. For my Asian stop, it’s easy to think of Korean, Chinese, or Japanese cuisine. But how many people can even locate Tibet on a map, let alone know about its food? My European tasting features Swedish cuisine, and surprisingly, many are unaware that bagels originated in Poland. Delving into food history can be quite fascinating and revealing about how certain dishes came to be.

Aislyn: The tours last about two and a half hours, and Jusep also offers a second tour with a different perspective.

Jusep: This is a fully fusion food tour. We kick off with a tasting of Japanese coconut curry poutine, which features cheese curds, bacon bits, sriracha mayo, and scallions. Oh yes, that’s the first delight on the tour, paired with butter coffee. We also share the stories behind the cultures, exploring how they blend and why their flavors often complement one another.

Aislyn: Jusep notes that the culinary scene is constantly evolving as new groups settle in the city.

Jusep: The evolution of our food landscape is largely influenced by the influx of immigrants from various regions. For example, during the Afghan war, we welcomed many Afghan refugees, leading to a vibrant Afghan food scene. After 9/11, a significant number of Muslim immigrants arrived, dramatically altering our culinary offerings, with halal meat becoming widely available. In fact, Popeyes was the first major chain to embrace halal options.

Aislyn: Currently, Jusep observes an increase in Mexican immigrants, which has greatly enhanced the city’s taco offerings. These ongoing changes keep his work dynamic as he adapts to Toronto’s ever-expanding diversity, something he truly cherishes about the city.

Jusep: Each new wave of immigrants adds its unique flavor. We’re like a multi-layered cake, but with even more ingredients and nuances than most cities have ever experienced.

Aislyn: As we approach the summer season, everyone I've spoken to insists it's the perfect time to visit. The sun is shining, the islands are sparkling, and the food is just begging you to indulge. I'll add links in the show notes to everything we discussed today, including Dinogo's Toronto travel guide—it's an excellent resource. Enjoy your travels!

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You’ve been listening to Unpacked, a production of Dinogo Media. The podcast is brought to you by Aislyn Greene and Nikki Galteland, with music composed by Chris Colin. Remember: The world can be complex, and we’re here to help you make sense of it.