S3, E5: Exploring Albuquerque

In the third season of Unpacked, we’re launching 'Unpacking,' a series dedicated to discovering some of our favorite travel destinations worldwide. Kicking things off is Albuquerque, a land famed for its hot air balloons, chiles, and amazing outdoor spaces.

Transcript

Aislyn Greene, host: I’m Aislyn Greene, and this is Unpacked, the podcast that delves into one challenging travel topic each week. This week marks the launch of our very first 'Unpacking' episode, where we explore the story of a unique location. Known for its chiles, the filming site of Breaking Bad, and, of course, hot air ballooning, today we’re diving into Albuquerque, New Mexico.

The narrative of Albuquerque revolves around its outdoor landscapes. This Southwestern city is among the oldest in the United States, nestled in the Rio Grande Valley formed 10 million years ago. The connection to the land is profound here, influencing everything from your hotel choices to the New Mexican wines you’ll savor.

Let’s begin at the very top. Quite literally.

I find myself over 300 feet above ground, riding the Sandia Peak tramway, which is whisking me—and a group of others—up to the summit of Sandia Peak.

Sandia tram operator: As you take in the views of the cliff faces surrounding us, you might have noticed their reddish-pink hue. This is actually the origin of the Sandia Mountains' name. 'Sandia' means—

Guests in tramway, in unison: Watermelon.

Sandia tram operator: Exactly! When the early Spanish conquistadors arrived at the Native American settlement in Albuquerque, they gazed at these mountains during sunset, marveling at the vibrant pink that reminded them of a juicy slice of watermelon—and thus the name has endured.

Aislyn: The mountains are a beautiful shade of pinkish-red as they rush by, even though it's far from sunset. Upon reaching the summit, I step out into the brisk alpine air. While most people opt for the shorter, easier trails, I'm seeking a quieter experience. So, I choose the La Luz trail, which meanders along the mountain's side. By the way, this is also the trail you can take to hike up or down if you prefer to skip the tram. (I suggest going down since it’s 7.5 miles one way.)

About thirty minutes later, I pause. I haven’t seen a single soul on the trail. It’s late November, yet the skies are clear and the sun is warming my skin. With 310 days of sunshine each year, this city truly embraces the outdoors.

It’s incredibly peaceful. The only sounds are the wind and the rustling leaves. It’s hard to believe I’m just 15 miles from downtown Albuquerque; the city feels like another world. However, I know that Sandia Peak is more than just a fantastic recreational area. It holds sacred significance as well. For the Sandia people, who have resided here for over 700 years, this mountain serves as both a spiritual and a sustenance source. We’ll delve deeper into the history of the Sandia people and the Sandia pueblo, along with the other 18 pueblos in the state, later in this episode.

For now, I simply recognize that I am walking through the ancestral lands of the Tiwa people, and as a visitor, I have so much to learn.

When I arrive in Albuquerque, it’s late at night. The city sparkles, inviting us as we land. I collect my rental car and make my way to Los Poblanos at a leisurely pace. If you've visited Albuquerque, you might know this inn. It’s renowned for its picturesque, lavender-draped campus designed in 1932 by John Gaw Meem, the architect celebrated as the 'father of Santa Fe style.'

As I head north toward Los Poblanos, I notice the darkness intensifying. By the time I park and switch off my lights, it’s completely dark. I step out and glance up, and suddenly: I'm greeted by the clearest night sky I've witnessed in a year. The stars twinkle down as if to say, 'Yep, we’re still here, and we’re as stunning as ever.'

In that moment, it feels like a warm blanket wraps around me, soothing and peaceful. That sense of calm lingers as I check into my cozy room, featuring hardwood floors, vibrant rugs, and a separate living room and kitchen, complete with a gas fireplace that I immediately ignite.

As you might expect, sleep comes easily that night.

