In a Lesser-Known Region of Patagonia, Tourism is Aiding in the Preservation of the Wild Coast

Some parts of the world boast beauty that needs no introduction, captivating you instantly with breathtaking sights: turquoise waters, vast canyons, or majestic mountains destined for screensavers. Then there are places where beauty gradually reveals itself, where the land and sky's hues weave a more understated allure. Patagonia Azul falls into this latter category. At first, while driving along a monotonous road flanked by expansive estancias, you might not notice it. Yet, once you reach the heart of this UNESCO region in southern Chubut, Argentina, and climb a rugged hill overlooking sprawling, untouched bays, its magic begins to unfold.

Maria Mendizabal understands the feeling of enchantment. After moving here a few years back, she was captivated instantly. “The first time I arrived... I was unfamiliar with the coast,” she recalls. “We came here, and I found myself crying, truly, and then a whale leapt out. I thought, are you kidding me? That was my introduction to Patagonia Azul.”

Maria serves as a tourism development coordinator at Rewilding Argentina, a nonprofit established in 2010 dedicated to conserving four locations across the country—in Patagonia, two forested northern regions, and right here. This initiative is a branch of Tompkins Conservation, founded by Kris and the late Doug Tompkins (of Patagonia and North Face fame), and is still under Kris's leadership. Their extensive conservation efforts in South America, including the establishment of several national parks in Chile and Argentina, were recently highlighted in the National Geographic film Wild Life.

Rewilding Argentina selected this region, where the Patagonian steppe meets the Argentine Sea, for its latest project primarily due to its remarkable biodiversity. This area hosts a wealth of marine birds and mammals, including humpback whales and South American fur seals, alongside kelp forests and algae meadows. Notably, approximately 40 percent of the world’s Magellanic penguins inhabit a large colony at the Punta Tombo Natural Reserve.

Despite some level of protection—part of the area designated as the UNESCO Patagonia Azul Biosphere Reserve and part forming the Patagonia Austral Interjurisdictional Marine Coastal Park (PIMCPA)—the region faces threats from poaching, industrial fishing, and invasive species. Acronyms alone won't safeguard it. Most of the world, including many Argentinians, remain unaware of its existence. As Maria points out, “We have over 60 islands here, and Argentinians don’t even know about them.”

That’s why Rewilding Argentina has been active here since 2019, not only protecting the environment by restoring algae, monitoring seabirds, and removing invasive species but also promoting mindful tourism. The organization has been acquiring land, collaborating with government officials to safeguard that land, and establishing camping and glamping sites along with trails and activities to showcase the allure of Patagonia Azul to a broader audience. All of this is done in partnership with local communities, embodying what Sofia Heinonen, the organization’s executive director, calls “the economy of nature—in which nearby rural communities earn income through the restoration of complete and functional ecosystems.”

Experiencing rewilding firsthand

In October 2023, Maria and fellow members from Rewilding Argentina and Tompkins Conservation picked me up at Comodoro Rivadavia airport, just a couple of hours by plane south of Buenos Aires, for an adventure in Azul. This bespoke trip was organized by tour operator Journeys With Purpose, which arranges excursions to innovative conservation projects worldwide, led by the environmental leaders of those initiatives. Upcoming trips for 2024 will include destinations like Kenya, Palau, and Romania.

Over several days, fueled by generous servings of shared maté tea, they revealed how this delicate area is being safeguarded and thoughtfully introduced to the outside world. We hiked, toured campsites, ventured onto the ocean to explore nearby uninhabited islands, and visited various examples of their work throughout the region. While I stayed at the conservationists’ lodgings, future travelers might opt for glamping or accommodations in larger towns or cities.

