Skiing in Antarctica — And How You Can Join the Adventure

A trip to Antarctica represents the achievement of one of life’s most elusive dreams: stepping foot on every continent. However, once I discovered the opportunity to ski there, visiting alone was no longer sufficient; skiing in Antarctica became my ultimate goal.

Even among experienced skiers, few are aware that skiing is possible in Antarctica. Contrary to the notion of an endless frozen wasteland, the continent features numerous mountain ranges, with an average elevation of 6,500 feet. It is the coldest, windiest, and driest place on the planet.

Skiing in Antarctica can be challenging and costly, but with proper preparation, it is achievable. There are no ski resorts, chairlifts, or even basic facilities. The experience is fraught with dangers like avalanches, crevasses, and unpredictable extreme weather. In case of emergencies, access to services is nonexistent.

Ski touring, or backcountry skiing, is the only viable method to ski here. You affix climbing skins to the base of your skis and trek uphill before switching your gear for downhill skiing. Additionally, you'll need a professional mountaineering guide to navigate the potential hazards and, of course, a means to reach the southernmost point of the Earth. 

The ski season on the White Continent typically runs from mid to late October through early November, when there's sufficient snow atop the ice sheets and the risk of crevasses on glaciers is reduced.

Upon learning that Aurora Expeditions offers 12- to 15-day journeys to Antarctica with ski touring options (packages starting at $10,500), I knew I had to join the adventure. 

Anyone looking to take on this journey should be in good physical condition and possess several years of consistent skiing experience, both within and outside of ski resorts in backcountry areas.

You don’t need to be a seasoned expert to participate, but you'll likely find it more enjoyable if you're confident in your skills. Besides your determination to fulfill this aspiration, your trip will require an extensive array of gear, including ski crampons, ice axes, and avalanche transceivers — plus the knowledge to use everything effectively. 

Once I booked the trip, the ski guide from Aurora Expeditions briefed us on what to anticipate. Tarn Pilkington, our IFMGA-certified (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations) guide with experience in Antarctic skiing since the '90s, assisted us in planning the necessary gear and advised us to prepare for daily climbs of 3,000 feet during our tours. 

My greatest concern was wasting a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity due to a lack of strength, so I dedicated myself to skiing every possible day leading up to the trip. By early October, I had accumulated over 80 ski days and 35 high-altitude hikes. I felt anxious but prepared.  

In late October, after several days of travel, we boarded the Sylvia Earle in Ushuaia, Argentina, and traversed 625 miles across 30-foot swells in the Drake Passage until we reached the Antarctic Peninsula. By the time we arrived at the South Shetland Islands, we were over 9,000 miles from home.  

On our first opportunity to ski, we were fortunate to land at Deception Island. Our group of eight traveled from the ship to shore via a zodiac, where we were greeted by a solitary gentoo penguin. As it rejoined its companions further down the beach, we prepared our gear. Clicking into my bindings and gearing up to ski a volcano in Antarctica with a curious audience of penguins felt surreal. The ascent was a manageable 1,157 feet, rewarding us with panoramic views of the island and Whalers Bay. While no one visits Antarctica for the snow quality, I appreciated the surprisingly smooth turns. 

The following day, high winds forced us to abandon our plans for skiing on Nansen Island and instead head to Enterprise Island. However, before reaching our destination, we had to switch to downhill mode as the weather rapidly changed from partly cloudy to whiteout conditions. Still, it counted as a ski day. We attempted a second tour at Selvik Cove, but that too was not feasible. This unexpected gap in our schedule allowed us to observe a large gentoo penguin colony on nearby Cuverville Island, providing a magical experience of its own.   

Our third skiing day took us to the most stunning place I’ve ever seen. The heavy snowfall and wind from previous days gave way to a perfect day filled with powder and abundant sunshine on Hovgaard Island. Surrounded by the Penola Strait and the Southern Ocean, the island offered breathtaking views from its snowy slopes. As we ascended 1,500 feet to the transition point at the summit, we couldn’t resist pausing to take photos and mentally catalog the beauty. On one side, we watched icebergs, both large and small, drift quietly across the vast seas, while on the other, we gazed at the imposing, icy black peaks that mark the continent's edge.

Skiing down filled me with pure joy. I pondered how unique this viewpoint was; the only way to witness this particular panorama is through hiking or ski touring. Throughout all of human history, how many individuals have had the chance to see this sight? How many have carved its lines? The day we experienced was a rare privilege, and we were fully aware of it. We opted for a second run to maximize our turns. My photos and videos fail to capture its beauty, but they serve as a reminder that it was indeed real.

On our fourth day of skiing, we reached the pyramidal peaks of Doumer Island, with the dark and dramatic Mount Luigi and the Seven Sisters peaks on Wiencke Island looming across the Gerlache Strait. We trekked seven miles, marveled at a snow cornice the size of Chicago's Bean, and skied down to the vibrant blue ice shelves that frame the island, plunging deep into the ocean's depths.    

Although our final ski day was cut short due to wind and an approaching storm, I still felt grateful. Out of six potential skiing days in Antarctica, only two of our plans were disrupted. Considering how many factors need to align for each day to happen, we were incredibly fortunate. 

Aurora Expeditions is offering two voyages with ski touring options this fall. The Antarctic Peninsula in Depth departs from Ushuaia, Argentina, on November 6, 2024, and the Spirit of Antarctica leaves Ushuaia, Argentina, on October 27, 2024.