When I awaken the next morning, a completely different scene greets me. The sun is rising, clouds are streaking across the sky—a perfect day for a stroll around the 25-acre grounds with Sarah Sheesley, the marketing director for Los Poblanos.

Sarah Sheesley: These are our culinary gardens, where we grow a variety of herbs, edible flowers, and several perennials and annuals. Beyond these, you'll find our fields.

Aislyn: We’re enveloped by the inn’s stunning lavender fields. While they aren’t in bloom right now, they’ll burst into a vibrant purple in June and July.

Sarah: This entire property has been farmed for thousands of years by the Pueblo people who have long called this area home. Over the years, it was cultivated in various ways until the Rembes arrived in the ’70s, living here with their family for 20 years before transforming it into a cozy B&B and starting to grow organic lavender.

Aislyn: The Rembes still own and manage the property, by the way. Los Poblanos is so intrinsically linked to the land that this connection permeates every aspect of the inn. Since the ’70s, they have incorporated lavender into lotions, salves, soaps, and honey. Now, they even use it, along with other botanicals, in their two new gins, which are delightful. Of course, lavender also appears in dishes at the on-site restaurant, Campo. As we walk into the bustling restaurant, Sarah shares that the inn has even grander plans.

Sarah: The menu features many dishes that tell the larger stories of the land.

Aislyn: Sarah mentions that Los Poblanos is collaborating with New Mexican farmers to revive heritage grains for use in the kitchen, the on-site bakery, and for sale at the farm shop. Head chef Chris Bethoney also prioritizes sourcing meat from New Mexican suppliers, and he has a particular passion for working with corn, a staple in New Mexico.

Sarah: We grind our own corn, nixtamalize it, and create masa, ensuring all our tortillas are made from scratch.

Aislyn: That’s quite the effort just to make your own masa.

Sarah: But he’s managed to incorporate this into our operations. We’re always preserving ingredients. We use items like jujubes, walnuts, and hawthorn, which appear on the menu in surprising ways.

Aislyn: We’ll return to food shortly. First, let’s delve into how modern Albuquerque evolved. The city’s dedication to outdoor spaces dates back to the early 1960s.

Elaine Briseño: There was a man named Rex Funk who moved here from California in the late ’60s. He witnessed massive development there—strip mall after strip mall—where people were crammed together, especially in places like Orange County. It was disheartening to see what happened to the great orange groves and farmland; it’s all gone now.

Aislyn: This is Elaine Briseño, a local journalist with a passion for history.

Elaine: Imagine how wonderful it would have been to preserve that for people—to say, 'This isn’t just our history, but a glimpse into a different way of life, beyond just urban settings.' He wanted to prevent that from happening here.

Aislyn: Now at dusk, we’re inside the Bachechi Open Space, a 27-acre park in the North Valley, not far from Los Poblanos. Birds are soaring in the distance, while people walk, run, bike, or use wheelchairs around us. But back in the 1960s, when urban sprawl was rampant, this was uncertain. There was a major push to transform the nearby Rio Grande into a massive ditch.

Elaine: They wanted to pave it over, creating an artificial channel—essentially turning the river into a giant ditch—removing all the trees because they believed they were consuming too much water.

Aislyn: Elaine mentions that there was also a paper mill that aimed to clear out the mountain trees and utilize the water for its operations. Inspired by Rex, the community said, 'Absolutely not, not in our backyard.' After much political debate, this led to Albuquerque’s Open Space program, now part of the Parks and Rec Department, with Rex as their first superintendent. In the 1970s, they created the city’s iconic Paseo del Bosque, a 16-mile multi-use trail that runs alongside the river. 'Bosque' means 'forest' in Spanish, by the way.

Four decades later, Albuquerque boasts 30,000 acres of open space, out of a total of 120,000 acres. This means that a quarter of the city is dedicated parkland, making nature highly accessible, as Elaine points out. Just a heads up before we hear more from her: after our park visit, we moved to a restaurant, so you'll catch some background chatter.

