This Hidden Gem of a Colorado Ski Resort Features Après Hot Spring Pools — and Lift Tickets for $9

It felt like Facebook was reading my mind. (And, of course, it was.)

Just two days prior to my ski getaway to Purgatory Resort in Durango, Colorado, a suggested post appeared in my feed: a vintage photo of the resort's pricing from 1965, the year it first opened.

Back in the day, an adult lift ticket cost just $4.50 per day, about the same as a latte today. While that sounds affordable, it's even less surprising when you discover that Purgatory's starting lift ticket price now is $9. 

I was drawn to Purgatory in January 2024 by its unbelievably low lift ticket prices, along with a group of friends eager for deals. The mountain's new variable pricing, which was introduced in August 2023, increases with demand — so booking early saves you money. 

During my visit in January, lift tickets were not at $9; however, they were below $60 for a day — and that was for the last-minute weekend rate.

If you're worried about the quality of skiing, think again. Purgatory, affectionately known as "Purg" by the locals, boasts 11 lifts, 107 named trails, and several terrain parks, covering 1,600 acres of skiable terrain. It offers fantastic tree skiing and a fun, roller-coaster-like experience that is thrilling and sometimes just the right amount of challenging. 

The resort's name, suggesting a place of suffering inhabited by souls seeking redemption (according to Catholic teachings), may sound unappealing at first. However, it instills a sense of pride among locals who advocated for its return after the mountain was rebranded as "Durango Mountain Resort" during a contentious 15-year period.

Theresa Graven, a Durango resident for 16 years and owner of the public relations firm Treehouse Communications, remarked, "If there’s one thing Durango cherishes more than its unique independence, it’s its access to nature." It’s clear that one of Durango’s largest natural playgrounds is thriving once again. Proudly independently owned, Purgatory is family-friendly (kids 12 and under ski for free) and free from the Epic and Ikon crowds. Plus, a natural hot spring is just down the road.

Get ready, folks — this mountain has character.

Best Time to Visit

The mountain typically welcomes visitors from mid-November through the end of April, depending on weather conditions. The skiing is usually at its best between January and March. Like most ski areas, it sees a surge of visitors during holidays and weekends. If you come during the week, you’ll encounter fewer crowds and lower prices (and sometimes even a $20 resort credit — more details under “Tickets”).

Accommodations 

Purgatory is located just 30 minutes from Durango, Colorado, the nearest town. You have two choices: either stay at the ski area base in the village, where you’ll find mostly condos and home rentals, or stay in Durango and commute to Purgatory for skiing. Staying at the base offers easier ski access, while Durango is better if you’re looking to explore beyond the slopes. 

Purgatory Lodge, at the base of Purgatory: During my January 2024 visit, I chose to stay at Purgatory Lodge. Situated right at the base of the ski area, it provides access to the Durango Mountain Club, which offers complimentary breakfast, ski lockers, and a back entrance leading directly to the mountain base. With five in our ski group, the lodge's multiple bedrooms and fully equipped kitchen were ideal. Additional amenities include a heated swimming pool, hot tub, fitness center, and heated garage parking.

Almost Heaven Home Rental, at the base of Purgatory: If you're traveling with a large group, consider 23 Power Ridge in the Purgatory village. You’ll have access to an entire multi-level home featuring a three-car garage, private hot tub, and an outdoor gas fireplace. The property includes five bedrooms and five bathrooms, comfortably accommodating up to 10 guests.

Strater Hotel, in downtown Durango: Located in the heart of downtown Durango, the Strater Hotel is a historic landmark with just 88 guest rooms adorned in Victorian style. It's conveniently situated near the starting point of the renowned Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad and only a few blocks away from the city’s top bars and restaurants. Be sure to stop by The Office inside the Strater for a cocktail.

Dining Options

Since Purgatory is only 30 minutes from downtown Durango, you can choose to dine on the mountain, back in town, or along the way. Here are a few top picks for all three options. 

Backside Bistro, on-mountain at Purgatory: For the best dining experience on the mountain, head to the upper level of Dante's Lodge, located mid-mountain. The Backside Bistro boasts large picture windows with stunning views of the San Juan Mountains (situated at over 10,000 feet). Graven notes that "European alpine classics like Wiener Schnitzel, Parisian Steak Frites, and French Onion Soup are paired with an exclusively European wine list." Reservations are recommended, but if you're unable to secure a spot, the cafeteria on the lower level is also available.

James Ranch Grill, between Purgatory and Durango Hot Springs: You can find James Ranch meat and cheese in various eateries and shops throughout town, but nothing beats dining right where the meat is raised and cheese crafted. With farm-to-table dishes that don’t have to travel far, you can enjoy exceptional food in an authentic setting.

Mountain High food truck, at Durango Hot Springs: After a day of skiing, if you decide to unwind with a soak at Durango Hot Springs Resort & Spa (a fantastic choice), make sure to sample the offerings from the Mountain High food truck. During my visit, I enjoyed a delicious variety of falafels, lamb sausage, and James Ranch cheese. The food strikes a balance between elevated and casual, providing everything you need to recharge after your soak.

Sage Fresh Eats, downtown Durango: Graven describes Sage Fresh Eats as "healthy, casual, and affordable," highlighting their commitment to using "locally sourced ingredients" for their fresh offerings, which include meat-based or vegetarian soups, salads, sandwiches, and grain bowls. The only contender that might rival Sage Fresh Eats is its sister restaurant, Zia Taqueria.

