This secluded, 112-acre island is one of Florida's hidden gems — and it can only be reached by boat.
Nestled off the coast of Fort Myers, this 100-acre island feels as though it’s been frozen in time. It embodies a "Swiss Family Robinson"-like escape that showcases a bygone era of Florida, drawing in famous writers, heiresses, and even Presidents Carter and Kennedy.
The 112-acre island in Pine Island Sound was originally settled by the Calusa tribe and Cuban fishermen. It first appeared on maps as Palmetto Key in 1875.
Photo: Driendl Group/Getty ImagesThe first homesteader, Charles Gill, settled on Cabbage Key in 1896 and eventually obtained ownership. Author and war correspondent Mary Roberts Rinehart vacationed on nearby Useppa Island during the 1920s, and in 1936, her son Alan and his wife Gratia, an heiress of Corning Glass, bought the property for their winter home. After their divorce two years later, Gratia kept the estate, which was later used by the U.S. Department of Fisheries for tarpon research.
In 1944, Larry and Jan Stults bought the island and converted it into an inn, a function it still serves today. The residence evolved into a restaurant and a six-room lodging, while the caretakers’ cottages were transformed into eight rental cabins, some featuring private docks and whimsical names like “The Cabbage Patch” and “The Dollhouse,” the latter serving as a honeymoon suite adorned with shells collected by visitors.
The accommodations are quaint yet delightful. While there are no televisions, they’re hardly missed in this serene setting. In fact, the island only gained electricity in 1981, and in the early days, children traveled by boat to attend school.
Photo: Len Kaufman/Courtesy of The Lee County Visitor & Convention BureauDue to its relative seclusion, Cabbage Key is perfect for unplugging and engaging in activities such as hiking the island trails, embarking on a fishing charter, climbing the water tower for panoramic views, and observing birds like ospreys. Kayaks are available for rent, and you may even encounter the island's resident gopher tortoises. Additionally, traffic is non-existent since cars are absent on the island.
A notable landmark is the Dollar Bill Bar, which opened in 1971 under the stewardship of Bob and Jo Ann Beck. Like many establishments of its kind, it has become a place for travelers to leave their mark. Approximately $20,000 worth of the “fallen bills” are donated to charity each year, and during the pandemic when visitors were scarce, the bar contributed 6,000 notes to the Southwest Florida Emergency Relief Fund.
Image courtesy of the Lee County Visitor & Convention BureauOver the years, this former library turned bar has welcomed notable figures such as Katharine Hepburn, Ted Koppel, Ed McMahon, Rob Lowe, Julia Roberts, Ernest Hemingway, and the late Jimmy Buffett, who is said to have penned his famous song “Cheeseburger in Paradise” inspired by a dish at Cabbage Key. You might even spot his signed dollar bill among the many others on display.
Photo: MacKenzie, @grilledcheesesocial/Courtesy of the Lee County Visitor & Convention BureauPopular menu items include stone crab claws, frozen Key lime pie, and the signature Cabbage Creeper rum cocktail. The restaurant operates daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and it’s common to see familiar faces among the patrons throughout the week.
Like much of southwest Florida, Cabbage Key experienced some damage from Hurricane Ian in September 2022. However, it reopened in less than six months, regaining its former charm and once again welcoming guests for day visits or longer stays.
Access to the island is still exclusively by boat, which can be arranged through a water taxi or a charter from Pineland, Captiva Island, or Punta Gorda. Day tours also transport visitors to nearby islands like Cayo Costa for shelling and a taste of the renowned Cabbage Key burger. Alternatively, you can navigate there on your own boat, enjoying the scenic route past historic fishing shacks along the way.
The most straightforward route is to fly into Southwest Florida International Airport, rent a car, and drive to Captiva, which takes about an hour. Once you arrive on Cabbage Key, you'll be free from mainland worries.
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