Where to Escape the Crowds in Paris This Summer

Summer in Paris has a unique charm. As the dull winter months fade, the city comes alive with an infectious party atmosphere, with the sun setting around 10 p.m. Parisians flock to café terraces, street musicians entertain, and beach bars pop up along the Seine. To enhance the vibrant ambiance, a multitude of cultural events—many free—illuminate the City of Light. With exciting new restaurants, artistic venues, and hotels opening, it’s the perfect season for exploration. If you're planning a visit, you're not alone—a surge in post-pandemic travel has brought many tourists to the capital. To escape the crowds, venture into lesser-known neighborhoods and discover spots that most travelers haven’t yet uncovered. From a floating art gallery to a trendy hotel, here’s your guide to enjoying Paris this summer without the throngs.

Seine-side Summer Nights

The banks of the Seine transform into a vibrant playground for Parisians during the summer. Moored péniches (river barges) and pop-up bars evoke the spirit of guinguettes, the riverside dance halls that have attracted revelers since the 19th century. Some péniches serve as floating concert venues (like El Alamein and Le Petit Bain), while others operate as delightful restaurants (such as Rosa Bonheur sur Seine, Les Maquereaux, and La Démesure sur Seine).

A beloved event among locals, Paris Plages brings the beach experience to city dwellers who can’t escape the urban hustle. Although sand is no longer imported, the city has enhanced the offerings: enjoy pétanque games, fitness classes led by instructors, and deck chairs along the Rives de Seine park right beneath the Hôtel de Ville on the Right Bank. Plus, experience a zip line and outdoor swimming pools at the Bassin de la Villette in the 19th arrondissement.

Situated beneath the Gare d’Austerlitz in the 13th arrondissement, the trendy floating hotel Off Paris Seine features a lively seasonal terrace near the Cité de la Mode et du Design. This iconic green landmark is also home to the open-air club Wanderlust. To celebrate its 10th anniversary, Action Bronson has taken over the kitchen until September 17.

Locals frequent the quays near Quai de la Gare—also in the 13th—where you’ll find a variety of hangouts like La Paillote, which overlooks the Josephine Baker swimming pool. Recently opened is Quai de la Photo, a floating art center complete with a restaurant and marina; electric boats offer cruises from this location. Dedicated to contemporary photography, the venue’s inaugural exhibition is Life’s a Beach by renowned British photographer Martin Parr.

Alternative Culture Calendar

This summer, Paris boasts an impressive lineup of blockbuster exhibitions. Highlights include the Basquiat x Warhol: Painting Four Hands show at the Fondation Louis Vuitton (running until August 28), the Ramses the Great & the Gold of the Pharaohs exhibit at Grande Halle de la Villette (open through September 6), and Paris, Capital of Gastronomy, from the Middle Ages to Today at the Conciergerie (until July 16), which delves into French culinary heritage. The Musée du Louvre has also launched a new open-air festival titled “Les Étés du Louvre” (ongoing until July 20), featuring concerts under the pyramid, theater performances in the Grande Galerie, and dance events in the Tour Lefuel, a hidden architectural gem within the museum.

In addition to the major exhibits, there are numerous lesser-known displays and new (or newly renovated) museums to explore this summer. In preparation for the 2024 Summer Olympics, where the Seine will host the opening ceremony, the Galerie Roger-Viollet is showcasing stunning photographs of the river from 1860 to 1960 in Paris Rive droite / Rive gauche, les bords de Seine entre labeur et loisirs (Paris Right Bank / Left Bank, the banks of the Seine between work and leisure), available until September 30.

The Petit Palais, located just off the Champs-Élysées, is featuring a remarkable exhibit until August 27 in honor of Sarah Bernhardt’s centennial. Long before Marilyn Monroe and Madonna, the “Divine Sarah” captivated audiences as one of the first global superstars. Known for her taste for the theatrical and macabre (she famously slept in a coffin), she was a pioneer of our modern celebrity culture. The Petit Palais, adorned with exquisite mosaics and frescoes, is worth the visit alone. Admission to the permanent art collection is free, and you’ll also gain access to the hidden courtyard garden, where you can enjoy lunch beneath the lush palms while soaking in the grandeur.

Tucked away from the touristy heart of Paris, a hidden gem reopened in April on avenue Foch in the 16th arrondissement. Managed by the Guimet Museum of Asian Arts, the Musée d’Ennery serves as a 19th-century time capsule showcasing the Parisian bourgeoisie’s fascination with the Far East. Built by actress Clemence d’Ennery, this grand hôtel particulier (mansion) was designed to display her collection of Japanese and Chinese art, attracting visitors like Jules Verne and the Goncourt brothers. The museum remains unchanged, featuring opulent gilded rooms adorned with jade animals, ivory artworks, demon masks, and approximately 2,500 netsuke miniature carvings—all beautifully displayed in exquisite wood cabinets inlaid with mother of pearl, crafted by the finest marquetry artisans. Currently, it offers free guided visits in French by appointment on weekends; while most slots are booked, you can check availability on the Guimet Museum’s website.