On our first day, we joined Rewilding Argentina’s conservation coordinator, Lucas Beltramino—a professional diver, sailor, and biological science doctor—for a view from the ocean. Our small inflatable dinghy was the only vessel on the water that day. In fact, Lucas mentioned he could count the other boats he’s spotted in this area on two hands. Yet, we were far from isolated. While exploring the bays and cliffs north of Bahia Bustamente, we encountered massive sea lion colonies, glided beneath flocks of petrels, and observed rock cormorants resting on their rugged perches. Though we didn’t spot them, whales and dolphins are also plentiful here.

On Isla Leones, we disembarked and carefully navigated through tall grasses, passing numerous penguins concealed in the bushes until we reached an abandoned lighthouse. Lucas explained that British and French settlers occupied this area around a century ago, hunting sea lions and penguins for their oil. They also brought sheep to the mainland, which fostered a deep-rooted farming culture that contributed to the desertification of the Patagonian steppe, and they were among the whalers that troubled the region in the early 19th century.

While whaling is now relegated to history, fishing—mainly for hake and shrimp—still poses a significant threat to the region’s rich biodiversity. Maria recounted a time when a storm forced all the fishing boats to the port of Camarones, revealing their sheer numbers. She looked out at the lights of the boats as they waited for the storm to pass, describing the sight as “beautiful, but sad to see.”

We returned to Rewilding Argentina’s headquarters as the sun cast orange hues over the wispy clouds for an asado—an Argentine barbecue—cooked over an open flame. We savored steak and malbec, along with gin and tonics, bread topped with locally made pickled vegetables and seaweed, and a homemade flan for dessert. In a cozy dining room overlooking vast grassy plains at sunset, it was a warm and inviting gathering—exactly the kind of immersive experience that a Journeys With Purpose trip offers.

This experience also allowed me to delve deeper into the organization’s work, pose questions, and understand what rewilding means to those directly involved. Angeles Murgier, a former lawyer and member of the strategy and partnerships team, explained the four pillars of rewilding: protecting areas, restoring ecosystems, collaborating with communities, and fostering a restorative economy through tourism.

The challenges of safeguarding Patagonia Azul

The conversations carried on into the next morning when Diana Friedrich, the parks and communities coordinator, delivered a presentation detailing the efforts made in this area, alongside the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead. She spoke with passion about the conservation initiatives undertaken since her arrival five years ago.

Diana emphasized that the current designations for the region “hold no weight in Argentinian law.” Thus, the team combines hands-on conservation efforts—conducting wildlife surveys of species such as petrels and whales, and removing invasive species like rabbits, rats, armadillos, seaweed, and crabs—with advocacy work, infrastructure development, and collaboration with local landowners, government, and residents.

Intensive fishing and bottom trawling pose significant threats to the region’s biodiversity. Diana’s team intends to deploy remote cameras to capture images of the seafloor. “Fishermen claim it’s just mud, but that’s not true,” she stated. “The seafloor is teeming with various species—sponges, urchins, sea stars. It’s remarkable.” The fishing industry is deeply entrenched, and some fear that establishing a marine park could threaten jobs. “People believe we’ll harm the economy while they are actually destroying the ecosystem that supports it,” she added.

There are glimmers of optimism. Government representatives, including the tourism minister and the provincial governor, have visited and appear eager to establish protective legislation. Diana’s team aims to expand the parks, train new personnel, and engage the local community. “The most thrilling aspect for me is introducing the locals to this area,” she remarks. “This region lacks coastal access due to private ranches. Some of them have never laid eyes on these places.”

New tourism projects build from the ground up

At the core of all rewilding and advocacy efforts is a focus on tourism: a new Ruta Azul (“Blue Route”) designed to allow visitors to experience the area at a leisurely pace while enjoying activities like hiking, boating, kayaking, cycling, and more. The goal is for this nature-based economy to gradually replace the farming and trawling industries that currently sustain the region.

