Where Rustic California Glamour Meets the Wild West: A Review of The Inn at Mattei's Tavern, Auberge Resorts Collection

After a three-hour drive from Los Angeles, I half expected to encounter horses as we navigated the crunchy gravel road to a farmhouse adorned with rocking chairs on the porch. Upon entering, however, we were greeted by a stylish lobby with timber floors, a cozy living room, and a general store showcasing plush throws, burlap curtains, and a deerskin rug. It became apparent that any animals, horses included, were kept far from sight, and the gentleman in the white cowboy hat was there to assist with luggage, not livestock.

Although it opened its doors as The Inn at Mattei's Tavern, Auberge Resorts Collection in 2023, this property boasts a rich history. Spanning 6 1/2 acres in the picturesque town of Los Olivos, it has served as a tranquil haven for weary travelers since the 1880s, originally functioning as a tavern and inn for those arriving at the nearby railroad station before boarding stagecoaches. The water tower still stands as a reminder of where hardworking horses quenched their thirst. This historical essence remains, even as the original buildings have been beautifully modernized to offer all the luxurious amenities one could desire.

Experience what it’s like to stay at The Inn at Mattei's Tavern, a serene oasis in Los Olivos.

What exactly is The Inn at Mattei's Tavern?

The Inn at Mattei's Tavern, Auberge Resorts Collection originally opened as Central Hotel, a resting place for stagecoach travelers seeking food and lodging. Established in 1886 by the Swiss American couple Lucie and Felix Mattei, it features the now-iconic white water tower. While the hotel ceased operations for a period, the historic tavern has experienced various transformations over the years (I recall dining at that antique watering hole over a decade ago) and continues to be the authentic heart of the property, quietly nestled just off the highway, which once served as the railroad.

Currently, the upscale reimagined hotel consists of newly constructed two-story white clapboard guesthouses housing rooms and suites in various configurations, along with several new cottages and four original bungalows. The bungalows, dating back to 1886, have been meticulously restored, preserving their wooden floors and clawfoot tubs. This same meticulous attention to detail is evident in the public spaces, which include the original restaurant and bar, a café, a swimming pool with a bar, and an outdoor dining area. All of this is surrounded by mature palm trees and resilient native plants.

Like all Auberge Resorts Collection properties I've visited, this one is thoughtfully curated and exudes a charming boutique feel, even with its 67 accommodations. The entire venue is delightfully smoke-free, and pets are permitted in select studio rooms. Families are welcomed warmly, though there isn't a dedicated kids' club, creating a romantic atmosphere that makes it an ideal spot for honeymoons, anniversaries, engagements, and babymoons. As a former Angeleno, it appeared that many guests hailed from major California cities, seeking a tranquil and sunny retreat.

How to reserve a stay at The Inn at Mattei's Tavern

To book any of the 67 accommodations at this hotel, the most effective method is to visit the property's website directly. This way, you can monitor seasonal rates and special deals (you might also want to explore Auberge Resorts Collection's website for similar offers). As of the time this review was published, the starting nightly rate at The Inn at Mattei's Tavern is approximately $845.

Although Auberge Resorts Collection does not offer its own hotel loyalty program, this property is included in American Express' Fine Hotels + Resorts. If you possess either The Platinum Card® from American Express or The Business Platinum Card® from American Express, you can book through the FHR platform and enjoy benefits like possible upgrades, a $100 credit to use during your stay, complimentary breakfast for two each day, and guaranteed late checkout.

Situated just a block away from the main street of Los Olivos, the hotel is highly walkable.

If your goal is to indulge in wining, dining, shopping, and experiencing the charm of a small Western village established in 1861, you won't find a better location than this hotel, which sits in the heart of where the 2004 film "Sideways" was shot.

The Inn at Mattei's Tavern is just a short walk away from amazing restaurants, cafes, dessert shops, boutiques, and most importantly, tasting rooms. Most guests choose to drive, and the hotel offers eight electric vehicle chargers along with complimentary valet and self-parking. Additionally, it's a quick drive to pick-your-own berry farms, farm stands, and olive and lavender farms, as well as over 150 wineries, including Lincourt Vineyards, Beckmen Vineyards, and Firestone Vineyard.