In the nearby suburb of Meudon, Hangar Y has emerged as a new arts venue housed within a former airship hangar. Although the hangar itself is only accessible on weekends, the surrounding park and pond can be visited daily. Le Perchoir, known for its trendy rooftop bars across Paris, has opened a waterside brasserie here that boasts a guinguette ambiance. To reach it, take the RER C suburban train near the Eiffel Tower.

After a three-year renovation, the Musée national de l’histoire de l’immigration has recently unveiled revamped galleries that highlight the significance of immigration in French history. Located in the stunning art deco Palais de la Porte Dorée in the 12th arrondissement, originally built for the Paris Colonial Exposition of 1931, the museum also features a small aquarium on the lower level that captivates young visitors.

A wave of new hotels has taken over Paris this season

In a bustling market, new hotels are invigorating the Parisian hotel scene. Notably, La Fantaisie has made a splash on Rue Cadet since its July 1 debut. This vibrant corner of the 9th arrondissement, once a market garden, remains largely undiscovered by tourists. Nestled among gourmet food shops and local cafés, the 73-room boutique hotel features a stunning garden and a landscaped rooftop. Designed by London- and New York–based Martin Brudnizki, the hotel boasts lively decor with foliage on embroidered wallpaper, plant mosaics in the Holidermie spa, and custom ceramics throughout the rooms. (Rooms 608 and 609 include outdoor terraces.) The greenery continues with an olive tree centerpiece in the Golden Poppy restaurant, helmed by Michelin-starred French chef Dominique Crenn from her acclaimed San Francisco restaurant.

Located on a tranquil street near the Champs Elysées, the Château des Fleurs opened in May, adding to the portfolio of the Bertrand family (known for Relais Christine and Saint James). Behind a refined Haussmannian facade, this 37-room hotel immerses guests in the Belle Epoque era, featuring art nouveau design elements like tasseled lamps, red-tiled bathrooms, and door handles shaped like arms. Junior suite No. 406 offers a bright escape with flowers adorning the French windows. The Oma restaurant serves mandu (dumplings), mulhoe (spicy raw fish soup), and other Korean delights.

For years, the Left Bank Holiday Inn’s rooftop was a coveted spot for insiders—offering stunning views over the zinc rooftops of St. Germain. Now, this unassuming hotel has transformed into the 109-room Hôtel Dame des Arts. The stylish redesign, led by Parisian designer Raphaël Navot, who won the Maison&Objet “Designer of the Year Award” in 2023, features a ground floor restaurant that extends onto a leafy courtyard terrace, creating a serene escape in a bustling area.

Exciting new dining and drinking venues in Paris

La Tour d’Argent has reopened following a comprehensive renovation. Renowned for its signature pressed duck, this historic establishment on the Seine inspired the animated film Ratatouille. (The adjacent rôtisserie, boulangerie, and grocery remained operational throughout the 14-month renovation.)

For an extravagant lunch, book a table at Thierry Marx’s latest culinary masterpiece on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Onor exemplifies Marx’s dedication to social responsibility, employing 20 percent of its staff from his “Cuisine mode d’emploi(s)” training programs aimed at helping the disadvantaged and unemployed secure jobs. When you arrive, prepare to be impressed—first by the suspended origami-like sculpture, then by the innovative dishes crafted in the lower-level laboratory.

Rising chef Satoshi Amitsu, a former Michelin three-star apprentice at Georges Blanc, is captivating diners with his Japanese-inspired French cuisine at Baillotte in St. Germain. Utilizing ingredients from premier suppliers (meat from boucherie Huguenot, line-caught fish from Pavillon France, cheese from Maison Barthélémy), Amitsu’s bistronomic creations showcase the region's bounty; his dish “variation des légumes de printemps” is a true garden on a plate.

To unveil its next-level experiential bar on Boulevard Saint-Germain, Moët Hennessy enlisted Franck Audoux, a well-respected entrepreneur-mixologist-author. After co-founding the Parisian landmark Le Chateaubriand, he launched the cult cocktail hotspot Cravan in the 16th arrondissement, known for its innovative drinks served in an art nouveau setting. Now, Cravan has expanded into a five-story haven within a 17th-century building, featuring—on the top floor—exposed timber beams, original stone fireplaces, and breathtaking views of the Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Guests can explore three themed cocktail bars, a Rizzoli bookstore, and an exclusive rooftop kiosk for summer movie screenings. A notable detail: 80 percent of the design incorporates reclaimed materials, including chair fabrics sourced from Nona-Source, an LVMH initiative repurposing scraps from luxury fashion houses. The two staircases—one vibrant red metal and the other classic wood—reflect the spirit of Arthur Cravan (1887–1918), the free-spirited poet, Dadaist, and boxer. His namesake bar aims to revitalize the area once celebrated as the heart of Parisian literary and artistic life.

The 11th arrondissement boasts some of the trendiest dining spots, with newcomer Eunoé shining brightly next to Square Gardette. Formerly at the Michelin-starred Nomicos, chef Ryuji Sato blends global culinary influences into his seasonal dishes (think Japanese-barbecued zucchini paired with Basque piperade, and signature beef tartare served in an ice cream cone). The three-course lunch menu offers excellent value at just €26.