Elaine: Step outside your front door, and if you’re in the valley, you can find yourself in a forest within just five minutes on foot. There’s no need for extensive planning; you don’t have to designate a specific day for hiking since it’s so convenient.

Aislyn: And the city continues to evolve. The next day, I meet with Terry Brunner, the director of Albuquerque’s Metropolitan Redevelopment Agency, which is leading the charge for a new type of trail.

Terry Brunner: The rail trail will be a seven-mile loop encircling downtown, linking to our Bosque river trail. It will serve both pedestrians and cyclists. Construction is projected to take about four years, but we’re eager to look at the first section we plan to break ground on in the spring.

Aislyn: We’re walking along a gravel path overtaken by weeds, intersected by rusty train tracks. It’s a short five-minute stroll from the Sawmill Market, Albuquerque’s upscale food hall, and only minutes from Old Town.

Terry: Here we are in a vibrant corner filled with activities. On one side of the street is the Albuquerque Museum, while just down the road are the Natural History Museum and the Explora Science Museum. This area is a hub of cultural engagement, and right here will be the entrance to the rail trail.

Aislyn: It’s a lively cultural hub. Historically, this was the site where trains transported lumber in and out of the area. Under the guidance of architect Antoine Predock, who resides in Albuquerque, all facets of the city’s history will be honored.

Terry: Along the 12 stops on the trail, we’ll showcase brief historic insights into Albuquerque, highlighting Native American and Hispanic cultures, as well as industrial zones. This will allow visitors to reflect on what Albuquerque represents as they traverse the trail.

Aislyn: As we stroll, Terry explains that the rail trail will link to the 16-mile Bosque—remember that Rio Grande park that initiated it all?—resulting in a connected pathway of about 23 miles. In the early phases of the project, Terry and his team visited rail trails in New York City, Chicago, Atlanta, and Detroit to gather insights. They observed that these trails have revitalized parts of the cities they traverse.

Terry: This trail will pass through industrial zones that have long been overlooked and lacking in interest. During our tours of trails across the nation, we noticed that they tend to attract an influx of bars, restaurants, cafés, and public spaces that people want to reach via the trails. We believe this can truly rejuvenate the city and draw much more attention to the areas along the trail than they’ve received in years.

Aislyn: A key highlight of the trail is its connection to Albuquerque’s historic neighborhoods.

Terry: Starting from here, it links to Wells Park, then to our downtown area, and connects with the traditional Hispanic community of Barelas, eventually leading back to Old Town. We believe this will create a wonderful pathway for connecting all these regions. Visitors will not only explore these areas but also encounter stops along the trail to learn about their significance.

Aislyn: Terry is optimistic about the impact this trail can have on Albuquerque.

Terry: There are many attractions that draw people outside the city, but I believe this can encourage them to rediscover Albuquerque’s eclectic charm in new and exciting ways.

Aislyn: As the days pass, I delve deeper into the city’s adventurous spirit, often in surprising ways. I hike through Petroglyph National Monument, where I meet a park ranger named Boyd, who shares insights about the landscape as we gaze out at the Sandia Mountains.

Boyd, park ranger: The uplift here dates back around 10 million years, while the lava flow from those volcanic fissures is about 100,000 years old.

Aislyn: So in geological terms, they're quite young.

Boyd: Exactly, it might sound like a long time to us, but in the grand scheme of geology, it’s merely a moment.

Aislyn: At Hotel Chaco, I indulge in a hot stone massage with stones sourced from the Rio Grande.

Joanna, massage therapist: Are we having a hot stone massage today?

Aislyn: Absolutely!

I even join a bike and taco tour with Routes, a bike shop located in Old Town. Routes not only rents bikes but also offers some unique bike tours, including excursions to Breaking Bad locations, urban art, and their latest addition that cleverly mixes tacos with history—such a fantastic combination. My guide is a woman named Heidi, sporting pink hair. She kicks off the tour by revealing that Charlevoix, the street we're on, once had a notorious reputation.

