This New Midcentury Modern Desert Retreat in Joshua Tree Makes for an Ideal Winter Escape

I find myself inching through heavy traffic on the 91 freeway, heading to Joshua Tree on a warm Southern Californian October day, having made the rookie mistake of leaving the city on a Friday around noon. To be fair, I've been a Los Angeles resident for just five years, and this marks my first trip to the iconic desert getaway nearly 150 miles away. As I pass the time singing along to classic tunes, the surroundings gradually shift from crowded strip malls and highway exits to expansive landscapes adorned with windmills. About 130 miles in, the signature spindly Joshua trees come into view, and the chaos of L.A. begins to fade away.

The eccentric Mojave desert town of Joshua Tree, with a population of 8,000, is renowned for offering visitors a glimpse into New Age philosophies, showcasing midcentury modern architecture, and reveling in the surreal beauty of its stark, Joshua tree-studded terrain. I'm eager to experience all three during my weekend visit.

My destination is The Bungalows, a newly renovated midcentury modern hotel featuring 14 suites spread across three buildings, operated by Homestead Modern, a short-term rental company that launched into the hotel sector with this flagship establishment. Opened in June 2022, The Bungalows is situated within the expansive 130-acre grounds of the Joshua Tree Retreat Center, also known as the Institute of Mentalphysics, a spiritual hub rooted in East Asian philosophy since 1946, focused on enhancing physical and mental wellness. All structures on the property were designed by Southern Californian architect Lloyd Wright, son of the renowned Frank Lloyd Wright, and the retreat boasts the largest collection of Lloyd Wright buildings in the world.

After winding my way through the rugged Little San Bernardino Mountains, I finally reach the quiet town of Yucca Valley on the outskirts of Joshua Tree, where the hotel is situated. The original buildings were built in 1960 by midcentury modern architect Harold Zook, celebrated for his unique homes in the Midwest and Los Angeles. The Bungalows retains its motor lodge charm, allowing me to park right in front of my suite. This no-contact hotel doesn’t have a traditional front desk—guests check in a few weeks prior and receive instructions for their room's smart locks four hours before arrival. However, Bungalow staff are just a text or call away for any needs.

As I step through the front door, I'm greeted by a room awash in the warm glow of sunset, featuring timeless midcentury elements: sleek concrete floors, expansive sliding glass doors that enhance the indoor/outdoor flow typical of midcentury design, and the striking post-and-beam ceilings original to Zook's vision. Each suite is equipped with modern comforts like air-conditioning, a cozy bed, and high-speed internet. I'm particularly thrilled to find a kitchenette complete with a full-size fridge, stove, microwave, and all necessary utensils—envisioning meals enjoyed on the suite's spacious outdoor patio. One notable absence? A television—thankfully.

After unpacking, I stroll around the grounds adorned with cheerful Buddhas and flourishing desert plants, realizing one might not even need to leave the Joshua Tree Retreat Center to fully embrace the experience. The property borders the Mojave Desert Land Trust, and several hiking trails and meditation paths meander through the Joshua tree-dotted landscape, offering views akin to those in the park, mirroring what I see from my room.

I stroll past rows of midcentury modern cottages where both guests and Mentalphysics practitioners reside. I come across the Sanctuary, designed by Lloyd Wright, the largest meeting space on the property at 5,000 square feet. It showcases his signature style, featuring whimsical shapes (the building is charmingly octagonal) and a dramatic silhouette topped with an almost-skyscraper-like steeple. A sign promotes the retreat's wellness offerings, such as yoga and meditation classes that the Institute regularly hosts and Bungalow guests are welcome to attend.

As I continue along the whimsically named “Silk Road,” the path that runs through the property, I encounter the Food for Thought Café, which offers vegan options for breakfast and lunch from Thursday to Monday. While the veggie burgers and mushroom curry bowl sound appealing, I’m craving something heartier and plan to eat at the nearby music venue/ex-biker bar, Pappy and Harriet’s. I follow the Silk Road until I reach the pool and hot tub (which may be a bit retro, but there are plans for upgrades) and make a mental note to come back for a refreshing dip after my hike.

The following morning, I woke up early and drove 15 minutes to the entrance of the vast 800,000-acre Joshua Tree National Park. While a shuttle serves the popular northern section of the park, having a car is beneficial for exploring the lesser-known entrances. Unlike many large national parks, Joshua Tree offers a variety of short hikes, most under a mile, allowing visitors to experience diverse landscapes, from flat valleys to rugged mountains. I choose the well-known Heart Rock Trail, a one-mile round-trip leading to a heart-shaped rock, but find tranquility on the quieter one-mile Ryan Ranch Trail. Just as I'm about to start the nearby Ryan Mountain Trail, ominous gray clouds gather, bringing a chilling front that sweeps in with a dramatic whoosh. As cold raindrops hit my skin and thunder rumbles, I rush back to my car for shelter.

For the remainder of the afternoon, I relax in my suite, listening to Billie Holiday to enhance the midcentury ambiance, watching the heavy raindrops cascade off the sliding glass doors and inhaling the earthy petrichor that follows the downpour. The beauty of rain in the desert? The night sky shines with clarity once the dust has settled. With a glass of rosé in hand, I revel in the muted glow of the Milky Way, watching satellites traverse the sky as I cherish these final moments of serene stillness before returning to city life in the morning.