This Historic Trading Hub in the UAE Is a Must-Visit for Today's Travelers

When you picture the United Arab Emirates, images of endless deserts, Dubai’s towering buildings, and a luxurious lifestyle likely come to mind. However, in the eastern part of the country, near the Omani border and just 90 minutes by car from Abu Dhabi, lies a surprisingly tranquil destination.

The oasis city of Al Ain may not be on most visitors’ itineraries, but it hasn’t always been overlooked. Once a vital stop along ancient trade routes through the Arabian Peninsula, Al Ain’s fertile oases and plentiful water offered much-needed respite to travelers making arduous journeys by camel across the harsh deserts. Archaeological evidence suggests that trade caravans have navigated this area since 1300 B.C.E., during the Iron Age.

Today, these oases remain, with the modern city evolving around them. Brimming with working farms that feature approximately 147,000 date palms and numerous other fruit trees, Al Ain’s six oases showcase a lifestyle that predates the rapid urban expansion seen in other cities across the nation. While they may not resemble the idyllic scenes of palm-fringed pools appearing like mirages in the dunes, these oases are vast, organized date palm farms separated by stone pathways and walls, with flowing water channels weaving through. Look up and you’ll likely see farmers climbing barefoot to harvest dates, using ropes and thick belts for support—methods unchanged for centuries.

The best way to discover this area is by renting a bike from the station at the entrance of the main Al Ain oasis. It’s an effortless ride along sun-dappled stone pathways beneath the palm fronds, with the air filled with the cheerful chirping of birds that call this lush landscape home. When you need to relax, cycle over to the charming Ethr café, an oasis within the oasis, adorned with blooming plants and flowing drapes, offering dates, sandalwood tea, and a slice of saffron milk cake.

The oases' farms rely on the ancient falaj irrigation system, a brilliant network of underground and surface channels that has been in use for 3,000 years. Yet, the history here stretches back even further, with archaeological evidence revealing human habitation in Al Ain dating back to Neolithic times, around 8,000 years ago.

One of the finest places to experience Al Ain’s ancient history—and an excellent spot for an overnight stay—is the Jebel Hafit Desert Park. Situated at the base of Abu Dhabi’s only mountain, Jebel Hafit, and just 20 minutes from the city center, this five-mile stretch of sandy terrain, scattered with thorny acacia trees, is home to over 500 Bronze Age tombs that date back 5,000 years. Known as 'beehive' tombs for their conical shapes, some have been meticulously restored to their original state, while others remain mere piles of stones, guarding their mysteries. Within the park, you can find Pura Jebel Hafit’s transparent dome tents for overnight accommodations, each featuring its own bathroom and firepit. Bring along your barbecue supplies and firewood to enjoy dinner beneath the stars. In the morning, set off on a leisurely hike to the tombs, where you’re likely to find the entire site to yourself. An overnight stay with breakfast starts at 1,024 AED (approximately US$280) and includes access to the tombs.

Al Ain has been traversed not just by ancient travelers crossing the Arabian Peninsula. In the 1940s, English explorer Sir Wilfred Thesiger and his Bedouin guides paused in Al Ain during their challenging camel expeditions across the vast Rub’ al-Khali Empty Quarter desert. He undertook this journey twice, documenting his adventures in the book Arabian Sands. A permanent exhibition of captivating photographs taken by Thesiger during his travels is displayed in a gallery at Al Ain’s Al Jahili Fort, a striking mud-brick structure with crenellated walls and circular watchtowers dating back to the 1890s.

Historically, Al Ain served as a resting place for weary travelers. Although the city lacks the high-end dining options found in Abu Dhabi or Dubai, there are still numerous spots to replenish your energy. For authentic Emirati cuisine, visit Al Fanar, part of a small chain across the UAE known for its delicious local dishes. Don’t be deterred by this branch’s rather dull location next to the convention center—the food consistently impresses. Inside, you’ll find a nostalgic ambiance with traditional architectural elements, including columns, arches, and wooden mashrabiya screens surrounding a central courtyard. Appetizers feature tasty salads like Salat Hamba Wa Jarjeer, combining zesty rocket leaves and tangy green mango, while seafood starters include Hobool, which is deep-fried fish roe. The main courses highlight substantial Emirati sharing platters, many influenced by neighboring countries and historical trading partners. The biryanis here are fluffy rice dishes topped with seafood, mutton, or chicken, while the machboos features yellow rice cooked in stock, enhanced with dried lemon and Arabian spices for extra flavor.

More nostalgia can be found at Bait Mohammed bin Khalifa. Established in 1958 and once a hub of the community, this pastel-colored house reopened as a cultural center in 2022 after extensive renovations. It features exhibits on the building’s restoration and Al Ain’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, along with spaces for the creative community and an onsite café. The structure offers insights into a significant transitional period in the UAE, marked by the discovery of oil in Abu Dhabi in 1958, which spurred economic growth and urbanization. Its hybrid construction style showcases a blend of ‘new’ materials like concrete, steel, and aluminum, combined with a traditional layout featuring a central courtyard, communal areas, and private family quarters. While the colors may seem like products of trendy urban design, they are authentic. During restoration, conservators uncovered the original hues by scraping away layers of paint, revealing soft blues, greens, and salmon pinks that were popular at the time.

However, nostalgia isn’t the only reason to visit Al Ain. For those seeking an adrenaline rush, you can take on the Middle East’s first man-made white-water rafting channels or ride the artificial waves at the Al Ain Adventure water park. The journey up the 4,000-foot Jebel Hafit mountain provides stunning views of the deserts and Oman. Be sure to glance up as well as down—you might catch sight of rare Egyptian vultures soaring on thermals, as Jebel Hafit is their sole habitat in the country. At the mountain’s edge, the Mercure Grand hotel is an excellent spot to enjoy the sunset as the desert sky transforms into hues of pink and orange, while city lights begin to twinkle.

Ancient travelers recognized that Al Ain was a unique destination. For those wishing to experience a different pace of life in the UAE, it remains just as special today.