At Portal Isla Leones, the southern entry point to the region, we explored a new wilderness campsite designed for 30 people, nestled within a vast natural canyon of the steppe. Most of the facilities are nearly invisible, harmonizing beautifully with the tufts of grass scattered across the flat valley, which is framed by rugged rock formations. The site includes a small restroom building, an arrivals center staffed by local individuals employed by Rewilding Argentina, and a communal firepit, all surrounded by a network of trails, ensuring a remarkably low-impact footprint.

Staying here is free, and residents from nearby towns and cities are encouraged to come. Throughout the summer, free weekly events like bird-watching, yoga, and snorkeling are promoted on social media. The objective is to highlight the beauty—and worth—of the area, fostering community investment in its conservation and showing decision-makers that nature can be a valuable asset. During my visit, I encountered local fishermen and tourists from France, Germany, and Russia, as Maria described: people “who came here for nature and nobody.”

Closer to the coast, we visited the future location of a small glamping retreat that Rewilding Argentina is building. Wooden platforms indicated where half a dozen semi-permanent tents would provide comfortable accommodations with hot showers and paid activities in one of Maria’s favorite spots in the region. She felt somewhat conflicted about it; witnessing diggers and construction materials in this untouched and pristine area was difficult. However, they have since left, and the glamping sites (now operational) are low-impact and easily removable. Plus, visitors are generating income and job opportunities.

We ascended to another viewpoint on a rocky cliff overlooking the ocean, and once again, the sheer magnitude of this landscape took me by surprise. In every direction, there were no roads, buildings, or signs of human presence—just endless open spaces, punctuated only by the occasional group of guanacos frolicking in the distance.

Collaborating with Local Communities

Rewilding Argentina focuses on involving communities through direct employment, education, and entrepreneurship initiatives. It established the Ocean Club to connect children, young adults, and women with their coastal environment. Additionally, it collaborated with residents of the nearby fishing village of Camarones (population: around 1,000) to create a community garden centered on fresh, local produce. The Youth For Nature program encourages young people to launch tourism businesses, while the Festival of the Sea, now in its third year, celebrates the bond between the community and the ocean. Regular beach cleanups further foster this connection, aiming to instill a shared sense of ownership and appreciation for this captivating region.

I experienced much of this firsthand during my trip. I met Lautaro and Luqui at a newly built arrivals center, where visitors receive maps and are asked to sign a guest book. It was their first week on the job. Lautaro comes from a ranching background. On a hike, we stumbled upon a group of local children sketching beneath the broad canopy of a tree, another activity facilitated by Rewilding Argentina.

Our trip concluded with a Saturday night out in Camarones. This was nightlife, Patagonia Azul style. Coincidentally, it was the night before a general election, so alcohol was off-limits. The main bar was closed, and the restaurant we selected didn’t serve drinks. I ended up enjoying a fish curry with the team and sneaking out to the street for discreet sips of beer I had bought earlier from a local shop.

Despite the subdued atmosphere, the conversations were vibrant, and the evening was enjoyable. We touched on politics briefly, but most discussions centered on the exciting potential in the area. My brief days with the group left me with a strong sense of optimism. Invasive species are on the decline, while populations of threatened animals like the lesser rhea and guanacos are increasing. Newly planted native algae, which sequester carbon, are thriving and enduring. At Gateway Bahia Bustamente, once a sheep ranch, Rewilding Argentina has transformed it into an interpretation center where the sounds of shearers have vanished, allowing visitors to glimpse the region's natural beauty and understand the importance of its conservation.

While many travelers may still be drawn to the well-known, ice-capped Patagonia depicted in brochures or may fly over this region en route to Ushuaia and the popular Antarctic tourism, those who take a detour will find themselves richly rewarded—and likely just as enchanted as I was.

Visiting Information

Journeys With Purpose is organizing an eight-day trip to Rewilding Argentina’s project at Ibera National Park from September 29 to October 6, 2024. While this journey focuses on the forested northern regions, the company also provides customized journeys and can extend your visit with several days in the Patagonia Azul region—or even design an entire trip centered here.