Heidi: This bike shop used to be a brothel, and right here was a gunslinger's gambling hall, so you can imagine—showgirls and the whole wild west vibe. And honestly, we still embody that spirit in various ways—people are just living life on their own terms.

Aislyn: As we ride towards our first taco destination, a coffee-restaurant-event space called Old Town Farm, Heidi explains how Albuquerque loves to enhance its aesthetic.

Heidi: In Albuquerque, when you pay your taxes, 1 percent goes to the arts. This means we commission artists, whether local or international, known for their murals or even tattoos. They get paid to beautify our city. Albuquerque aims to make things visually appealing in various forms—it's not just about plain concrete for bridges and such.

Aislyn: One of my favorite ways to experience the outdoors is through what I consume. Yes, tacos, but also a variety of other dishes.

Justin de la Rosa: New Mexican cuisine, in its own way, is the heart and soul food of the Southwest.

Aislyn: That’s Justin de la Rosa, a local food writer and director at Sawmill Market, the food hall I mentioned earlier. We’re currently at El Patio, renowned for its green chile enchiladas, which I obviously order. Justin is certainly a fan of the chiles that make Albuquerque so well-known.

Justin: There’s something incredibly comforting about my dad’s green chile stew or a dish generously smothered in this remarkable sauce that’s distinctive to our region.

Aislyn: However, he’s quick to emphasize that the city has so much more to offer.

Justin: We have an impressive Vietnamese and Asian food scene here. For sure! For example, Coda Bakery makes some of the best bánh mì sandwiches I've ever tasted.

Aislyn: There are also many local chefs dedicated to promoting and utilizing New Mexico's local ingredients. Restaurants like Campo at Los Poblanos—

Justin: Another great spot is Mesa Provisions, run by Steve Riley. They do an excellent job of honoring our agricultural heritage, focusing on farmers and local grains. Farm & Table is another place committed to sourcing ingredients from within the state.

Aislyn: Additionally, there’s a unique complex being developed for this purpose. Earlier, I mentioned the 19 pueblos of New Mexico. Now, I’m in front of the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, the gateway to those pueblos.

Upon entering, I find a bustling restaurant serving traditional pueblo cuisine, a gift shop featuring pueblo art, and a wall displaying photos of the 19 governors from the pueblo council. The expansive center occupies a city block owned by the pueblos. It includes a lovely spa called Rainwater Wellness that offers Native-made bath and body products, a Starbucks designed with Pueblo architecture, a Holiday Inn Express, a bar and grill, and Four Winds, a well-liked convenience store. Soon, there will also be a complex supporting Native farmers. It was initially intended to be an entrepreneurial hub, but then COVID hit, as explained by Bill Stimmel, the entrepreneurial director.

Bill Stimmel: During COVID, we observed a breakdown in the national food system, while local systems remained intact. This highlighted the importance of local food systems across the country, especially in New Mexico. We’re exploring how to invest in these systems to prevent a repeat of what happened in 2020.

Aislyn: They are currently developing a multi-phase project focused on food and agriculture to address the needs identified in recent years. The initial 7,500-square-foot facility will include a commercial kitchen, cold storage, and transport facilities to connect farms with the complex. Additionally, there will be a demonstration kitchen and a classroom aimed at inspiring future generations to pursue agricultural careers.

Bill: New Mexico is home to 25,000 farms, with approximately a quarter of those—about 5,000—being Native-owned. However, this number has been declining in recent years.

Aislyn: And this is just the first phase. The second and third phases aim to enhance cold storage options and potentially incorporate light packaging and manufacturing, all aimed at transforming the food system.

Bill: Food sovereignty is a crucial initiative we hope to support alongside many Native entrepreneurs. Additionally, food security is a significant concern throughout the state, and we aim to address those needs as well.