Eolus, downtown Durango: According to Graven, "When we desire something exceptional, we head to Eolus downtown." They offer a wonderful selection of meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes, along with superb sushi. Graven insists, "The sushi rolls are the best in town, without a doubt; it reflects the effort they put into sourcing fresh ingredients and their professional preparation."

Where to Après Ski

Purgy's Slopeside Restaurant, base of Purgatory: Purgy's is the go-to spot where everyone gathers — albeit unofficially — to share their day's adventures over drinks. "At the resort, it’s all about Purgy's and live music on the beach; locals and visitors gather around the firepit," says Graven, who refers to it as your "Classic après."

The Nugget, between Purgatory and Durango: During my visit, we made a special trip to The Nugget, known for its vibrant atmosphere and eclectic clientele. It certainly lived up to its reputation. If you're in the mood for socializing, the bar is the place to be. The cozy upstairs area is perfect for reminiscing about the day and catching up with friends. 

Durango Hot Springs Resort & Spa, between Purgatory and Durango: If you’re wise, you’ll unwind with a soak at Durango Hot Springs, which features 41 pools situated above a natural hot water aquifer. During my January visit, I spent three delightful hours exploring the terraced pools. The sulfur-free water is rich in 19 minerals that aid recovery for your ski legs and leave your skin feeling smooth. For a post-ski treat, you can enjoy a cocktail at the onsite bar or grab something from the food truck court. A new Zen garden, private club, and additional food truck options are on the way following a recent multi-million dollar renovation. Just remember to reserve your soaking spot in advance.

Ska Brewing, downtown Durango: Graven mentions that Durango boasts six breweries, but if you can only visit one, make it Ska Brewing. It’s considered one of Colorado's finest, featuring a top-notch tasting room and an outdoor beer garden. Inside, you’ll find the brews that established their reputation, alongside seasonal offerings and hard seltzers. If the weather permits, snag a table in the outdoor beer garden.

Bookcase & Barber, downtown Durango: A favorite spot of Graven’s is a speakeasy hidden behind a bookcase in a barber shop. The cleverly named Bookcase & Barber requires a password for entry (which you can find online) and boasts a literary theme. She emphasizes that "they create remarkable cocktails that change with the seasons."

Off-Mountain Activities 

Durango Nordic Center, across from Purgatory: If downhill skiing isn’t your thing, head over to the Durango Nordic Center located just across the highway. With over 14 miles of Nordic ski trails and three miles set aside for snowshoers, there’s plenty to explore. A day pass costs $16 for skiers and $8 for snowshoers. If it’s your first time or you need to rent equipment, you can request everything online.

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, downtown Durango: A ride on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is a must-do, no matter the season. In winter, the narrow gauge steam train departs from the downtown Durango depot, heading toward Cascade Canyon in the San Juan National Forest. "Along the journey, guests are treated to breathtaking views of the snow-laden San Juan Mountains while relaxing in heated coaches," notes Graven. "The train stops for 60 minutes at Cascade Canyon, an ideal spot for a fireside lunch, photo ops, or a stroll along the Animas River before returning downtown."

Chapman Hill, Durango: In addition to Purgatory, Durango features a small, in-town ski area complete with a snow tubing hill and an ice rink. Chapman Hill has been serving the community for over 70 years and is managed by the city. Beyond tubing and skating, this family-friendly winter sports destination offers "two rope tows, a bumps course, and kid-friendly park features," according to Graven.

The Powerhouse, Durango: This science center is uniquely situated in an old hydroelectric power plant. The Powerhouse is perfect for a day off from skiing, featuring "interactive exhibits and displays that engage visitors in hands-on learning, making science enjoyable and accessible for all ages," as Graven describes.

How to Ride 

Tickets: Purgatory is among the few ski resorts in the U.S. where purchasing a single or multi-day lift ticket is quite affordable. Their variable pricing system rewards early purchasers with better rates. As ticket sales increase for a particular day, prices rise, meaning higher costs will align with busier days on the slopes.

To encourage skiing on less crowded days, Purgatory has introduced “The Fun Fund,” offering a $20 per person, per day resort credit for skiers who purchase lift tickets on select days throughout the season. This credit can also be used for future lift tickets, so with some planning, you might secure a free skiing day. Just remember to buy tickets 24 hours in advance to qualify.

Purgatory is part of the Power Pass, an economical multi-mountain pass that includes resorts such as Arizona Snowbowl, Brian Head Resort, and Willamette Pass Resort. Additionally, kids aged 12 and under can ski for free at Purg.

Rentals: You can rent ski and snowboard gear from Purgatory Rentals, which provides convenient slopeside pick-up and drop-off. The basic ski and snowboard package starts at $45 per day.

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

Purgatory boasts 11 lifts and 107 trails spread across 1,600 acres of skiable land. The frontside is home to most of the green runs, while intermediate, blue-run skiers can easily access any lift on the mountain. For those seeking a challenge, Purg offers numerous single and double-black diamond runs, particularly some of the finest located on the mountain's backside.

Ski School: Purgatory is a welcoming mountain for families, featuring an excellent ski school with programs tailored for skiers aged 4 to 104. They provide private lessons, multi-week courses for both kids and adults, and a highly regarded adaptive ski and snowboard school. For children under 4, there’s a full-day childcare program called “The Den.”

First Tracks Brunch: If you desire to have the slopes to yourself — especially for first turns on a powder day — you can reserve their new First Tracks Brunch for an additional $39 on top of your lift ticket. This gives you access to the mountain before it opens to the public, followed by a plated brunch accompanied by Champagne.