Located a scenic 40-minute drive southeast, Santa Barbara offers even more attractions, sights, and culinary delights.

The rooms and cottages seamlessly blend cowboy culture with timeless elegance.

In an area rich with cowboy heritage and sprawling vineyards, a hotel could easily slip into kitsch. However, The Inn at Mattei's Tavern successfully steers clear of cliches with its architecture and interior design, fostering an authentic atmosphere that embodies elegance.

We were guided along a dirt path adorned with suitable dry-climate shrubs and plants, flanked by white clapboard guesthouses, to our ground-floor accommodation, which featured a covered outdoor mudroom in front — ideal for storing our baby's stroller.

As I entered the high-ceilinged room, my first impression was that it was both crisp and cozy, adorned with woven textiles, four-poster beds, small landscape paintings, wainscoting, exposed beams, and woolen rugs. Every room includes a space to enjoy the fresh air, whether it’s a terrace, patio, or porch swing, along with a fire feature like a fire pit or fireplace, the mantels of which are crafted from rustic railroad ties originally from the nearby train tracks.

Our room, the Garden Terrace Two Queen Studio, included a delightful private outdoor area that provided endless entertainment for our 3-year-old daughter, who enjoyed playing with the pebbles set between the pavers. For me, the standout feature was the fire pit, which was incredibly easy to ignite with a timer knob. One evening, after messaging Guest Services for s'mores supplies, I crafted the best s'more I've ever had. Upon arrival, I discovered the hotel offers complimentary s'mores kits, and trust me, you won't want to miss this treat. About 25 minutes later, a friendly staff member delivered everything I needed — a long stick, classic Hershey's chocolate, two marshmallows, and crispy homemade graham cookies. My only regret? Not asking for more. (For guests without a private fire pit, there are communal options throughout the property.)

As I've come to expect from Auberge properties, there were many thoughtful amenities, including an Audio Pro speaker, wireless phone charger, cozy bathrobes, a charming tote bag, and a Pendleton wool blanket with a leather strap for our stay. The blanket felt like an invitation to snuggle up outside on an Adirondack chair as the temperature dropped. The minibar offered a tempting selection of savory and sweet snacks and beverages, alongside coffee table books, intriguing glassware, a Nespresso machine, and an electric kettle.

The beautifully tiled bathroom featured a distinctive long farmhouse sink and delightful custom toiletries that smelled amazing.

The beds were truly exceptional, embodying the essence of dreaminess. Once I lay down, I felt completely enveloped in the silky, cozy layers of bedding and hardly moved at all. The turndown treats added an extra touch of sweetness — the first night featured melt-in-your-mouth bourbon caramels from Jessica Foster Confections, a delightful nod to the tradition of bourbon after a long day of travel. The following night brought fragrant sachets of calming lavender to tuck under our pillows.

Despite the room's beauty, we encountered a few minor issues with the coffee maker and the air conditioning. However, when I called about the AC, a technician arrived within five minutes and fixed it right away. The little keycard scanner for our leather-fringed key fobs fell off — perhaps even melted off during a heat wave. Although it wasn't repaired during our stay, the lock worked perfectly. Strangely, housekeeping left our used wine glasses and coffee cups upside down on the bathroom vanity, seemingly rinsed but not washed, and did not replace them.

The Tavern truly shines as the centerpiece of this experience.

All dining venues proudly feature ingredients from the rich offerings of the Central Coast's farmers, fishers, and ranchers, so I felt assured we would enjoy excellent meals. However, even with "tavern" in the hotel's name, I didn't anticipate experiencing so many exceptional dishes in a single meal. My family — including my husband, toddler, and 6-month-old baby — managed to secure an early-bird special reservation at The Tavern, where we found ourselves among two other young families. We opted to sit next to the expansive open kitchen since the outdoor patio, adorned with a vine-wrapped trellis, was too warm for comfort.