Aislyn: As we observe the ongoing construction, Bill informs me about their partnership with La Moñtanita, a local co-op that will be opening a flagship store right across from the center. Once operational, the co-op will showcase Native produce, both fresh and transformed products created right here at the center.

Later that evening, I decide to grab a beer at one of the city's trendiest breweries.

Missy Begay: Next year, we’ll be celebrating our eighth anniversary, and we've gained recognition as the first Native women-owned brewery in the nation.

Aislyn: That's Missy Begay, who was born in Albuquerque and raised in the Navajo Nation, also known as the Diné Nation. Her wife, Shyla Sheppard, hails from the Fort Berthold Reservation in North Dakota and belongs to the Three Affiliated Tribes (Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara Nations). Together, they founded Bow & Arrow Brewing in 2016. As you can hear from the lively atmosphere around us, we're at the brewery while Missy shares their vision for the business.

Missy: Our unique focus is on incorporating distinctive ingredients native to the Southwest, reflecting both the landscape and Indigenous culture, and gently infusing them into our beers to pleasantly surprise people.

Aislyn: It’s a bustling Thursday night, and I’m enjoying a tasty pilsner called Denim Tux, which features a unique ingredient.

Missy: The name pays homage to the quintessential Southwest wardrobe—denim is always in style. We incorporate local blue corn from Santa Ana Pueblo into the grain bill, which is a heritage corn native to the Southwest. It adds a delightful, light, earthy flavor. Using this traditional grain in a classic American beer has really worked in our favor.

Aislyn: Along with crafting exceptional beers using Indigenous ingredients sourced locally, Missy and Shyla are committed to enhancing the visibility of Native people through their Native Land initiative.

Missy: We created a beer named Native Land to honor the Tiwa people, whose land our brewery occupies. Other breweries took notice and asked how they could do something similar. We suggested a collaboration. So, we brew a base recipe, and breweries nationwide use the same label, donating proceeds from the sales to local Native American nonprofits.

Aislyn: Now in their third year, they’ve raised nearly $100,000 for nonprofits focused on ecological stewardship, access to ancestral lands, and the revitalization of traditional agriculture and foodways. They have also opened a second taproom in Farmington, New Mexico, located just three hours north, right at the edge of the Navajo Nation, where the borders of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona converge.

Missy: We selected that location because we wanted to encourage people to visit and support local tourism. There are some fantastic state and national parks nearby, like the Bisti Badlands, which inspired the name of our Bisti Hard Seltzer.

It’s also the gateway to Monument Valley and Bears Ears, with many exciting things happening in that area. Through our taproom, we’re aiming to reach more into the rural farming community, which has been an intriguing journey. We hope to take it to the next level by doing more to protect the land through our Native Land initiative.

Aislyn: The following morning, I return to Campos at Los Poblanos to meet Dylan Storment, the director of wine and spirits, to discuss New Mexico’s other remarkable beverage scene.

Dylan Storment: For those unfamiliar, we are the oldest wine-producing region in North America.

Aislyn: New Mexico is home to three AVAs, or American Viticultural Areas: the middle Rio Grande AVA along the Rio Grande River, as well as Mesilla Valley and Mimbres Valley. However, Dylan shares that historically, people haven’t come to New Mexico primarily for its wine.

Dylan: For a long time, there were misconceptions about New Mexico wine; visitors often preferred wines from other regions. We're collectively working to highlight our community partners and educate both travelers and locals, many of whom share this misunderstanding.

Aislyn: Dylan mentions that there’s a dedicated community of wine enthusiasts striving to showcase the appeal of New Mexican wines. He notes that Bordeaux varietals thrive here, along with Rhône varietals such as syrah and grenache. There’s also a vibrant scene around Los Poblanos in the North Valley.

Dylan: We’re surrounded by numerous vineyards, and it’s exciting to see this little area of Albuquerque evolve into such a vibrant wine hotspot over the past decade.

