The renowned Singaporean eatery, Hawker Chan, has lost its Michelin star.

Once famous for offering the cheapest Michelin-starred meal in the world, this Singaporean hawker stall has now been stripped of its Michelin designation.

When the Michelin Guide unveiled its new Singapore edition on September 1, Hawker Chan – formerly Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodles – was missing from the list.

Following his Michelin win, Meng's career skyrocketed, expanding his brand from a modest stall in Chinatown to a growing restaurant chain with branches in Thailand, the Philippines, and beyond.

He rebranded the restaurant to Hawker Chan and started adding a wider variety of dishes to the menu.

When asked for a comment on losing the Michelin star, a representative for Hawker Chan emailed Dinogo Travel, stating: 'Chef Chan Hon Meng has been serving his signature soya sauce chicken rice since 2009, using his secret recipe and method, which have remained unchanged since the beginning. He has always believed that food should be freshly prepared each day and that cooking should never be done in a central kitchen.'

'We are eager to understand why the Michelin Guide has excluded us this year. However, we respect that everyone has different tastes. Our focus will remain on providing delicious and affordable meals, as that is our core mission and vision.'

'We are deeply grateful to all our loyal Hawker Chan customers who have supported us for the past 12 years, and we will work hard to earn back the Michelin star next year.'

'Michelin has stuck firmly to its decision,'

While many have praised the Malaysia-born chef for leveraging his success, some believe the quality of the food declined after the expansion to new locations.

Singaporean food expert KF Seetoh told Dinogo, 'I believe Michelin made the right decision by sticking to their principles and upholding the integrity of the stars.'

Seetoh, who was a close friend of the late Anthony Bourdain, took the renowned chef on tours of various hawker centers in Singapore. Bourdain’s endorsement of these humble local stalls, most of which focus on a single dish, helped introduce global audiences to the diverse and exceptional food offerings in Singapore, catering to all budgets.

The pair had been collaborating on a hawker center project in New York City when Bourdain tragically passed away in 2018.

For Seetoh, the future of Singapore’s food scene is about more than just one chef or one restaurant.

'On a larger scale, and with all due respect, Michelin should stay focused on its core strength of supporting restaurants, as they are the ones who need the most help right now.'

Like most nations, Singapore's tourism sector has been severely impacted by the coronavirus pandemic. With borders closed and local lockdowns in place, the food and beverage industry has been particularly affected.

Thanks to its high vaccination rate, Singapore has begun to cautiously reopen, with the government developing a plan to coexist safely with Covid-19.

Michelin in the spotlight

Michelin, owned by the tire company of the same name, is one of the most secretive publications worldwide, with the identities of its editors and contributors kept under tight wraps.

The company originally published travel guides aimed at motorists in Europe, evolving from tires to automobiles, and eventually tourism. Some restaurants were given special mentions in these early guides.

Over time, the iconic star system emerged, with the highest accolade being three stars.

The Michelin brand became so influential in the fine dining world that some chefs became obsessed with earning its prestigious awards.

In 2019, French chef Marc Veyrat sued Michelin after his renowned restaurant, La Maison des Bois, was downgraded from three stars to two. Veyrat, the first chef to ever take Michelin to court, demanded more transparency regarding the company's criteria and the identities of the individuals behind the guides and their qualifications.

In the end, Veyrat lost his lawsuit, but he is not the only chef to recently voice criticism against the Michelin Guide.

Korean chef Eo Yun-gwon, whose restaurant Ristorante Eo earned a Michelin star in the 2019 Seoul guide, expressed his desire to not be included in the prestigious book at all.

'I have filed a criminal complaint against Michelin for listing restaurants against their will and without clear criteria,' Eo wrote in a Facebook post.

'Including my restaurant, Eo, in this corrupt guide is an insult to my team and our supporters. They had no contact number, and I could only reach them by email. Despite my clear refusal to be listed, they included my restaurant again this year.'

Over time, Michelin has faced criticism for being overly focused on Europe and North America, while neglecting other regions, and for favoring high-end establishments over more accessible options.

In response to the growing criticism, Michelin introduced a new category in 1997 called the Bib Gourmand. This designation highlights a 'simpler style of cooking' that is 'something you could even try to replicate at home,' according to the company.

Michelin launched its first guide to Tokyo in 2007 and followed up with its inaugural guide to Hong Kong and Macao two years later.

Article updated with comments from a representative of Hawker Chan.