A glance around The Tavern's bar and lounge, filled with antiques and artifacts, as well as a corridor showcasing vintage photography, reveals that this restaurant has a rich history and charm, with a notable equestrian connection. The inviting atmosphere was enhanced by the friendly staff and a welcoming gentleman who served us a delightful splash of Bordiga Vermouth di Torino Bianco over ice, highlighting its composition of more than 30 botanicals.

The wine selection prominently features California vintages and offers many options by the glass. However, we decided to sample some of the unique cocktails on the menu, particularly the Greenshine, which combines mezcal, green chartreuse, acidified celery, and agave ($18), and the Strange Ol' Gus, named after Felix Mattei's former assistant, Gus Berg, made with Three Chord bourbon, pinot noir, and house bitters ($22).

Dinner was a beautifully plated array of unforgettable flavors, including scallops paired with roasted maitake mushrooms, yuzu kosho, and pickled mushrooms ($55), which my husband declared the best he’d ever tasted; incredible hickory-smoked Okinawan sweet potatoes served with black garlic vinaigrette, yuzu aioli, and crispy shallots ($14); and my succulent sweet-and-sour pork chop accompanied by garlic rice, pineapple, and sweet peppers ($54). The generous portions felt fitting for the venue's rich history. This ranch-inspired cuisine with a creative flair was crafted by the opening Filipino chef, Rhoda Magbitang; however, a new chef, Auberge alum Joe Humphrey, who previously worked at Hotel Jerome, had just begun but had yet to unveil his new menu.

Dessert was an absolute triumph: a soufflé paired with vanilla crème anglaise and a generous helping of homemade butterscotch sauce poured right into the center. It was utterly divine—rich, sweet, and delicious. Our server had even suggested we order it in advance during our meal.

During breakfast on the patio, we were attended by a very friendly server, whom I cleverly relied on to help me choose between the enticing sourdough French toast ($23) and the blue corn hotcakes ($23).

She mentioned that the former uses Bob's Well bread—much adored by fans—while the latter evokes memories of Jiffy, a Southern staple from my Louisiana roots. As a Southerner, I chose those and experienced what might be the best pancakes of my life, perfectly textured, especially when paired with toasted granola, blueberries, and a sweet maple-infused crème fraîche. My husband's huevos rancheros ($24) were also impressively arranged.

The other dining outlets

Felix Feed & Coffee presents a unique atmosphere unlike any coffee shop I've visited, with plush walls, antique art, and original stained glass that invite in the bright California sunlight through a dining area known as the Wicker Room. It exudes sophistication without pretension, clearly a local favorite; I overheard a couple with a dog greeting the barista by name, reminding her that she brews their favorite coffee. My personal highlights were the delicious fresh-squeezed orange juice ($8) and the made-from-scratch spinach feta croissants ($7) delivered to our room, although we could have enjoyed a range of toasts—mushroom ($24), ricotta with strawberry jam ($19), house-smoked salmon ($19)—or a breakfast sandwich on a buttermilk biscuit ($18).

Gin's Tap Bar, featuring entirely outdoor seating, pays tribute to the inn's former head chef, Gin Lung Gin, who started in 1910. It celebrates his Chinese roots with a selection of casual Asian-inspired small plates, including pork belly bao buns ($21), soy-braised eggplant ($14), and Sake Bloom cocktails infused with elderflower and absinthe ($18).

At one end of the stunning aquamarine pool lies The Shed, where sunbathers can enjoy frozen La Paloma cocktails ($18), aloe margaritas ($18), and refreshing non-alcoholic slushy Coco Coladas ($14). The menu features Mediterranean mezze, light bites like fattoush ($19), and heartier options such as a lamb burger topped with tzatziki and roasted onion jam ($28).

The pool serves as the hub of activity

One of my main frustrations with hotel pools is the lack of lounge chairs, which often makes finding a spot stressful. Fortunately, this expansive, bright azure pool offered ample seating with two rows of sunbeds on either side, along with plush cabanas that could be drawn for added privacy. I also appreciate when sunscreen is provided, and there were two types of Project Reef SPF available on the towel cart.