Aislyn: Dining at Campos, you’ll find local winemakers featured on the menu. During my visit, I enjoyed a delightful sauvignon blanc from Sheehan Winery in Albuquerque.

Dylan: One of my primary goals in curating the wine list was to dedicate an entire page to New Mexico wines, showcasing key producers. With many visitors coming to Los Poblanos, I wanted to ensure they didn’t just head to Santa Fe but also experienced what Albuquerque has to offer first.

Aislyn: There’s one iconic experience we haven’t covered yet, and it’s perhaps the best way to take in all of Albuquerque’s outdoor beauty in a single glance—preferably before sipping a glass of wine.

Murray Conrad: All right, everyone, there’s something I love to announce every time we take off: we are flying!

Aislyn: Indeed, we are soaring with our mustachioed pilot, Murray Conrad, who, alongside his wife, Julie, operates World Balloon company. As we ascend, I can feel the basket swaying gently in the breeze. It’s a flawless morning—not too windy, pleasantly cool, with a sunrise painting the sky in streaks of clouds. We reach an altitude of 5,600 feet, and Murray shares two reasons why Albuquerque is renowned for ballooning.

Murray: First, we have over 300 days of flyable weather each year. Second, we have unique wind patterns. There’s a phenomenon known as the Albuquerque Box. When it’s working, we can navigate all around town and return to the same field within an hour.

Aislyn: In Albuquerque, there are more than 300 balloon owners. Murray and his wife, Julie, also a pilot, had the privilege of learning from the best in the field.

Murray: For those unfamiliar with Albuquerque, Sid Cutter is regarded as the pioneer of ballooning here. Back in the early '70s, his mother was celebrating her birthday, and along with his brother, who owned Cutter Aviation at the Albuquerque International Airport, he wanted to do something memorable for her. So, they purchased a hot air balloon.

Aislyn: Murray shares that Sid simply figured it all out and fell in love with ballooning. It didn't take long for balloon enthusiasts around the globe to notice his passion. In 1973, they convened in Albuquerque for the inaugural World Balloon Championship to determine the top balloonist.

Murray: We’ve been operating since 1973 because it quickly became a town-wide question: “How can I experience a ride in one of those?” That’s how it all began. While we've had various owners over the years, here we are 50 years later, still flying and thriving.

Aislyn: That competition eventually evolved into the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, an annual celebration of hot air balloons. In 2024, it will run from October 5th to the 13th. A little tip: if you plan to attend, come during the week for a slightly calmer experience.

I asked Murray whether he still finds joy in every flight and what it is about ballooning that makes it so captivating.

Murray: Unlike flying in an airplane where you get a small window and soon find yourself above the clouds, in a hot air balloon, you’re gazing directly down upon the beauty of nature. From up here, you can see for miles. On a clear day, the mountains of Santa Fe and Taos, and even Grants, New Mexico would be visible—it's truly breathtaking.

Aislyn: Albuquerque is truly remarkable. It’s easy to get caught up in the allure of Santa Fe, but the next time you plan a trip to the Southwest, make sure to discover a little corner of Albuquerque’s outdoor wonders.

And that concludes our first episode of 'Unpacking.' I’ll provide links to all the businesses we discussed in the show notes, and I’m also compiling a list of the best dining and drinking spots in Albuquerque, including wine recommendations, which will be available on March 1st. I’ll link to it in the show notes once it’s published.

Ready for more discoveries? Check out Dinogo.com and don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and X. We’re @Dinogomedia. If you enjoyed today’s journey, I hope you’ll return for more captivating stories. Subscribing makes it easy! Please rate and review the podcast on your preferred platforms to help other travelers find us. If you have questions or topics you’d like us to cover, feel free to reach out at Dinogo.com/feedback or email us at unpacked@Dinogo.com.

This has been Unpacked, a Dinogo Media production. The podcast is produced by Aislyn Greene and Nikki Galteland, with music by Chris Colin. Remember: The world can be complex, and we’re here to help you unpack it.