Surprisingly Beautiful Blue Waters Await in This Emerging Destination

Nestled in the grass-covered desert surrounding Six Senses Southern Dunes in northwestern Saudi Arabia, I find a small folding table dressed in crisp white linen, where camels roam in the distance, and the only sound is the effervescent pop of sparkling water. On the table rests a barbecue platter so generous and succulent that it elicits a growl from my stomach, reminiscent of a well-timed sound effect. The feast includes grilled wagyu striploin, chicken kebabs, lamb chops, roasted potatoes, and grilled asparagus—a comical spread for just one person.

As I settle in with a napkin on my lap (with no one to judge), the sun begins to set behind the dunes, casting grapefruit hues across the sky. A few dedicated Six Senses staff have set up a personal tented camp—think of it as a mini Bedouin experience, complete with a Big Green Egg grill—to highlight the resort’s sunset dune dinner. Faced with the abundance of my outdoor feast, I invite the staff to join me for fresh juice, grilled meats, and cozy firepit chats; they graciously decline.

Thus unfolds my two-night stay at Six Senses Southern Dunes, one of the most remarkable hotels I’ve recently visited, yet also one of the most serene. (My April 2024 trip coincided with rising tensions between Iran and Israel, along with Eid, the holiday following Ramadan.) I find myself among a select few guests in the 76 stunning rooms, suites, and private pool villas, perhaps the only one making the most of its daily activity offerings—though nobody would blame me for staying cocooned in my one-bedroom pool villa, which boasts a deep soaking tub, a dreamy king-size bed, a spacious living room stocked with fresh fruit, mezze, and mock champagne, and loungers by the pool, all with sunset views over the dunes. On a clear day, guests can spot the glimmer of the Red Sea on the horizon.

Resisting the temptation to lounge around, I connect with the resort’s sustainability director, Emmy Nguyen, who is responsible for implementing conservation protocols and community outreach for all the new Six Senses hotels in the region. She thrives on challenges, teaching me how to transform recycled cooking oil into soap at the Earth Lab. Like other Six Senses resorts, this desert oasis emphasizes sustainability and wellness, offering a thoughtfully curated list of activities: sunrise nature walks, mountain hikes, aerial yoga, and workshops for making recycled paper. I'm excited to experience it all (along with the pool, spa, and gelato available anytime). Still, I long to share these moments with someone—anyone! Other travelers should feel the tranquility and peace of this dark-sky area; enjoy the warmth of its hosts; and savor the delicious saffron lattes and freshly made fattoush.

When did tourism begin in Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea region?

When the Six Senses Southern Dunes opened in November 2023, it became the first international resort in the developing Red Sea area on Saudi Arabia’s west coast, encompassing 10,800 square miles of inland desert, beachfront, and a chain of 90 islands earmarked for $20 billion in tourism investment by 2024. Developer Red Sea Global has an ambitious vision: by 2030, there will be 50 hotels, 8,000 guest rooms, and up to 1,000 residential units—all powered by renewable energy. “Less than 1 percent of the total site area will be developed, with 75 percent of the islands preserved for conservation,” according to Red Sea Global’s master plan.

This marks the first foray into tourism in this part of the country—a relatively new concept for Saudi Arabia, which opened its doors to international visitors in 2019. It's also intended as a pioneering model of regenerative tourism, aimed at fostering local biodiversity. After reading Nicola Chilton’s preview of the destination—situated on the “edge of the world’s fourth-largest barrier reef . . . featuring dormant volcanoes, mountain canyons, and rich cultural heritage”—I felt compelled to see it for myself. Though achieving this is easier said than done.

How can travelers reach the coastal region of Saudi Arabia's Red Sea?

The Red Sea International Airport (RSI), crafted by British architects Foster + Partners, opened its doors in September 2023, welcoming its first inbound flight from Riyadh, just two hours away. This marked the start of bi-weekly flights on Thursdays and Saturdays, linking the world to the Red Sea and the nearby Amaala, a wellness destination set for phase-one completion in 2025, within the Prince Mohammed bin Salman Nature Reserve. For regional visitors, connections through Riyadh or coastal Jeddah are simple; U.S. travelers often connect through Dubai, which has also begun twice-weekly flights to RSI.

You can follow my journey: Depart from John F. Kennedy International Airport in New York City to Doha, Qatar, spending the night (stay at the Fairmont Doha if possible), then take a two-hour flight to AlUla International Airport, a well-established desert gateway for those visiting Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s sister city to Petra, Jordan. Spend a few days exploring (don’t miss the new Dar Tantora eco-stay and Sharaan Nature Reserve), then hire a driver through tour operator The Traveling Panther for a four-hour journey west to Six Senses. Relax for a few days, then drive 45 minutes to the coast, board a boat, and enjoy an hour of exhilarating travel across the deep blue sea to the first island resorts, St. Regis Red Sea Resort and Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve. For those wishing to splurge, a quicker coast-to-island transfer is available via the Fly Red Sea seaplane, another first in the kingdom.

What earns the Ummahat archipelago the nickname “mini Maldives?”

Upon arrival, it's clear why this area is often referred to as a “mini Maldives.” Nujuma and St. Regis are located on private islands just a five-minute boat ride apart, featuring cocoon-like overwater bungalows and pool villas that offer the ultimate luxury: seclusion. Both are five-star Marriott resorts, with St. Regis catering more to families and Nujuma tailored for couples, although soon travelers will have a plethora of options to select from. Nearby Shura Island is set to debut 11 hotels, including a Four Seasons and a Rosewood, in the coming year.

However, the comparison to the Maldives isn't entirely accurate: The Indian Ocean islands are situated in the equatorial region, while the Red Sea is among the northernmost tropical seas, boasting hyper-saline, cobalt-blue waters teeming with 1,200 species of fish and 200 varieties of soft and hard coral. These are genuine desert islands. Apart from a few existing mangroves, new vegetation has been planted, including palm trees and aloe. Triggerfish dart along the coast as turtles and dolphins swim around the outer reef, accessible by boat. It's an under-visited snorkeling and scuba diving location that attracts enthusiasts like resort manager Andrea Colla; when he's not ensuring every detail at St. Regis and Nujuma is perfect, he’s exploring the underwater world.

This unique adventure is what attracted Tony Coveney, the Dubliner and multi-property general manager, who previously oversaw the Four Seasons in Riyadh and flagship Ritz-Carltons in Moscow and Astana, Kazakhstan. Both guests and staff are pioneers, drawn to the Red Sea locale for its challenges as much as its breathtaking scenery. The team comprises 42 nationalities, with 40 percent being Saudi. Over 100 employees have graduated from a two-year hospitality training program established by Red Sea Global. Their professionalism creates an impressive first impression; the standard is set remarkably high. With beaming smiles, the staff caters to German influencers, Western European couples and families, as well as Saudi royalty during my stay at the St. Regis. Guests can indulge in the omakase menu at the Japanese restaurant or enjoy a couple's massage at the pristine spa—activities we often take for granted, yet are completely new experiences in Saudi Arabia.

Western travelers often enjoy a privileged existence, possessing passports that grant access to hundreds of countries—now including Saudi Arabia. Visiting simply because you can? may not be the most compelling reason. However, to discover something new within yourself—a deeper appreciation for the local flora, fauna, and culture, beyond what you read in the news? That feels like a valuable escape from the ordinary.