The pool operates from dawn until dusk, though I learned that guests can actually enjoy the space late into the evening thanks to a hot tub and a long fire pit (perfect for making s'mores), making a nighttime swim quite enticing. I noticed several couples seemingly on their babymoon, and while there were quite a few children and infants around, the atmosphere remained calm and serene, never loud or overwhelming.

The fitness center is so inviting that it might inspire you to get your workout in.

If you find a moment between indulging in culinary delights and sampling wines, the well-appointed gym with a pool view from the treadmills is an excellent spot to alleviate any guilt. Daily complimentary movement classes range from various yoga flows to strength training. For those seeking outdoor activities, e-bikes are available for borrowing, along with horseback trail rides and the immersive multiday Cowboy Camp experience.

The Lavender Barn spa

Although it wasn't open during my late summer 2024 visit, the Lavender Barn spa features six treatment rooms and a cold plunge pool. It provides an extensive menu of body and facial treatments, including an 80-minute Los Olivos Scrub ($390.40, gratuity included), Reiki ($274.50), and an Oak Essentials Signature Soothing Facial ($244 for 50 minutes) utilizing botanical products by designer Jenni Kayne, sourced from the Santa Ynez Valley.

Considerations for why The Inn at Mattei's Tavern might not be suitable for you

The Inn at Mattei's Tavern comes with a high nightly rate, making it a pricey getaway. This may not be feasible for those on a limited budget seeking a wine country retreat. Additionally, couples looking for a romantic escape might find the presence of many young children and babies (including mine) off-putting. For a more tranquil dining experience, it's advisable to avoid The Tavern before 6:30 p.m., as that time tends to be busy with families dining before their kids become restless.

While much of the staff was friendly, they were quite young, and the atmosphere felt less formal compared to other Auberge locations. For example, there didn't seem to be a host at the entrance of The Tavern, and the front desk employee who escorted us to our room was unaware of some basic facts about the property, including its year of establishment.

Accessibility

While navigating with a stroller, I observed that the crushed-stone paths and ramps were wide enough for wheelchair access, although the front porch of the lobby farmhouse might pose a challenge due to the large rocking chairs.

Only ground-floor accommodations are accessible since the small two-story guest buildings lack elevators, and there are several rooms compliant with the Americans with Disabilities Act available.

Both the pool and hot tub are equipped with lifts, and each locker room for the pool and gym features an accessible toilet stall for both women and men. The bar and Tavern provide an accessible entrance, and Braille signage is present throughout the premises.

Alternatives to The Inn at Mattei's Tavern

This area lacks many points hotels, being better known for boutique getaways like the 20-room Genevieve in Santa Ynez and the Fess Parker Wine Country Inn, which offers 19 guest rooms and suites in Los Olivos. The Skyview Los Alamos, a cozy revamped motel about 11 miles away, boasts a trendy atmosphere, while Alisal Ranch, a historic all-inclusive dude ranch spanning over 10,000 acres near Solvang, has been welcoming guests since 1946 and is perfect for horse riding enthusiasts.

Checking out

After enjoying restful nights and delightful meals, I wouldn't hesitate to return to The Inn at Mattei's Tavern — repeatedly. The hotel offered a comprehensive experience, featuring all the thoughtful details I expected for the price but often find lacking elsewhere. Having relocated from Los Angeles a couple of years back, I occasionally felt out of place among the other guests, yet everyone was warm and approachable, especially the staff in their effortlessly stylish Cali uniforms that I wouldn't mind wearing myself.

From the original windows in The Tavern to the charming yarn-wrapped "Do Not Disturb" horseshoes, the property exuded authenticity without any forced effort. It struck the perfect balance between rustic charm and modern touches. I thoroughly enjoyed the vibrant blue sky transitioning to a canvas of twinkling stars, and I'm still savoring the memory of my s'more enjoyed alongside a generous glass of local pinot noir.

As a parent traveling with young children, I was grateful that they felt warmly welcomed too. Along with a delightful Mattei's Tavern coloring book and pencils awaiting us in the room, staff members frequently engaged our kids by name, fostering a familial atmosphere. The ambiance masterfully balances sophistication with a down-to-earth vibe, making it an ideal retreat for couples, particularly those in search of a truly unique getaway in an exceptional hotel.